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climbchickky
Jun 12, 2002, 1:02 AM
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what are cold shuts?
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apollodorus
Jun 12, 2002, 1:14 AM
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Cold shuts are those hardware store things that are used to join pieces of chain. They look like a link of chain that has been cut and then twisted open a little bit. You link the chain with it, then hammer it shut. They are somewhat unsafe as belay and rap anchors because they don't close all the way and are made of plated steel which rusts out pretty quickly. You can find stainless steel cold shuts, but they also have the problem of being impossible to fully close (they spring back even after being smashed flat).
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loosaboy
Jun 12, 2002, 1:14 AM
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They are a kind of rap ring that you hammer shut. Some people don't like using as much. In some case you will find them still open. No worries if welded shut.
Eric
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rickoldskool
Jun 12, 2002, 5:56 AM
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climbchickky, the previous posts are Incorrect.Quote: Cold shuts are those hardware store things that are used to join pieces of chain...You link the chain with it, then hammer it shut.
NO, those are called lap links. Very different from cold shuts.
Quote:They are a kind of rap ring...No worries if welded shut.
Rap rings are just that rings, usually tied to bolts with webbing, not a cold shut. If you come upon WELDED cold shuts avoid them they are DANGEROUS. Here are two links the first one shows pictures of hardware store cold shuts. http://doityourself.com/store/coldshuts.htm
The second is an article regarding the safety of cold shuts.
http://www.safeclimbing.org/blind_faith.html
They're CHEAP SUBSTITUTES for real hangers!
[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-06-11 23:03 ]
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wyclimber
Jun 12, 2002, 3:15 PM
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Now that we know what cold shuts are. I would like to propose what kind to use, where and when.
I have been using cold shuts for anchor systems, NOT hangers, for almost a decade now. I only use 1/2" galvanized and I don't weld them, I twist them instead. I typically create what I call Sport anchors at the end of the sport climbs I establish. They consist of a closed system and an open system. The closed system takes some thought and a bit more investment. I have used links of chain and a carabiner; a bolt hanger, lap link and carabiner; also the gated cold shuts by Raumer and Fixe. The open system is always the same: 1/2" x 4" wedge bolt and a 1/2" galvanized (open, twisted) cold shut. The twist can be done with a vice and a hollow cheater bar, it allows clearance for the rope to pass between the bolt and tip of the shut.
The strength ratings for the bolt and shut are well over three tons although the twist in the shut may weaken the metal a bit. The load on an anchor of a sport climb is rarely ever dynamic, so it is my belief that this type of anchor is more than adequat, maybe even overkill. I still climb the routes I put in, in the early and mid nineties and no stress or even wear marks can be seen. So there you have it. Big fat galvanized cold shuts for anchors = OK; cold shuts for lead clips = not OK.
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loosaboy
Jun 12, 2002, 3:42 PM
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Rick:
Ah, a lesson in semantics. I suppose I should have said 'sometimes found in place of rap rings'.
As far as welded cold shuts, why do you feel they should be avoided? Or are you advising avoiding all cold shuts, welded or hammered shut? Thanks for the link...
I do agree they are a cheap substitute. When you encounter them, do you leave a sling and biners behind?
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maculated
Jun 12, 2002, 4:28 PM
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The best shuts I've ever come upon are those hinge-action ones they have an abundance of in Bishop. I don't know the true name for them, but they're basically set up like hardware caribiners, and are THE BEST . . . EVER!!!!!!!!! Now, if people would just stop using them as anchors without draws, they would last a lot longer.
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rickoldskool
Jun 13, 2002, 7:41 AM
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Eric, I don't advocate not using cold shuts. As wyclimber explained, his application, type of shut and system would be reasonable. There are, however, alot of shuts out there that are unsafe. Worn out, 3/8" ,welded, rusting or all of the above. I suggest CAUTION! I do refuse to use welded shuts because, they are usually homemade (read; welded by nonprofessionals). I work on aircraft, I don't weld. It IS part of my job to know good welds from bad ones. An improper weld can be VERY weak, cause metal to be brittle, create voids within the weld you can't see, and/or significantly soften the surrounding metal. When you find one can you be sure who welded it? Maybe it was a pro, maybe it was manufactured (no gaurantee), and maybe it's total sh!t. I don't bet my life on maybes when I have a choice. I hope noone else does either.
"Good judgement comes from experience;
experience comes from bad judgement"
Just a cool quote I thought I'd add.
Be safe, live long, climb hard...
P.S. There is no way to leave slings behind without using the shuts, assuming no natural pro. Most often found on sport routes, I usually choose to rap, rather than be lowered, when I don't feel confident about their condition.
[ This Message was edited by: rickoldskool on 2002-06-13 00:52 ]
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biff
Jul 5, 2002, 12:12 PM
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I would also consider this a cold shut. This is the Fixe 3/8" (10mm) Supershut Anchor, available from MEC (Canadian) for $6
We have alot of these as lowering anchors on sport routes around Calgary.
[ This Message was edited by: biff on 2002-07-05 05:14 ]
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theamish
Jul 5, 2002, 1:50 PM
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A note on welding .. These were primarily made for farm use and were not particularly meant to be welded, they are cold forged, hence the name "cold shut" . They were simply designed to be hammered to a closed position and when done correctly they shield the nut and prevent it from backing off the bolt. As a second note shuts will tend to bend open long before they break (this is not to say they won't break)
[ This Message was edited by: theamish on 2002-07-05 06:56 ]
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biggernhell
Jul 5, 2002, 2:53 PM
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Biggernhell says:
If your equiping a single pitch sport route, suck it up, blow a little extra green and invest in gated shuts like the one in the above picture. They are almost impossible to accidentaly unclip, super strong, and inspire confidence in those who follow because they are obviously climbing specific.
Confidence in anchor = fun climbing
If the route is multipitch (I shouldn't even have to say this, but I will anyway since this is the beginners forum) shuts are a big no no.
Shuts as anchors + fall causing upward directional force on anchors = belayer and climber in same big crater at the base
Have fun
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climbinganne
Jul 5, 2002, 4:10 PM
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They are what a kindly refer to as "COLD OPENS"
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rocknpowda
Jul 5, 2002, 5:06 PM
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I don't know alot about cold shuts, but I do know that they are significantly stronger when welded shut. The only disadvantage is that you can't just drop your rope into a welded cold shut. Unwelded they are rated to about 800 pounds, welded they are at least twice that. either way a static load while lowering won't put 800 pounds of force on the anchor. (Note: cold shuts should not be used as lead anchors or anywhere that they might experience a dymamic fall.) I've seen sport anchors that use one cold shut and one fixed biner that seem to work well-not as well however as the fixe models-those are sweeeeeeet.
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rickoldskool
Jul 6, 2002, 7:00 AM
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rocknpowda, If you don't know anything about cold shuts, where do you get Quote:I don't know alot about cold shuts, but I do know that they are significantly stronger when welded shut.
READ the link I previously posted above. Guess what? The supershut pictured above has NO WELDS. Why do you think that is?
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