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akaijen
Jul 14, 2002, 4:27 AM
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Hi there,
I've only been climbing for about 3 months. Now that I'm finally over the fear of heights and falling, I'm interested in paying much more attention to my technique. Hence, the reason I'm up late on a Saturday night reading this forum.
The other day one of my partners was trying to explain to me how to get started on a more difficult climb in the gym, and I realized that I literally couldn't do what he was doing b/c I was off about 6 inches. I'm 5'1" if I stand up super straight.
Does anyone have any advice for attacking problems from the diminuative perspective? There are plenty of other teeny women in the gym, so I know there's a way, but since I climb with two average-sized guys they don't quite know how to help me short of just telling me over and over I can do it. I'm sure I can do it, if I knew what IT is.
thanks!
aj
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moey
Jul 14, 2002, 4:36 AM
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I can relate completely!!! My climbing partner is 8 inches taller than me and cleaning his routes is a pain in the butt! But, I do it. How? Well, its easier on real rock than in the gym cuz you can really find your own holds, so I guess thats my first suggestion.
Whenever we're at the gym and I'm struggling with a move I a)remember that Lynn Hill is shorter than me and thus; it can be done! (as cheezy as that is) and b) Somehow, maybe thru creative visualization (it's not my partner's "you can do it's") after a couple of tries I usually work it out. So I guess what I'm saying is just keep trying different ways to make a move and something is bound to work, unelegant as it might be.
I'm not sure how useful this advice is... I'm just learning too!
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jt512
Jul 14, 2002, 6:12 PM
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The Fundamental Theorem of Climbing for Short People is to use higher footholds. You'll be high stepping more than your taller partners and climbing with your knees bent and hanging with straight arms, where taller climbers will tend to climb more straight legged. When you're short you get to do more moves, so enjoy.
-Jay
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styndall
Jul 14, 2002, 7:30 PM
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Two steps:
1. Use higher footholds.
2. Learn to dyno.
I'd recommend the second more than the first - you'll look tons cooler, and everybody in the gym will suddenly want to climb with you. Well, I would anyway - girls who dyno rule.
Stephen Tyndall
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rock_diva
Jul 14, 2002, 10:48 PM
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Yes!
From one short person to another... when you're too short to reach, try to get your feet up higher. Also, to get more reach I will often turn my hip into the wall or backstep so that I can go for a longer reach.
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pogatin
Jul 15, 2002, 2:41 AM
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If you countinue to try the move over and over, you will become more comfortable with the move itself. Therefore, at some point, you will be able to reach farther then you could before, and up your chances of sticking that move. It tends to have a greater satisfaction level if you do it that way, opposed to using cheater holds or carelessly dynoning throught the move. Plus, dynoning through a move on a hard route is pretty hard to do, especially if the holds are bad.
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splat
Jul 15, 2002, 8:41 PM
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Most of my climbin' buds are taller than me, hence a lot of the beta I have to take w/ a block of salt. Like chess, think a few moves ahead, you may need to high step on a nubin' & lean over to that 'great hold' that those stupid tall people just reach up & nail. If that fails... take your tall friends some place w/ off-width climbin'.
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sportgirl
Jul 15, 2002, 9:25 PM
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First - I couldn't agree more about gettting OUTSIDE. I don't like indoor climbing for the reason that there is little creativity. Outside, I can think of a million ways to use the rock and pull the moves, which is key for "petite" women!
I can relate - I am 5'2 and when I first started climbing, I was so frustrated with the reachy climbs. My boyfriend is almost 6 foot and a complete monkey. He would give me beta like - just reach for blah blah blah ... Now, I don't really listen much to beta because I've found that I need to work it all out for myself and my body type. I almost ALWAYS have to do atleast one or two extra moves to get to the chalky holds if I want them.. Yes, high stepping is AwESome for me - especially because I am flexible. A couple of things that I've discovered: 1. Always always look at your feet! 2. I am sometimes better at roofs and chimneys then my taller friends (I can squat and crunch up easily) 3. I always look for unchalked holds - I need intermediate holds before getting to the jugs sometimes. BUT what I discovered is that sometimes the unchalked ones are 10 times better - not all gooey from chalk etc .. They may just be small flakes - but are sometimes really positive.
4. I don't dyno much - it takes too much energy. So, I also twist my body into the rock a lot and if I can get a finger tip on the hold, then I have it for sure.
4. Also, when you are ready to lead, I think that you will find that you will climb better and use your feet more, which helps when you are little. Sometimes all I need is just 1/2 inch up on the rock with my feet and it boosts me up to where I want to be.
Hope that helps -
Steph
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sparky
Jul 17, 2002, 7:48 AM
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I'm as 5'5" and it is nice for balance but not for reach. Usually i need to stretch more than my friends to make some moves but try and twist your hips in as close to the wall as you can, it will and about 10 inches to your reach.
www.geocities.com/climb_eldorado
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climbsomething
Jul 17, 2002, 8:31 AM
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I hear ya. I am 5'3 (and a half! ) which I guess is on the tall end of the shortie spectrum, but still smaller than most of my partners, and definitely shorter than the tall monkey men who set routes at the gym!
