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rockdog
Aug 15, 2002, 11:00 PM
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I started climbing about 5 months ago and did not have a problem making the transition from 5 7 to 5 9 climbing. but I am having a real hard time moving up to 5 10.
Is this usuall and what can I do to improve on 5-10 problems??
rockdog
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natec
Aug 15, 2002, 11:13 PM
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5.10 is where the climbing starts getting significantly harder.
One thing that helps is try to do about 50/50 with bouldering and climbing routes. You will improve quickly by bouldering but you'll need to keep climbng routes to keep the endurance up.
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topher
Aug 15, 2002, 11:40 PM
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i dissagree about 50/50 with bouldering. thats what kinda do and i must say that since i have started bouldering i can climb harder moves, but i cant do routes as easily even easier ones. once you get up to the 5.9 5.10 range, you kinda have to make a choise, boulder or routes. (im not saying that you can do both but its hard to) this is just what happend to me any way.
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ctrlaltdel
Aug 15, 2002, 11:45 PM
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I would break it down like this.
5.9 -> footwork, basic techniques
5.10 -> advanced techniques, finger strength
5.11 -> ???
By basic techniques I mean things like being aware of barn dooring, mantle, things a kids would use to climb.
Advanced techniques I mean thinks like knee drop, heel/toe hooking, etc.
I think 5.10s are where the holds become small and finger strength starts to come into play. Maybe people can post what they feel like are the basic skill sets require to climb each level.
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rockdog
Aug 15, 2002, 11:46 PM
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I do boulder about once a week and usually do routes 2 or 3 times a week. I mostly boulder to build up strength, I feel I build more skill when I am on a route.
where is the best place to learn or how do you learn more advanced tecniques.
rockdog
[ This Message was edited by: rockdog on 2002-08-15 16:47 ]
[ This Message was edited by: rockdog on 2002-08-15 16:49 ]
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ratstar
Aug 16, 2002, 12:12 AM
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ctrlaltdel
How could you say that mantling is for kids? I have seen some boulderproblems where just the mantle is a V5. That isnt any kids problem.
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rock_climbin_06
Aug 16, 2002, 12:32 AM
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I agree with you rat. The mantle moves are not for kids. They are still really fun moves and take quite a bit of strenghth if they are at the end of a route or the crux. You can notice a huge difference in the 5.9-5.10's though...
-Adam
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jt512
Aug 16, 2002, 1:38 AM
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Quote:I started climbing about 5 months ago and did not have a problem making the transition from 5 7 to 5 9 climbing. but I am having a real hard time moving up to 5 10.
Is this usuall...
Yes. It's called "hitting the 5.10 barrier."
Quote:...and what can I do to improve on 5-10 problems??
You can train your weaknesses. Advice to boulder or not to boulder is uninformed, since none of us knows what your strengths and weaknesses are. You have to figure out what you're having trouble with on 5.10 routes and work to improve those areas. Most likely, with only 5 mos. of climbing experience, you are lacking technique. Have a really good climber critique your climbing. Ask them what you need to work on. If possible, try to climb regularly with partners who are better than you. That's a good way to improve quickly.
-Jay
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markd
Aug 16, 2002, 1:46 AM
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Having trouble with 10's after 5 months climbing is normal. Just keep climbing, whatever style, and things will start to feel better.
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xen_monkey
Aug 16, 2002, 2:27 AM
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The 5.10 barrier wasn't too bad, I jsut had to climb more than once a week. I just can't break the 5.10c barrier. I can do it, but its not pretty, a lot of hang dogs.
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eastofeldo
Aug 16, 2002, 2:36 AM
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i'm with you. i started climbing 2 months ago and am now encountering the same woes. 5.9's were fine from the get go, so i thought the progression to 5.10 would be a fairly easy one.
