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followtheleader
Feb 19, 2013, 9:32 PM
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Hey guys - my friend and I are looking to make a trip to Seneca Rocks. I was hoping to get a few different ideas in terms of first time routes, descents, etc. from anyone who has been out there before.
This will be our first time at Seneca and our first real multi-pitch experience. Any info or tips would be great. Thanks!
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notapplicable
Feb 20, 2013, 2:02 AM
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followtheleader wrote: Hey guys - my friend and I are looking to make a trip to Seneca Rocks. I was hoping to get a few different ideas in terms of first time routes, descents, etc. from anyone who has been out there before. This will be our first time at Seneca and our first real multi-pitch experience. Any info or tips would be great. Thanks!
I've been climbing there for years and would be happy to toss out some ideas. What grades do you think you would be comfortable on?
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followtheleader
Feb 20, 2013, 3:58 AM
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To start off.. probably nothing higher than 5.7
(This post was edited by followtheleader on Feb 20, 2013, 4:01 AM)
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notapplicable
Feb 20, 2013, 5:32 AM
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I would suggest Skyline Traverse (5.3)as a first route of the day and then maybe take Christians Delight (5.4) to the top of Humphreys Head and rap in to the West Face to finish the day. Once you're on the West Face, and if you felt solid on the previous routes, I would consider climbing the first pitch of Le Gourmet (5.4) to Front C (short 5.6) or climbing Thais (5.6) which is more sustained at the grade.
You could also stay on the East Face after Skyline Traverse and climb Conn's East (5.6) which is super fun and classic but kind of hard for the grade.
A lot of people will tell you to climb Ecstasy Jr. (5.4) as an intro route but I would warn against it. It is awkward in spots and protection is not always straight forward. Honestly, I think it's kind of scary for the grade.
If 5.5 is feeling about right for you, definitely do Conn's West (5.4) to the direct finish (5.5). Fantastic climbing.
5.7 is a sweet spot at Seneca so if you feel solid after the first day, definitely get on Ecstasy (5.7) or The Green Wall (5.7). You will get your moneys worth for sure!
There are a lot of ways to descend from all over Seneca but if you are on the summit ledge and only have one rope, you can often join ropes with another group and get back to the ground in one rap. Beyond that, either read the descriptions well or take the book with you. Some rap stations are a bit hard to find the first time.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Feb 20, 2013, 5:34 AM)
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brinosaur
Feb 20, 2013, 5:45 AM
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If it's your first multipitch experience, I'd stick to shorter climbs with easy routefinding and obvious anchors.
Candy Corner (5.6) is a nice, easily protected pitch that ends on a huge ledge with chains, making for an easy anchor and belay swap. You can continue up the corner just to the left of the ledge for another 50 or so feet (easy 5.7ish, Ye gods and Little Fishes P2) to a healthy tree and other anchor options on a sloping ledge. From there, it's basically a scramble to the top, where you can walk to right and rap off bolted anchors.
Easy climbing, easy routefinding, easy anchors. Hooray.
PS If it's your first Seneca trip and you're climbing moderates, pack yer helmets! The rock tends to be less than clean on many of the cruiser routes, often with other parties above.
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hyhuu
Feb 20, 2013, 3:02 PM
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Give yourself plenty of time to get oriented and familiar with the rocks. The suggested routes are very popular and can get crowded on a nice weekend. If the route is taken, getting to the next one isn't always convenient. Getting down from the summit or higher up can take a bit of time. Ohh and wear a helmet.
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followtheleader
Feb 20, 2013, 5:15 PM
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Are there ample anchor points for rappel? How many rappels are generally needed? I have heard one (with two ropes) but am wondering about bringing and leaving gear (sling, rap rings) for multiple rappels... Are there numerous rings or anchor stations to rappel from the whole way?
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notapplicable
Feb 20, 2013, 6:33 PM
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There are several established rap routes that will get you down with a single rope and you will not need to have backup webbing or rings unless you need to bail from the middle of certain routes. On the routes you will be climbing though, you can almost always reach a ledge and access a bolted anchor or tree with rap rings.
You want to take the climbing there seriously but its also not a remote peak in the wilderness. There are plenty of other climbers around on the weekends and convenience anchors are becoming more common. You need to be prepared to build belay anchors but rap anchors are well established
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notapplicable
Feb 20, 2013, 6:35 PM
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Also. As everyone else said. Bring a helmet. You can rent them for $5 at the gear shop if you dont own one. Oh and bring your headlight too. You dont want to be searching rap anchors after dark without one. Seriously. Dont worry about the backup/bail/rescue gear, just dont forget the headlight!
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Feb 20, 2013, 6:43 PM)
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hildenmw
Mar 5, 2013, 2:48 AM
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Critter Cracks..Top out while you are there.
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