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dupree
Mar 20, 2002, 4:57 PM
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Can anyone offer us newbies some tips on how to handle overhanging routes with a little less flailing? (I ask mainly for bouldering in the gym).
[ This Message was edited by: dupree on 2002-03-20 08:58 ]
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tofattoclimb
Mar 20, 2002, 5:08 PM
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tip from one newbie to another Use you feet a hell of a lot more. get good hand holds then walk your feet up then move your hands again. works on a lot of stuff, works for me theres not a lot of sence hanging like a chimp by arms alone it doesnt work hope this helps, tofattoclimb
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howitzer
Mar 20, 2002, 5:33 PM
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I know when I started out about 6 years back, I worked a lot on technique and balance and strength before I got into doing big overhangs. It depends on quite a bit - how hard is the climb you are working on? If you're new and you're trying for a 5.10 that has an overhang, you may want to step back for a minute and go down a few grades! Start small, with little ledges to get over and build up. Overhangs take a lot more arm stength than other parts of climbing -I still have big trouble with them most days! The key is also to keep your hips INTO the wall. If you're trying to get over something with you a@# sticking out in the wind, gravity will most certainly pull you off. The easiest way is the 'twist' method. As you come under the overhang, twist your hips into the wall as you reach up and over to keep your body in. As you come over, get your feet up, or on a good hold underneath. It's still tough no matter what! Take it slow and have fun with it - don't let it get you down. Hope this helps a little!
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maculated
Mar 20, 2002, 5:37 PM
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Two words: Twist lock-offs.
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paintinhaler
Mar 20, 2002, 6:03 PM
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Footwork and keep your belly botton close to the rock. It will put more wight on your feet. Keep your belly botton away from the rock, will put more wight on your arms and hands.
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rrrADAM
Mar 20, 2002, 6:24 PM
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Use your feet in a way that allows you to keep you hips closer to the wall. i.e. Drop Knees, Twist Locks, Toe/Heel Hooks, Flagging, etc...
And use your feet to drive you up, instead of pulling with your hands.
rrrADAM
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jdean
Mar 20, 2002, 7:44 PM
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Heel hook, heel hook, heel hook...that's what I try to do anyway. I just try to throw a heel up on a ledge and reach with that same arm.
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miagi
Mar 20, 2002, 9:06 PM
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Working and training your back and stomach is also a good idea. On overhands i find that i use my stomach and back muscles alot more than on verticle climbs. I also use my biceps alot too.
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treyr
Mar 20, 2002, 9:41 PM
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Always keep your feet on!!!!!!!!
Trob
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kaptk
Mar 21, 2002, 7:30 AM
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I ditto the twisting of your hips and always keeping your feet on.
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crux_clipper
Mar 21, 2002, 10:56 AM
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Don't try to hold on with your muscles, dead hang from your arms. They will last a lot longer.
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case22
Mar 21, 2002, 1:56 PM
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Abs are also very important. Try to stay close to the wall/rock by using your abs, not your arms. And when you're climbing, keep your arms straight out, not bent, because that just wastes energy. And just like the other said, feet, feet, feet! Make sure you keep them on the wall!
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beyond_gravity
Mar 21, 2002, 4:04 PM
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people allways say hang from a stright arm. I dont get it though, my forarms allways die before my tricepts do.
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rrrADAM
Mar 21, 2002, 4:22 PM
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BG... Triceps are for pushing, as in a mantle, where as biceps are for pulling. So unless you are mantling, you are using your biceps my friend.
rrrADAM
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socialclimber
Mar 22, 2002, 11:53 AM
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Twist locking was the one tecnique that helped me crack overhang climbing
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hang_man
Mar 22, 2002, 1:21 PM
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straightening your arm helps because your bone is more powerful than your muscle... ermm.. it works as the same prinicipal as climbing, so... straighten your arms and keep your centre of gravity close to the rock face
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goopermc
Mar 22, 2002, 6:18 PM
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I am a little confused.
1) Can someone define a "twist lock"?
2) It seems to me that it would be impossible to keep your belly button close to the rock AND dead hang at the same time if the climb got perfectly inverted. In this case which is the prefered method?
[ This Message was edited by: goopermc on 2002-03-22 10:20 ]
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rock_diva
Mar 22, 2002, 8:27 PM
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Plan your moves out ahead of time (particularly when gym climging, since you can see every move) so you don't spend a lot of time hanging, just wondering where to go next. If you move smoothly and quickly you won't get pumped out as quickly.
Also... don't forget to BREATHE... especially on strength moves, quick strong breaths seem to help.
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case22
Mar 22, 2002, 9:06 PM
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You don't try to keep your belly button to the rock! I suppose I should have specified a little better. I use my abs very much for balance. I'm not sure how others feel about that, but that's how I use my abs.
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lostangel
Mar 25, 2002, 12:16 AM
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Try to use your feet more, and dont let your butt hang in mid air!!
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ponyryan
Mar 26, 2002, 7:16 AM
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My experience with overhangs in the gym have tought me that it's all in your footwork. Always work them closer to your hands. That keeps more weight on your feet and makes it easy to hold yourself to the wall.
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