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The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III
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dingus


Jun 1, 2007, 4:19 AM
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The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III
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I really enjoyed this book!

"Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father" is part autobiographical and part historical. It chronicles the career of his dad, John Harlin II, Air Force fighter pilot and notable Alps climber.

Harlin II was killed on the Eiger Direct of course, his rope parted as he was jugging to their highpoint for the final push to the summit. He fell like 4000 feet.

Harlin talks about the impact on his family and what it was like to grow up. He went on to become a good rock climber and writer. I myself became aware of him through his North American guide book series. Briefly met and said hi once in the south.

But even though he'd promised his widowed mother he wouldn't do it, he was drawn to climb the mountain that killed his father.

This is the tale. Its well written and has lots of historical photos. I've heard tales and read lots of stories all around this saga and Harlin's story really tells the definitive story imo.

He is a really good writer, a pleasure to read.

If you have any interest at all in mountaineering go out and buy Harlin's The Eiger Obsession.

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Jun 1, 2007, 4:23 AM)


ghoulwe


Jun 8, 2007, 4:39 AM
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Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
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I'm in the middle of this book right now, Dingus. You're right, it is a good read. I had always heard only of John II's climbing school over there and, of course, his final accident. This gives a good accounting of his drive and obsession as regards its impact on family and partners. Well written.

Eric


d.vonk


Dec 1, 2007, 5:32 AM
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i just saw the imax video of this 3 days ago!!! amazing.. the movie really speaks to you... Was very well done!! *applause**


endercore


Dec 1, 2007, 6:41 AM
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Re: [d.vonk] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
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i bought this book at a used bookstore this summer and could not put it down. It was a great read.


skinner


Dec 5, 2007, 12:10 AM
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To anyone that hasn't read it yet, I'd suggest reading, "Eiger Direct" by: Peter Gillman & Dougal Haston, first. Amazing story, however it was published in 1966, so you'll have to go to the library or buy a copy online.








It seems like it's becoming somewhat of a collectors item since the release of "The Eiger Obsession". with a few copies signed by Chris Bonnington & John Harlin III going for $75. I found one signed by Bonnington for $30.

While we're on the subject of the John Harlin III and the Eiger.. Has anyone seen The Alps" yet?


jgloporto


Jan 11, 2008, 4:05 PM
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dingus wrote:
I really enjoyed this book!

"Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father" is part autobiographical and part historical. It chronicles the career of his dad, John Harlin II, Air Force fighter pilot and notable Alps climber.

Harlin II was killed on the Eiger Direct of course, his rope parted as he was jugging to their highpoint for the final push to the summit. He fell like 4000 feet.

Harlin talks about the impact on his family and what it was like to grow up. He went on to become a good rock climber and writer. I myself became aware of him through his North American guide book series. Briefly met and said hi once in the south.

But even though he'd promised his widowed mother he wouldn't do it, he was drawn to climb the mountain that killed his father.

This is the tale. Its well written and has lots of historical photos. I've heard tales and read lots of stories all around this saga and Harlin's story really tells the definitive story imo.

He is a really good writer, a pleasure to read.

If you have any interest at all in mountaineering go out and buy Harlin's The Eiger Obsession.

DMT

I am definitely going to read this.


sed


Jan 11, 2008, 4:15 PM
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thanks for the referral, i just bought it and look forward to the read.
S


chedontsurf


Mar 19, 2008, 4:52 PM
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i saw the movie @ a dome i-max. visually, it was amazing, but i couldn't help but notice that his friend was the one who seemed to be doing all the lead climbing.Unsure


dingus


Mar 19, 2008, 5:17 PM
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Re: [chedontsurf] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
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chedontsurf wrote:
i saw the movie @ a dome i-max. visually, it was amazing, but i couldn't help but notice that his friend was the one who seemed to be doing all the lead climbing.Unsure

Paid guide. Harlin wrote about how he felt when the dude refused to let him lead on the final pitches. There were hard feelings for a while but he says he got over it.

The guide was supposedly concerned over the image of allowing a client to lead when there were cameras present.

Cheers
DMT


timstich


Mar 19, 2008, 9:15 PM
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Re: [dingus] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
chedontsurf wrote:
i saw the movie @ a dome i-max. visually, it was amazing, but i couldn't help but notice that his friend was the one who seemed to be doing all the lead climbing.Unsure

Paid guide. Harlin wrote about how he felt when the dude refused to let him lead on the final pitches. There were hard feelings for a while but he says he got over it.

The guide was supposedly concerned over the image of allowing a client to lead when there were cameras present.

Cheers
DMT

Interesting. It was probably a good idea to get a guide for that route, especially one that had done the route multiple times and knew where to go.


EvilMonkey


Mar 19, 2008, 10:07 PM
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Re: [timstich] The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin III [In reply to]
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i agree that it's smart to climb something like that w/ someone who has experience, but how can you make a film about yourself seconding an entire route? it just doesn't make a lot of sense to me. i can't blame the guide for not letting him lead the last pitch though. hell, the spoils should go to the guy who lead the whole thing. don't ya think?


dingus


Mar 20, 2008, 3:01 AM
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You guys should read the book. Harlin explains his choices therein. One theme he related well was the emotional impact his decision to climb the mountain had on his mother.

I need to see the movie.

DMT

 

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