 |

CurlyFries
Oct 3, 2011, 8:53 PM
Post #1 of 8
(7583 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 23
|
Just been playing around with knots and stuff. Ive always used a sliding x but set up a couple equalettes for fun. Is this right?
EDIT (moved from deleted post below): When I tie a sliding X I put overhand knots on both sides closer to the bolt. Doesn't affect the functionality of the X and adds redundancy.
Is there any real practical difference between this and the equalette? (saying the overhand knots are in the same place) Thanks, Dave
(This post was edited by CurlyFries on Oct 4, 2011, 3:53 PM)
|
|
|
 |
 |

Rmsyll2
Oct 4, 2011, 1:49 AM
Post #2 of 8
(7502 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2010
Posts: 266
|
Perfect, as far I can see. If used for two-anchor TR, it can be made longer with pairs of slings between the anchors and the rig. If similar sling material, girth hitch linking is used by many, but others demand only a carabiner link. If slings are equal, the equalette continues to do the equalizing and variable belay point services. .
|
|
|
 |
 |

CurlyFries
Oct 4, 2011, 12:44 PM
Post #3 of 8
(7444 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 23
|
|
|
|
 |
 |

njrox
Oct 4, 2011, 1:42 PM
Post #4 of 8
(7421 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
|
CurlyFries wrote: Is there any real practical difference between this and the equalette? The impression that I got from John Long's How To Rock Climb is that the equalette is 3 or more anchor points and tied with a cord. And the X (as shown in your picture) is a two bolt and sling set-up. When I think of an equalette...I think of two clove hitches and an eight-knot, and then the x and limiter knots at the master point. yeah, I get what you're saying...they're really close to being the same thing. do you use nylon or dynema? I only have nylon slings but am thinking of switching to dynema for bolt anchors, just like your picture. normally I use two QDs. how much do the overhands weaken the dynema's strength?
|
|
|
 |
 |

CurlyFries
Oct 4, 2011, 2:28 PM
Post #5 of 8
(7397 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2011
Posts: 23
|
Those slings are 16mm nylon rated to 22kN. I am not sure how much the knot weakens the sling... Someone here will know though!
|
|
|
 |
 |

marc801
Oct 4, 2011, 2:51 PM
Post #6 of 8
(7383 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
|
|
|
 |
 |

6pacfershur
Oct 4, 2011, 3:35 PM
Post #7 of 8
(7351 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2010
Posts: 254
|
i recommend the colorado-cockbite variation of the knowitall-bitchcross; tie it all together with used gear you bought from a stranger on Ebay....
|
|
|
 |
 |

marc801
Oct 4, 2011, 4:13 PM
Post #8 of 8
(7328 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
6pacfershur wrote: i recommend the colorado-cockbite variation of the knowitall-bitchcross; tie it all together with used gear you bought from a stranger on Ebay.... From what we've seen in the past on rc.noob, there are about 16 too-few knots in that setup. And everyone knows you need a minimum of 4 60kN quintuple equalized anchors to be safe and redundant at your masturbation point.
|
|
|
 |
|
|