HA.
for me, it's boiled down to strength and technique -- or i should say the lack there of. 5.9 routes didn't seem to require TOO much of either, where as 5.10's like to demand a bunch of both.
my approach has been to continue clawing my way up 5.10s, figuring i'll be forced into learning something in the process -- or at least improve my strength. i still climb 5.9's too though. they're more 'fun'and i can only last so long on the 5.10s before i'm spent -- which makes for a disappointingly short climbing day
stick with it & have fun!
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frawg
Aug 16, 2002, 3:25 AM
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When i started climbing about 2 years ago, I probably started at 5.10.. But that's because genetically, i'm a freak. When I Started climbing, though.. i had no clue. I just bouldered. I didn't even know utah had all this world class rock climbing around.. I was climbing out west. Bouldering. no ropes, no guides, just bouldering on what i could find. When i eventually got on a rope, and lead a climb, it turned out that i was at 5.11b..
so in short.. Boulder.
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bouldertoad
Aug 16, 2002, 3:50 AM
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When you first begin climbing anyone who is somewhat of a natural can easily do 5.9's. The 5.10 barrier is one that is harer to break into but it can be done if you train your weaknesess.
At this point in your climbing career I would not worry about training to much. Just go out and have a good time and forget about any grades. Go to a crag without using a guidebook. Check the route to make sure it is safe and go for it. Then when you get home check to see what you have done. you will be surprised how much better you climb when you rid yourself of worrying about the little number beside each route.
I have done many routes that I later found out were rated harder then I have previously done. This alone makes climbing much more enjoyable.
While at Foster Falls in TN I did this on my first day there and much to my suprise onsighted a 10c 10d 10b and 10d/11a. My previous hardest onsight was 10c.
One other thing to consider, maybe you are not ready to jump into the 5.10 range just yet. Before I try and move my redpoint level up a grade I am sure to have a good base of routes the grade below my attempted redpoint. I also do not try any routes that are over one number grade harder than my hardest onsight.
These littel tips allowed me to move through the grades rather rapidly.......that is until I tried a 5.12.....grrrrr
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dimeedge
Aug 16, 2002, 4:54 AM
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I felt the same way for a long time...
'If I could only onsight a .10'
and now its 'if I could only onsight an .11'
My advice would be practice dosent always make perfect. Perfect practice makes perfect. There was a comment about clawing your way up something over and over and hoping you learn along the way, but that may not be the best strategy. If it isnt working, try something different. And when you find out how to make that one move, then take on the next move. Also, spend time working through the moves, if you are top roped, you may be fooled into thinking that you know a move because eventually you are past it, but if you are hanging right there, and not lowering a bit to work through it, you are cheating yourself of that chance to learn the move.
I will stop rambling now.
Chad
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hallm
Aug 16, 2002, 5:59 AM
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IMHO,
In order to make the transition from 5.9 to 5.10, be sure you can climb 5.9 solid, meaning, get your tail up on the Steck-Salathe, or any other testpiece 5.9. If you flash through it, you should be well on your way to 5.10 climbing. If not, go back and climb more 5.9 until you are solid, then go back to the .10s.
As has been said, it does very little good to flail around on a hard grade. You will improve more by become smooth on the lower grades.
In any event, keep on craggin'.
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collegekid
Aug 16, 2002, 6:17 AM
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i hit the "5.10 barrier" a while ago....about 3-4 months ago, when i had been climbing for about 6 months. I wouldn't say there is a definitive barrier though...if you don't pay attention to ratings and just climb, you'll gadually gain experience. I would suggest doing mostly boulder problems to get better...boulder problems are usually pure technique, where you are forced to think and find a way to finish the problem.
Anyway, that's what i've found in my experiences...i've done some boulder problems where i just keep trying it different ways...until i either can't climb anymore or i finish the problem. You have to be persistent. So find some 5.10- problems, and just throw yourself at it, preferably with a partner who is at your same level. Also, climbing indoors helped me a lot...my first year of climbing was basically indoor. But just remember, the only way to be a better climber is persistence.
