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verticallaw
Mar 22, 2002, 9:55 PM
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O.K. here goes. I've been climbing a while and I have been getting pretty good. The trouble I'm having is with balance. I find that when I'm up on a lead I loose my balance easily and screw up what was looking to be a good run. I spend so much time trying to correct that I pump out my arms. A friend told me to try balanceing on a ball at home for a bit every night but I have a funney feeling he is still laughing at the thought of me standing on a ball like a circus bear tips would be great.
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dynomaster
Mar 22, 2002, 10:13 PM
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Balance is one of the most important skills in climbing, espically on difficult slab. The best way to get better of course, is to climb, climb, climb. On your off time you can practice balance waliking on something like a curb. I do this all the time. Just make sure at least half of your foot is in hanging over the edge. I often do this for around 30 min waiting for a bus. It helps!
Dyno On
Andy
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andrejka
Mar 22, 2002, 10:17 PM
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well, are you sure that you only loose your balance? is it not in your head, the stress that you are leading? (my problem anyway) if it is so, the only answer is : climb, climb
to practice balance: i agree with dyno , and also the ball is a very good idea.
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jt512
Mar 22, 2002, 10:24 PM
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Quote: Dynomaster: On your off time you can practice balance waliking on something like a curb. I do this all the time. Just make sure at least half of your foot is in hanging over the edge. I often do this for around 30 min waiting for a bus.
In Florida, this is considered to be a "good boulder problem."
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-03-22 14:42 ]
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elcapbuzz
Mar 22, 2002, 10:39 PM
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I've seen this topic before.
At the time, I recomended slacklining.
I stick by this recomendation.
Slacklining isn't for everyone. Warning: I have seen more injuries from slacklining than any other activity.
Good luck, Ammon
[ This Message was edited by: elcapbuzz on 2002-03-22 14:39 ]
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verticallaw
Mar 22, 2002, 10:58 PM
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this is all great and thanks but what the hell is "slacklining????"
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daisuke
Mar 22, 2002, 11:27 PM
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same as tight rope walking only on webbing instead of a rope
right?
D
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dynomaster
Mar 22, 2002, 11:34 PM
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Hey, jt, don't rub it in!
Dyno On
Andy
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elcapbuzz
Mar 22, 2002, 11:46 PM
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Oh, sorry. Yeah, slacklining is walking on a tensioned piece of 1" tubular webbing.
It's an old concept (walking on a cable holding a pole) with a futuristic twist. The webbing makes balancing more dynamic. You can actually manipulate the line to stay underneath you.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Detailed=3116 width=
Practice down low, if you feel like pushing it to the next level, you can walk up high.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Detailed=2687 width=
Also, check out Slackline.com
[ This Message was edited by: elcapbuzz on 2002-03-22 15:49 ]
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rrrADAM
Mar 23, 2002, 12:30 AM
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Hey... I saw that line above when I was bouldering at the Manx Boulders in J-Tree.
It's called the "chongo gap", near Cyclops, right ???
I've done it low to the ground, but my balls were too small to do that one.
rrrADAM
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elcapbuzz
Mar 23, 2002, 2:02 AM
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Yeah, that is the Chongo Gap. He was the first person to walk it, two years ago.
Actually, the rangers cut it about two weeks ago and my friend Shawn got a $25 ticket for leaving a fixed line.
We set up a bigger one in Indian Rocks, (Mnt. Ryan Trailhead) it is 90' across and has had four walks in this order:
Ammon McNeely
Shawn Snyder
Dean Potter
Darrin Carter
I will submit some photos of this gap when I get them.
Ammon
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hang_man
Mar 23, 2002, 3:12 AM
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does it really help to slackline??
it looks like a completely different stunt..
I guess practicing counter-balancing helps
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jt512
Mar 23, 2002, 4:08 AM
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I was wondering that myself. The training gurus wrote off slacklining as being too non-specific for climbing, but it seems to be making a resurgence. Elcapbuzz, does it help your climbing?
-Jay
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maddie
Mar 23, 2002, 5:55 AM
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One Word... YOGA!!!!!!! Yep thats right yoga, there are some very good classes out there which focus on balance, flexibility and strength. Other than that CLIMB, CLIMB, CLIMB!!!!!!!!!!!!!
m.
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elcapbuzz
Mar 23, 2002, 8:03 AM
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Yoga is great!! It helps with flexibility and muscle relaxation.
Maddie, that is a good recommendation.
Now, like I said, "slacklining is not for everyone."
Here is a good exercise. Sit down on a flat surface. Now, with your dominant leg... put your heel as close to your crotch as possible. Your hands should be high in the air, as well as your other leg.
With one leg stand up. Use your arms and waist for balance.
Some of you can do it. Now try it with your weaker leg. Reverse it, sit down smoothly.
Slacklining helps with balance, strength and my favorite, FOCUS.
Balance+Strength+Focus=A better climber!
My opinion, Ammon
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miagi
Mar 24, 2002, 3:00 AM
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Balance is something that comes sort of naturally to me. If i feel im unstable its a feeling of uncomfortablness and i know how to correct it. Practice climbing, learn different moves that might help you like flagging or cross over arms. Http://www.climbingmotion.com shows alot of these moves in quicktime format.
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rock_diva
Mar 24, 2002, 8:43 AM
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Your friend was right... a great way to develop greater balance is by using the large exercise balls (Stability balls) used in gyms, by physical therapists, professional athletes, etc. Studies have shown that using the stability balls develops greater balance and coordination.
They are great for working the abs as well...
www.spryproducts.com has stability balls, search the web, or go to a sporting goods store, for as cheaply as $20.
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verticallaw
Mar 24, 2002, 7:48 PM
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This has been some great info. The slacklining sounds interesting but the ball sounds a little more do-able. Thanks all for your help
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