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bearbreeder
Aug 29, 2011, 2:51 PM
Post #26 of 38
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Danx wrote: What I was thinking. I thought quickdraws were pretty much the norm when you don't need to extend placements with a 60cm + sling. Or am I missing something here?
youll be fine ,,, have a mix of slings and draws if it saves you moola, and keep an eye on the burrs in yr biners,
if you dont need to extend a nut very far, draws work fine ... if not everyone in squamish has been doing it wrong ... and so has this old bum ... i think his name is peter crack?, kraft? ... croft !!! .. thats it ... note the deadly draw on a micronut
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Aug 29, 2011, 2:53 PM)
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hugepedro
Aug 30, 2011, 10:40 PM
Post #27 of 38
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I usually leave the ground with 8 standard runners tripled, 2 doubles, and 2 short draws.
I almost always find a situation to use the draws, particularly where I want to prevent zippering - almost always on my first piece (placed for horizontal pull), and often on another horizontal/multi-directional piece up-pitch where I want to do the same thing to protect the next placements either above or below from horizontal pull.
Yeah, a standard runner trippled isn't that much longer, but sometimes a couple inches make all the difference (that's what she said). Even it I don't use them both on pitch, a draw makes for a nice quick clip at the anchor.
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damienclimber
Sep 1, 2011, 12:42 AM
Post #28 of 38
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bearbreeder wrote: Danx wrote: What I was thinking. I thought quickdraws were pretty much the norm when you don't need to extend placements with a 60cm + sling. Or am I missing something here? youll be fine ,,, have a mix of slings and draws if it saves you moola, and keep an eye on the burrs in yr biners, if you dont need to extend a nut very far, draws work fine ... if not everyone in squamish has been doing it wrong ... and so has this old bum ... i think his name is peter crack?, kraft? ... croft !!! .. thats it ... note the deadly draw on a micronut [IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/6t0j91.png[/IMG]
Lets be honest,
Peter Croft can solo it !
The quickdraws are for show. 
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Roo1986
Sep 15, 2011, 9:09 PM
Post #29 of 38
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I think I would prefer to buy a new biner than to start sanding my gear down. Maybe I'm a pussy, but having peace of mind seems to be a rare thing while climbing, especially at your limit (although that is what we are all trying to attain, comfort on the rock), so I take what I can get with the elements I can control.
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jolery
Sep 27, 2011, 4:38 PM
Post #30 of 38
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Danx wrote: What I was thinking. I thought quickdraws were pretty much the norm when you don't need to extend placements with a 60cm + sling. Or am I missing something here?
The issue is the stiffness of sewn draws. If rope pull from climber movement causes the rope side carabiner to move in the plane of the undeformed quickdraw, the stiffness of the sewn webbing in that direction can and will pull passive protection out of the rock.
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jeepnphreak
Sep 27, 2011, 8:46 PM
Post #31 of 38
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jolery wrote: Danx wrote: What I was thinking. I thought quickdraws were pretty much the norm when you don't need to extend placements with a 60cm + sling. Or am I missing something here? The issue is the stiffness of sewn draws. If rope pull from climber movement causes the rope side carabiner to move in the plane of the undeformed quickdraw, the stiffness of the sewn webbing in that direction can and will pull passive protection out of the rock.
Which is why you carry different types. If the rout wanders or goes over a roof than use an extendable. If you are looking at a streight up seam than a quick draw is fine. Yes are are allow to use your brain and read the route.
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ensonik
Sep 28, 2011, 2:28 AM
Post #32 of 38
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jeepnphreak wrote: If you are looking at a streight up seam than a quick draw is fine. Yes are are allow to use your brain and read the route.
Quick tip: sarcasm and mockery comes off much better when you don't spell like an illiterate 4 year old.
This is the beginners forum. Cut the guy some slack.
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jt512
Sep 28, 2011, 5:57 AM
Post #33 of 38
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jeepnphreak wrote: jolery wrote: Danx wrote: What I was thinking. I thought quickdraws were pretty much the norm when you don't need to extend placements with a 60cm + sling. Or am I missing something here? The issue is the stiffness of sewn draws. If rope pull from climber movement causes the rope side carabiner to move in the plane of the undeformed quickdraw, the stiffness of the sewn webbing in that direction can and will pull passive protection out of the rock. Which is why you carry different types. If the rout wanders or goes over a roof than use an extendable. If you are looking at a streight up seam than a quick draw is fine. Yes are are allow to use your brain and read the route.
Just like "are are allow" to use your brain and proofread your post.
Jay
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 28, 2011, 1:09 PM
Post #34 of 38
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jolery wrote: Danx wrote: What I was thinking. I thought quickdraws were pretty much the norm when you don't need to extend placements with a 60cm + sling. Or am I missing something here? The issue is the stiffness of sewn draws. If rope pull from climber movement causes the rope side carabiner to move in the plane of the undeformed quickdraw, the stiffness of the sewn webbing in that direction can and will pull passive protection out of the rock.
This is not as much of an issue as people make it out to be. The important thing to consider is sling length, not whether it's "floppy" or "stiff." Keeping the rope running as straight as possible is what will keep gear from coming out.
I am not saying it's not an issue at all, but the way it gets repeated here ad nauseum, you would think that anyone who uses a sport draw on a nut is going to die. I have fallen on nuts with a sport draw and have had nuts pull out with a "trad" (I still hate that term) draw due to not slinging long enough.
A well seated nut will not be pulled out because of the stiffness of the draw.
Josh
(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Sep 28, 2011, 1:10 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 29, 2011, 1:01 PM
Post #36 of 38
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bearbreeder wrote: anyone who doesnt do exactly as RCers suggest will die ... dontcha know that?
I guess that means we're all going to die then, given all the contradictions that exist here
In reply to: in the real world people just go out n climb
Tru dat.
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shockabuku
Sep 29, 2011, 5:37 PM
Post #38 of 38
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bearbreeder wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: I am not saying it's not an issue at all, but the way it gets repeated here ad nauseum, you would think that anyone who uses a sport draw on a nut is going to die. anyone who doesnt do exactly as RCers suggest will die ... dontcha know that? in the real world people just go out n climb
Just remember - you have elected to be one of us.
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