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TKubik
Apr 19, 2009, 11:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2008
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I was wondering if anyone knows any comprehensive books. I've found a couple of academic journals, and some really vague information on the history, but nothing great. I'm looking specifically for information from when it made the split from mountaineering to the present. I don't know a lot about the history, hence why I'm doing the research, so if I sound like an idiot, sorry. Thanks for any help.
Tom
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camhead
Apr 19, 2009, 11:42 PM
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hmm... your profile says you are in Las Vegas? UNLV is on the semester system, so I believe you have a little under two weeks until your paper is due? heh.
Anyway, I am not that well-versed in climbing history, and I do not know any comprehensive book. However, Pat Ament's two bios on John Gill and Royal Robbins, Master of Rock and Spirit of the Age, respectively, are pretty good snapshots of the early development of American free-climbing. John Sherman's Stone Crusade tells a lot about the history of bouldering. Lynn Hill's autobiography is good for background on the California climbing scene and the birth of sport climbing. And I believe that Jeff Achey wrote a history of climbing in Colorado, but I can't recall the title.
Good luck!
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irregularpanda
Apr 20, 2009, 12:47 AM
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One that is also not necessarily a history book is "Wall-rats, Hangdogs, and rock jocks"
It's fun to read also, and offers insight into the development of the sport post royal robbins.
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PigsOnDrugs
May 2, 2009, 3:55 AM
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Silly man books are not for reading! there for the worlds best thing!
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Hammertoes
May 4, 2009, 5:43 PM
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You could look it up on wikipedia or you could spend some time reading up on the various threads( read multiple books) of our history. Or you could talk to old-timers(Not Fred Becky) who actually climbed, but they may all be dead. Now there is a subject for a thesis.
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duncanlennon
May 4, 2009, 6:06 PM
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TKubik wrote: I'm looking specifically for information from when it made the split from mountaineering to the present.
A good source for examining this question, though not a comprehensive one (i.e. limited to a regional focus), is Yankee Rock and Ice by Guy and Laura Waterman. They look at characters in the early 1900s who translated the mountaineering experience they had picked up in the Alps into actual rock routes in New England. Good luck
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TKubik
May 5, 2009, 6:25 AM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2008
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Thanks for the input guys. I ended up changing the topic to the variables of performance in rock climbing. Tons of material out there for that, so I'm good to go. Thanks again.
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