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Winemaker
Apr 6, 2013, 3:34 PM
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Hi everyone, Newbie older climber wannabe here with my first post. I've been lurking for a while and want to thank all of you who post some great information and useful suggestions. I started climbing top rope at the Columns outside Tieton, Wa last year and really enjoyed it. Unfortunately last August I slipped on rock descending from Camp Muir and severed my left quad tendon. Surgery and rehab have gotten me back to abut 70% on the leg. I've been climbing indoors with my daughter for the last two months and this has really helped mobility (and provided a lot of fun). Last weekend I lead my first bolted route at Frenchman Coulee. I was amazed how leading versus top roping changed my perspective and increased the difficulty. The relief when I clipped the second bolt was pretty great, as the reality of a potential ground fall didn't sink in until it was possible. Certainly I knew intellectually the potential consequences, but real life is different than imagination. Rigging the top rope anchor was also a concentrating experience, as I was fully aware of the consequences of error. I certainly checked everything multiple times but loading the rope, even while still clipped in, was sobering. I had a blast and look forward to improving both physically and intellectually and thanks again for all the great posts.
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dagibbs
Apr 6, 2013, 10:56 PM
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Welcome to the world of climbing! Leading certainly is a different head-game, isn't it?
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marc801
Apr 7, 2013, 12:12 AM
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Winemaker wrote: Hi everyone, Newbie older climber wannabe here with my first post. I've been lurking for a while and want to thank all of you who post some great information and useful suggestions. I started climbing top rope at the Columns outside Tieton, Wa last year and really enjoyed it. Unfortunately last August I slipped on rock descending from Camp Muir and severed my left quad tendon. Surgery and rehab have gotten me back to abut 70% on the leg. I've been climbing indoors with my daughter for the last two months and this has really helped mobility (and provided a lot of fun). Last weekend I lead my first bolted route at Frenchman Coulee. I was amazed how leading versus top roping changed my perspective and increased the difficulty. The relief when I clipped the second bolt was pretty great, as the reality of a potential ground fall didn't sink in until it was possible. Certainly I knew intellectually the potential consequences, but real life is different than imagination. Rigging the top rope anchor was also a concentrating experience, as I was fully aware of the consequences of error. I certainly checked everything multiple times but loading the rope, even while still clipped in, was sobering. I had a blast and look forward to improving both physically and intellectually and thanks again for all the great posts. Since this is the free-for-all that is rc.com, you're gonna get smacked upside the head at some point so.... From: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread:
epoch wrote: NEW FOLKS… We are a dynamic community and some of the regulars have been around since the inception of rockclimbing.com. There are lots of covered topics so if you try to jump right in and start new threads, it will make everyone sad. Try responding to someone else's thread first, rather than starting your own. Please do not, make a "hello" post or thread. On a slow day 10 people may join the forums, on a busy day it may be 100. It's not a special occasion when somebody joins. So when you start a "hi everybody I'm new here!" thread it's like you think you're the Queen of Sheba or something. You’re inviting the lurkers to come out and toss you up a bit. {see above remark} So unless you are familiar with forum boards and can stand a bit of flaming right off, it would be better to just respond to a thread rather than start your own. Don't take it too seriously when someone calls you a "n00b", and accept that other users ask you to make a forum search before asking some over debated topics. So gee, welcome and all, but we just don't care that much about you at the moment.
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6pacfershur
Apr 7, 2013, 12:37 AM
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marc801 wrote: So gee, welcome and all, but we just don't care that much about you at the moment. "we"? .... speak for yourself asshole
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marc801
Apr 7, 2013, 1:59 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: marc801 wrote: So gee, welcome and all, but we just don't care that much about you at the moment. "we"? .... speak for yourself asshole See what I mean? Oh, we don't care about you, either.
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Winemaker
Apr 7, 2013, 2:47 PM
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Hey, thanks for that! It felt good. Please sir, may I have another? My question was implicit in my post, and that was addressing the transition from top roping to lead climbing. A more useful reply might have been some analysis or advice re leading. But I guess I won't be able to ask a question that hasn't already been answered so I should shut up.
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notapplicable
Apr 7, 2013, 6:13 PM
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marc801 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: marc801 wrote: So gee, welcome and all, but we just don't care that much about you at the moment. "we"? .... speak for yourself asshole See what I mean? Oh, we don't care about you, either. Neither of you sub-10K wankers are even a blip on the radar.
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notapplicable
Apr 7, 2013, 6:26 PM
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Volumes have been written on the subject of transitioning from TRing to leading and overcoming the mental obstacles involved. Both online and in softback. Some favor mock leading (going thru the motions of leading while still on top rope), some think practice falls do the trick, people also say visualization prior to the climb works. Maybe one or more will work for you. There is an entire subform on here called "Mental Training: The Rock Warrior's Way". Go there and do some reading. Maybe pick up one or two of the books referenced. Leading comes harder too some than it does others but the rewards are worth it. Good luck dude.
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marc801
Apr 7, 2013, 6:27 PM
Post #9 of 16
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Winemaker wrote: My question was implicit in my post, and that was addressing the transition from top roping to lead climbing. A more useful reply might have been some analysis or advice re leading. Who's going to bother reading a question in a "Hey, look at me I'm new here and an attention whore" post? Who's going to bother reading any of that post?
Winemaker wrote: But I guess I won't be able to ask a question that hasn't already been answered so I should shut up. Oh grow some thicker skin already and quitch yer whining.
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marc801
Apr 7, 2013, 6:28 PM
Post #10 of 16
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notapplicable wrote: Neither of you sub-10K wankers are even a blip on the radar. Hey! That's Mr. Wanker to you!
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curt
Apr 7, 2013, 7:32 PM
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Winemaker wrote: Hi everyone, Newbie older climber wannabe here with my first post. I've been lurking for a while and want to thank all of you who post some great information and useful suggestions... ...Last weekend I lead my first bolted route at Frenchman Coulee... I guess my only suggestion would be to gain your initial lead climbing experience at someplace where the hand and foot holds are somewhat less portable. Curt
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Syd
Apr 7, 2013, 8:19 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
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Hi Winemaker. How on Earth did your accident happen on top rope ? I found this description "The tendon rupture is therefore probably not the result of the fall but of maximum quadriceps contraction with the fall being the result of a rupture." ... which I can't really picture.
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Winemaker
Apr 7, 2013, 9:59 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Apr 6, 2013
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A poor phrasing on my part. My tendon rupture didn't happen while top roped but rather while descending from a daytrip to Camp Muir on Rainier. I was descending quickly and slipped on sandy rock. My left foot caught on the rock as I fell down about two feet, folding my leg under me and I landed on it with full body weight. Climbing has been a great help with rehad, as it has aided in getting some flexibility back after surgery, as well as strengthening muscles.
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Syd
Apr 7, 2013, 10:23 PM
Post #14 of 16
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Rapping too fast on an abseil ?
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Winemaker
Apr 7, 2013, 10:59 PM
Post #15 of 16
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Sorry, I'm not being clear enough. Alpine descent on foot, not on rope.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 8, 2013, 3:47 PM
Post #16 of 16
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Winemaker wrote: Sorry, I'm not being clear enough. Alpine descent on foot, not on rope. I understood the first time through, so not you.
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