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Re: [billl7] Single vs Multi-Pitch ?'s:
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ChaseLeoncini
Jun 15, 2013, 5:15 PM
Views: 19505
Registered: Jun 6, 2013
Posts: 33
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For fully bolted routes where the bolts are obviously bomber, You could ask to lower, clean as many bolts as possible on the way down, when your belayer says theres 10 feet left, clip yourself into another bolt, rethread rope through the gear and tie back-up fig-8 knot to your harness belay loop, untie your main tie-in and pull the rope from the top piece and re-tie in at the tip of your rope. Now you can most likely be lowered to your last anchor and youve only lost 1-2 quickdraws. (If it makes you feel safer you can always switch lockers to your draws)
Kind of difficult to explain but hopefully you get it. I definitely wouldn't recommend this technique without reading more about how to do it.
Self-Rescue books will help.
EDIT:
Bill said this in of his paragraphs, i missed that. My apologies.
Also, if your partner is tied into the other end of the rope (as is proper) you should never be able to be lowered off the end of the rope.
Best climbing book (out of the 10 i own) is Self Rescue by David Fasulo. Its published by Falcon Guides and is sold at many climbing shops.
Others that are great are:
How to Rock Climb - John Long (You all saw that comin)
Climbing anchors 2nd edition - John Long (that one too)
The mountaineering Handbook - Craig Connaly
Freedom Of The Hills - forget who wrote that one cant find it
Climbing knots - peter owen (im sure any knot book will suffice)
How to Big Wall - Chris McNamara
Theres more i just cant find them and these are the best anyhow.
Good luck.
(This post was edited by ChaseLeoncini on Jun 15, 2013, 5:24 PM)
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Post edited by ChaseLeoncini
() on Jun 15, 2013, 5:24 PM
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