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Trad climbing in the old days, how it all arose
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skinner


May 23, 2008, 9:43 PM
Post #26 of 28 (3500 views)
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Trad climbing in the old days, how it all arose [In reply to]
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:
It used to be if you wanted to climb it was an apprentice/master relationship, with a lot of risk and responsibility and reward.

Now, the new climber goes to the gym...

Hrmmm, we just had this discussion recently in another thread. It was also mentioned that along with "skills", ethics and a respect for the environment where these skills would be applied, were passed on as an important part of the mentorship-to-protégé education.

One thing that I have noticed, (whether or not it due to today's lack of mentorship or the advent of the gym), is the attitude(s) that (many) climbers seem to have towards other climbers. All the gloating and mocking of others skills (or lack of) and the instantaneous need to know what grade someone's capable of, was something I never used to see. Alex Lowe pretty much summed it up, but IMHO a new rope that just pulled off their first 5.6 multi-pitch, is most likely having a lot more fun then the guy who went out and solo'd yet another remote and obscure death-route that no-one will ever repeat.

It may also be due it part to the division of climbing into it's individual disciplines, gym, sport, trad, etc., where (as mentioned) it used to be simply "climbing", that has now created the inevitable rivalry and is responsible for lack of camaraderie between "climbers" in general.

Just my thoughts/ramblings.


milesenoell


Jul 5, 2008, 5:34 AM
Post #27 of 28 (3448 views)
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Re: [rogue10186] Trad climbing in the old days, how it all arose [In reply to]
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rogue10186 wrote:
Here's an interesting site for you about the history of passive pro... http://www.needlesports.com/...museum/nutsstory.htm

They've also got a link that covers the history and development of active pro on there too.

That's a great link with the stories


curt


Jul 6, 2008, 1:33 AM
Post #28 of 28 (3405 views)
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Re: [Shiv] Trad climbing in the old days, how it all arose [In reply to]
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Shiv wrote:
So, out of curiosity, what would you say are the unwritten rules that climbers need to follow? Like for example not talking/ singing (for example :p) about falling when a person is lead climbing

There are no ethics or rules in climbing since the advent of sport climbing. That's really about all you need to know.

Curt

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