Example: last winter, i was at your level...solid 5.9. I tried this one 5.10 problem at the local climbing spot, and it seemed completely impossible to me. This summer, i did it on the third try...and now i can do most 5.10 problems in a couple attempts. Now, 5.11+ to B1(5.12) problems seem out of my reach...so hopefully in a few months i'll be able to do those too. Just remember, if you can't do it now you can do it later, so long as you keep climbing. In fact, i'm gonna go throw myself on some solid 5.11's tomorrow to test myself.
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paintinhaler
Aug 16, 2002, 6:19 AM
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Im, glad I dont have to deal with that. I started at 5.10, it was my first lead. But ratings in places are diffrent, a lot of times.
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hyhuu
Aug 16, 2002, 6:06 PM
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Great advices from everyone and I agreed on working the techniques. I would only add that learn the techniques and practice them on easier route until you get the hang of the movements. You won't learn much from failing on a hard route. Proper techniques alone will enable you to carnk 5.11s in no time. Good luck.
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ctrlaltdel
Aug 16, 2002, 6:19 PM
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I say mantling is a basic technique, because it's a natural way of getting up on things. I used to mantle up on the kitchen counter when I was little. I think for anyone whose ever climbed a tree, kitchen counter, door ways, etc as a kid would say oh yeah I have done this before to some of the climbing moves. These are the type of moves I would call basic, because it's just natural. Sure there have been times I just couldn't pull off a mantle on a hard climb, but concept is still basic. Now would I ever have thought to lie back and rotate my shoulder in to reach a hold... probably not. People naturally want to pull up with the arms. That's what I consider advanced.
Edit: I just thought of this. People mantle out of the swimming pool all the time. Sure it's heck of lot easier in the pool, but it's the concept.
[ This Message was edited by: ctrlaltdel on 2002-08-16 13:07 ]
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redzit
Aug 16, 2002, 7:35 PM
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Here it is.
5.8->5.9 Technique, basic flag, a variety of hold gripping tech, a "knowledge" of Bio mech and knowledge and practice of other handy techniques
5.9->5.10 Advanced tenchique, Advanced flagging, a good knowledge and "understanding" of Bio mech and the ability to use techniques subconciouly.
5.10->5.11 STRENGTH!!!!!. and the ability to not only use but also creat moves based on those you know.
Simple, I hope. I fallow it, I'm stuck too
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sportgirl
Aug 16, 2002, 7:50 PM
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Yeah , I couldn't agree more- you just need to be patient and really nail down your technique on the 9s. I don't think it has much at all to do with strength - just technique, including flexibility and balance. I cracked the 10 barrier for me last year and now I am leading 10c's, and finding that I climb them much better on lead than TR ... I assume you are toproping?
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climbjs
Aug 16, 2002, 7:54 PM
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Perhaps try the pyramid training. Do tons of 7'2, then 8's, then 9's, etc. However, it is vital that you throw in routes above your level to really push your upper grades. Good luck!
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climbsomething
Aug 16, 2002, 8:39 PM
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I know the frustration too. My 10s are less ugly these days but I still don't think I have them mastered, sometimes it's just a really good or bad day. At any rate, I know 9's are feeling pretty easy.
I didn't do anything particularly special, just kept climbing. Worked harder routes and hopped on routes that exploited my weaknesses more- slopers, reachy moves, severe overhangs and slabs- in addition to my usual, comfort zone routes, and soon I was feeling stronger and more confident.
My advice may be simple, but it worked for me: CLIMB CLIMB CLIMB and work the weak spots.
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jt512
Aug 17, 2002, 2:11 AM
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Quote:
Worked harder routes and hopped on routes that exploited my weaknesses more- slopers, reachy moves, severe overhangs and slabs- in addition to my usual, comfort zone routes...
What's left!?
*****Just kidding*****
-Jay
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rockdog
Aug 18, 2002, 12:42 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. I know i will be able to do 5.10 in a cuple of weeks I just need to keep working the moves and getting them right so my tecnique improves. I ll be knocking the problems dead in real soon.
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