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cellfish
Aug 21, 2002, 6:18 PM
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I've read that top roping causes the most wear on one's rope. Can I fix a pully to my anchor to minimize the friction? Is there a reason not to?
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wildtrail
Aug 21, 2002, 6:30 PM
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Pulleys are pretty strong, but I wouldn't do it. There is possiblity of shock loads being to great. I wouldn't do that. Someone may correct me, but that doesn't soundsafe at all. Besides, who told you that about top roping? Ropes last longer when top roping than they do on lead climbing. You don't get the fall factor in TR. I would stick with the opposed ovals and skip the pulley idea. Better safe than sorry, better standard practice.
Anybody ever done this?
Steve
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punk
Aug 21, 2002, 6:33 PM
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I cant see why would u want to do that
The added friction from the top biners is a welcome addition to dynamically absorbing the impact in case of fall creating less friction will only emphasized the shock on the belayer (which can mean allot I cases when your belayer is substantially lower weight then u)
The only reason to use the roof pulleys is in rescue when u most likely using static belay and belayed from the anchor and when dynamic falls are less likely
Hope it helped
climb safe
Edit:
U may want to use your pack, stuff sack or a t shirt in the area of high abrasion just to keep the rope from wearing too much
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-08-21 12:02 ]
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dsafanda
Aug 21, 2002, 6:35 PM
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I suspect that most of the wear and tear on a rope that is generated by top-roping comes from the amount of stretch the rope has to continually endure through repeated short falls, hang-dogging and lowering while the rope is not extended to it's full length. A pulley won't solve this problem.
Also...why not put some of your creative thought and ingenuity in to learning how to lead climb? It's fun.
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pbjosh
Aug 21, 2002, 6:50 PM
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wildtrail - unless you're into walls or you fall a lot at high fall factors top roping will put much more wear and tear on your rope than leading.
Dogging a sport route isn't hard on your rope, nor is taking a 20' whipper 75' up a route. Having all your friends take top rope rides on your rope, lower off and climbing and running the rope over the rock as only top-roping can will wear out your rope MUCH faster than leading and following. In fact I won't let people use my couple of good lead ropes for TR'ing, but I have a couple old beater ropes that are already fuzzed to hell (from toproping) that I continue to use for TRing...
josh
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billcoe_
Aug 21, 2002, 6:59 PM
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PBJosh: I'd be carefull about letting them get TO beater. I saw a fuzzy rope pull apart from bodyweight on rappel. Scares the hell out of me.
Femer through the skin and pants. Guy screamed like a baby, until he passed out.
Good thing it was only from @ 30 feet up.
BTW, I use steel biners for toproping so as not to get aluminum on the ropes. Works great, but the belay is still aluminum. I'd let the pully thing go.
Bill
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climbinganne
Aug 21, 2002, 7:04 PM
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ahhh....NO!!!!
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pbjosh
Aug 21, 2002, 7:05 PM
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billcoe - It's not like I'm use some ropes I picked up on the east ledges rappel. I just use my retired lead ropes as TR ropes. I'd rather have them not fuzzy and funky for leading and don't mind as much for the occaisonal TR (which I don't do a lot of).
I agree that a pulley isn't worth the effort/time/energy/etc.
Better way to spend your effort/time/energy is learning to lead and getting out and leading so it's not an issue!
..josh
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thrillseeker05
Aug 21, 2002, 7:35 PM
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bail on the pully idea completely.
if you make sure your anchors are over the lip of the cliff at all times and you use some nice rounded beners then you are fine on a top-rope.
if you really want to extend the life a day or two .. have your friends climb with the slack a bit loose so that you aren't helping them up the whole way. then teach them to rap from the top rather then lower.
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toobigtoclimb
Aug 21, 2002, 7:57 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
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Trust me...your rope won't wear abnormally. No pulleys.
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geckobean1
Aug 21, 2002, 8:38 PM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2002
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I was thinking the same thing. sounds like a bad idea though!
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