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rico
May 31, 2002, 6:53 PM
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I started trying an overhang and always have troubles getting up there. Does anyone has some tips??
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bart
May 31, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Try not to swing out (keep your feet on the rock). Sometimes it's useful to pull with one foot and push with the other on the same hold. You can reach higher/further by twisting your body to the rock instead of hanging on bent arms.
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paintinhaler
May 31, 2002, 7:32 PM
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Use good footwork. Use your feet like huge arms, pull and push with your feet also undercling. That only comes by working and learning. Keep your stomach close to the rock. That will put most of your weight on your feet.
Vote For Me!
[ This Message was edited by: paintinhaler on 2002-05-31 12:33 ]
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climberchic
May 31, 2002, 8:00 PM
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Check out this thread!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=9470&forum=36
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need_for_climbing
Jun 1, 2002, 5:51 AM
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I lOVE OVERHANGS hhehehe. Sometimes when people reach the overhang crux, they get a mental block. Espacially in leading. Some tiles although big jugs but because of the overhang u will find urself slipping out a bit. This will make people panick.So my only advise is to mentally prepare urself to finish it.See it in ur mind how u going to climb to finish it. Plan ur route. Although these words r hush but true ONCE U SAY U CANT FINISH IT, U CANT
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hang_man
Jun 1, 2002, 8:52 AM
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wow.. now thinking about overhangs makes my palm sweaty!!
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overlord
Jun 1, 2002, 9:14 AM
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I LOVE OVERHANGS TOO!!! keep your feet high so they dont slip fom holds. keep your arms straight as mush as possible, use techiques like drop-knee and heel-hook and try to get as much weight as possible on the legs.
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climber_dude
Jun 1, 2002, 11:23 AM
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yeah i agree especially being very short drop knees make it a lot easier and keep your self close to the wall jumping usually dosent get you any where as it can be fairly hard to get your feet back in place but sometimes you have no choice
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topher
Jun 3, 2002, 4:20 PM
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with hoverhangs i find even when i have good foot hold im realying alot on my arms, so i recomend climbing lots of them in the gym and doing some good uper body work outs
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csousley
Jun 4, 2002, 4:04 PM
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This might sound dumb, but take a look throught the photos on this site. I have seen some great shots of some pretty intense overhangs.
Look at where the hands and feet are placed. Maybe you'll see something you hadn't thought of. There are a bunch of amazing climbers on this site. Looking at what they do might help.
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blindslap
Jun 7, 2002, 3:04 AM
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if the overhang is small you can get your hands above it, then get your feet as high as you can. Then when you pull up, you have a wider range for your arms to find new holds.
For big overhangs, keep your feet to the rock and you arms extended to save your strength. Really watch your feet.
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duskerhu
Jun 7, 2002, 8:39 AM
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Hey rico, get ready for a good pump...
When you're climbing facingthe wall, keep your hips in as close to the wall as possible. This keeps your weight over your feet as much as possible.
Once you get "past vertical", keep your arms straight as much of the time as possible; meaning, don't be holding a handhold with your arms bent at say, a 90 degree angle, keep your arms straight(*especially when your body is virtually horizontal.) This technique will allow you to conserve strength and save your juice for when you need to pull over the lip of the roof.
Again, once you're "past vertical," sometimes it helps to keep you connected to the rock to do the "twist lock" or "drop knee" which is basically turning your body so one hip or the other is closer to the rock than say your stomach. In this case, your "inside" foot is using its "outside" edge. This also allows you a greater/farther reach with your "inside" arm.
And once again, once you're "past vertical," keeping your knees bent and up close to your body will make it easier to utilize the "staight arm" method. This also allows you, when reaching for the next hold, to keep your "connected" arm staight and drive with your legs to propell you to the next hold.
When you use staight arms, realize it takes some getting used to. Your upper body will be farther from the rock than your lower body, thus, sometimes leaving you almost upside-down, and always feeling way more exposed than usual.
Some of these techniques though require a good amount of arm and core strength to execute and you probably won't have this at first. Work on your upper body strength and practising the techniques is the only way to get there.
Good luck!
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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lilred
Jun 7, 2002, 4:14 PM
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One really important thing that I learned was to rely on your skeleton on overhanging routes...just "hang dog" with your arms, so that you aren't locking off constantly and getting pumped out
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rocknpowda
Jun 7, 2002, 5:21 PM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2002
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Overhangs are fun to fall off!
OVERHANGS = AIRTIME
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jman
Jun 7, 2002, 6:32 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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Keep your arms straight and hang from them...don't want to get pumped out in the middle of an overhang. Keep your feet on the rock to avoid swinging and heel or toe hook if possible.
Good thing about overhangs is if you take a whipper you're not likly to hit much on your way down.
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sheppe
Jun 7, 2002, 7:18 PM
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For a lot of people it's a head-game, so my advice is to stay calm, breath deeply, and relax. Focus on your climbing, and don't think about the route being overhung. Also, watch out for over-grip or you'll get pumped in a hurry.
-Sheppe
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hang_man
Jun 7, 2002, 11:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 19, 2001
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I just have a simple theory.. keep your belly button close to the wall... that will keep your centre of gravity close to the wall and allow most of your weight to be on your feet..
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kunzie
Jun 16, 2002, 4:43 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2001
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I don't know if it's just my shoddy technique, my recklessness or the ease of the climbs I'm doing, but I go all or nothing (when I'm top-roping) and get as high a hand hold as i can and literally do a pull up, until my feet are over the lip and onto the rock as well. It looks pretty stupid (like I'm taking a dump) and I don't know how I'd go if I was leading, but for top-roping carpe dium is the tactic for me (which means I'm gonna die on my leading)
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