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justindonnell
Oct 6, 2002, 6:53 PM
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I've only recently started climbing. All i've done is top roping and bouldering. Any advice on how to start lead?
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rckclimbergurl
Oct 6, 2002, 6:55 PM
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choose a route that you're positive without any doubt that you would be able to make it without falling. If you're not sure, top rop it first, then lead it afterwards.
Have fun, and happy climbing
Tedi
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massbayclimber
Oct 6, 2002, 7:26 PM
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I first lead in a gym. It was a 5.5, and I am a 5.9 climber. Do not just go at it without instruction though, definetly if you are unsure of anything in climbing, get instruction.
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howitzer
Oct 6, 2002, 9:08 PM
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definately go with someone who knows what they are doing. First second a leader to learn about gear placement (trad) and dangers such as backclipping and z-clipping (sport and trad). Then if you start to feel comfrotable with the idea of leading and taking big whippers, you can set us a lead situation with a toprope backup for security and safety. Once you've done that and build up your confidence you are ready to lead without backup. Remember you want to start way below your maximum climbing grade to concentrate on gear placement and percision. Then you can progress up.
Just remember to be safe!
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cliffraven
Oct 7, 2002, 6:50 PM
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It's all about confidence...I agree with picking a climb you know 100% you can make.
Don't think about the fact that you are leading, always focus on your next bolt...never lose your concentration, that's when your chances are higher for falling. Take breaks between bolts to route out your next moves. Focus.
Leading is the best way to climb, you're going to love it!!
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tanner
Oct 9, 2002, 6:20 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2002
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Take a learn in the gym to get the mechanics of it then try easy sport routes. then move on to trad stuff
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climbingfoo
Oct 9, 2002, 7:13 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Go climb with a group of people very experienced in leading. Learn from them, it's the best way.
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old_school
Oct 10, 2002, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2001
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The gym is where I learned. Good and safe.
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coclimber26
Oct 12, 2002, 10:08 PM
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practice bouldering up a route in the gym with bolts, at the first bolt practice hanging on a hold and clipping the rope to the quickdraw several times. Once you have it down then go for it...It seems for beginners that they fumble with the clipping aspect as their forarm strength wears low...
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jbrd528
Oct 12, 2002, 10:36 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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I would start seconding multipich climbs first. I seconded for about 2 years before i jumped on the sharp end. By seconding you get to see how the leader placed the gear, and what gear they placed. Look at each placement and get a feel of why the leader placed it. Interperate the direction of pull and forces that each piece be subjected to.
Most importantly, when you do decide to lead make sure that the climb is within your ability and that you are comfortable placing gear. As a leader you are responsible for alot of variables, and you have to know what to do with each one of them. Have fun and climb safe.
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estwing
Oct 13, 2002, 12:08 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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I recommend that you purchase a quickdraw and then practice clipping till you are blue in the face. Remember that there are four ways to clip the draw, thumb clip and finger clip with each hand.
Do this and when you arrive at that draw on a route you'll make the clip with no problem. It will be great!
Have a nice day,
Sam
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grigrigirl78
Oct 13, 2002, 12:42 AM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2002
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start small and better off in a gym. You have to build up your confidence. Try and go with people who know exactly what they are doing. The more you do it the better you get!!!
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petsfed
Oct 13, 2002, 1:35 AM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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I must be some kind of fluke then. Before I started leading, I climbed on real rock a grand total of 2 times, and never lead in the gym. So if I die climbing, don't any of you feel sorry for me. I did it to myself.
Get a mentor. Climb with them often. And whatever grade you're comfortable at seconding, forget. Start between 5.4-5.6, preferabbly a bolted one, and make mistakes under your mentor's watchful eye. Don't be duped by the hotshots who just soloed that same route to get to the 5.12c above it, they lead this route many times before they even considered untying.
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leejams
Oct 15, 2002, 6:06 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 45
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I am learning the lead part as well. My strategy is to go as much as possible. Seems like if I learn a few thing's each and every time with a different partner I get better,stronger, and more confident. Good luck
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