I find that I have to step higher, and/or find more feet. Where there are none, I just (try to) smear. As a last resort, I dyno (and oftentimes, miss )
Yep, my height screws me a lot inside where my creativity is stifled. But outside, you can play around with the rock face a whole lot more, and those intermediate holds will appear! (don't listen to people on the ground who say you're "cheating" because you're not using just their chalk-encrusted holds! I've heard this, and was really annoyed! )
And of course, you know as a little girl you can rock out on most cracks and chimneys, make a mono-pocket a 2 or 3-finger hold, and make a crimper a jug. So take heart there
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apollodorus
Jul 17, 2002, 9:59 AM
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A crack can't tell how tall you are, only how much you're willing to go for it. Some lame gym wall problem that's been set up by a "great guy" is about as lame as it comes. Bail the gym, and go for the rock. Lynn Hill is kinda short, on the inches scale, but she has dusted all others in the real rock forum. Bondo jugs in a gym are a pathetic attempt to reproduce the real thing, the Rock, and the gym rats that "set the hardcore" can't possibly reproduce the real stuff. So, take your beautiful, 5-mini self out to the rock, and just, ROCK!
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akaijen
Jul 18, 2002, 4:12 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2002
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Wow, thanks for all the advice!
I have started, in general, to pay more attention to my legs b/c I know I have leg strength anyway. I was getting that seriously painful arm pump thing and the leg thing seems to be solving two problems at the same time.
aj
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climblouisiana
Jul 18, 2002, 4:47 PM
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Climb with other people that have a similar height and body type as you. Watching them work moves will help you with your body movement.
and remember...
Short people climb. Tall people reach.
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coach
Jul 18, 2002, 5:40 PM
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Jay gave you one of the best pieces of advice I could think of for short climbers. High stepping and working on balance (particularly on one leg) will work wonders for you. I have had short women that could high step above their waist and shift all their weight over the foot and make moves that would amaze you.
Climb On
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radistrad
Jul 18, 2002, 6:15 PM
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I think the best advice for any new climber is to learn how to climb on your feet.
Take baby step, they pay off big time.
Watch your feet until they are on their holds, this really helps.
I watch every foot placement until its on its hold, my partner can not get over how well I can use my feet.
Pratice a lot and keep visiting Rockclimbing.com
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clymber
Jul 19, 2002, 1:26 AM
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Dont take this the wrong way but if you are that small you have small everything. You will be able to crimp off of holds your partner has to use as feet or he wont even see. Being short has its advantages just like being 6'1 does. Work on felxabilty also that helps a REAL lot
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jt512
Jul 19, 2002, 3:06 AM
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Plus, being short makes it easier to use your feet, since your eyes are so close to the footholds.
-jt512 (with apologies to Randy Newman)
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crackaddict
Jul 19, 2002, 3:22 AM
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Like Bubba says
Lots of things you can do with shrimp
Theres
Shrimp gumbo
Shrimp cocktail
Shrimp Kabobs
Shrimp Scampi
Shrimp casarole
Shrimp salad
BBQ shrimp
Shrimp soup
Shrimp sandwich
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climbingpride
Jul 19, 2002, 4:49 PM
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Well that sucks for all you short folks, well, seeing that i'm 6'4" almost 5" and just turned 16. Yeah I read all of thoughs books on proper form and technique but the more time you give to useing and perfecting them the more you will learn. There is no way for them to teach you every thing without you getting up on the side of a rock and i'm sure your not against that.
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climber_dude
Jul 20, 2002, 12:29 AM
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its all about foot placement and technique i am probably about the same height as you and have learned there is always a way of conquering a climb one move i have found very useful is the kneedrop it gives you a hell of a lot more of a reach as when your knee goes down the opposite shoulder goes up giving you more reach dynoing is also a useful move which i have not yet mastered but dont give up and work at it bye
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amsam
Jul 20, 2002, 1:31 AM
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I have the same problem. On a recent trip we did lots of crack climbing and I found myself in places where everyone else had to do just one high hand jam, then could kick their feet out far enough to reach a nice big foot hold that could boost them up to the next good hold. I, on the other hand was hanging from one hand jammed in a crack with my feet kicked out, but to short to reach. I was going to give up until a friend reminded me that the wonderful thing about climbing shoes was that they let you smear. So it took multiple tries of nothing but 4 consecutive hand jams, and lots of smearing with the feet to be able to reach the next hold. I also find lots of tiny foot holds that seem to boost me just high enough to reach the holds, I just have to be imaginative then I can reach most anything. The one thing I can't seem to be able to do no matter what because of height are some traverses, but going up is better than going across anyway.
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