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CurlyFries


Oct 3, 2011, 8:53 PM
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Sling Equalette
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Just been playing around with knots and stuff. Ive always used a sliding x but set up a couple equalettes for fun. Is this right?





EDIT (moved from deleted post below):
When I tie a sliding X I put overhand knots on both sides closer to the bolt. Doesn't affect the functionality of the X and adds redundancy.



Is there any real practical difference between this and the equalette? (saying the overhand knots are in the same place)

Thanks,
Dave


(This post was edited by CurlyFries on Oct 4, 2011, 3:53 PM)


Rmsyll2


Oct 4, 2011, 1:49 AM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Proper Sling Equalette [In reply to]
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Perfect, as far I can see.

If used for two-anchor TR, it can be made longer with pairs of slings between the anchors and the rig. If similar sling material, girth hitch linking is used by many, but others demand only a carabiner link. If slings are equal, the equalette continues to do the equalizing and variable belay point services.

.


CurlyFries


Oct 4, 2011, 12:44 PM
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njrox


Oct 4, 2011, 1:42 PM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Proper Sling Equalette [In reply to]
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CurlyFries wrote:
Is there any real practical difference between this and the equalette?

The impression that I got from John Long's How To Rock Climb is that the equalette is 3 or more anchor points and tied with a cord. And the X (as shown in your picture) is a two bolt and sling set-up. When I think of an equalette...I think of two clove hitches and an eight-knot, and then the x and limiter knots at the master point. yeah, I get what you're saying...they're really close to being the same thing.

do you use nylon or dynema? I only have nylon slings but am thinking of switching to dynema for bolt anchors, just like your picture. normally I use two QDs. how much do the overhands weaken the dynema's strength?


CurlyFries


Oct 4, 2011, 2:28 PM
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Re: [njrox] Proper Sling Equalette [In reply to]
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Those slings are 16mm nylon rated to 22kN. I am not sure how much the knot weakens the sling... Someone here will know though!


marc801


Oct 4, 2011, 2:51 PM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Sling Equalette [In reply to]
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6pacfershur


Oct 4, 2011, 3:35 PM
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Re: [CurlyFries] Sling Equalette [In reply to]
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i recommend the colorado-cockbite variation of the knowitall-bitchcross; tie it all together with used gear you bought from a stranger on Ebay....


marc801


Oct 4, 2011, 4:13 PM
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Re: [6pacfershur] Sling Equalette [In reply to]
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6pacfershur wrote:
i recommend the colorado-cockbite variation of the knowitall-bitchcross; tie it all together with used gear you bought from a stranger on Ebay....
From what we've seen in the past on rc.noob, there are about 16 too-few knots in that setup. And everyone knows you need a minimum of 4 60kN quintuple equalized anchors to be safe and redundant at your masturbation point.

 

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