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Question for Old Geezers
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Poll: Question for Old Geezers
I climb more sport for convienience, but at my heart, I am trad. 21 / 19%
I started trad, cause that's all there was, now I pretty much stick to sport 6 / 5%
I have and always will be a trad climber, damn kids and their damn bolts. 22 / 20%
I am John Gill 6 / 5%
I am less than 49 years old but wanted to answer anyway. 55 / 50%
110 total votes
 

clausti


Apr 15, 2008, 6:48 PM
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cherries!


bradkillough


May 14, 2008, 7:13 PM
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Trad.............. Ah the ole days......... yep still a traddie............. uhhhhh what was the question sonny? geezer, who you callin geezer, ya young whipper snapper? haha...... What?


(This post was edited by bradkillough on May 14, 2008, 7:16 PM)


tundraline


May 15, 2008, 1:50 PM
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I am 51 years old, and started climbing in 1961 (my dad was in the 10th Mountain Division). I had a bad climbing accident in 1978 and stopped all technical climbing until picking it up again last year. Now I really regret missing 30 years of climbing. Things have changed -- a LOT, and in pretty much the same way as in skiing. The equipment is way better, accepted climbing techniques are much safer, a lot more people are involved in the sport, and the general level of expertise is considerably higher than back in the day. Rock gyms help with conditioning in a major way, and I wish we had had them in the old days. Just as in skiing, it is very interesting to observe the evolution of the sport and note how much people's mindsets affect what becomes the average level of skill. Back in the day, at least among my climbing partners, leading just about any 5.10 was sort of a big deal. Yes the boots, protection and other gear generally sucked, but the biggest part was the idea we had at the time about the difficulty of 5.10s. Just about any respectable climber leads 5.10s nowadays. It remains (for me, anyway) the best sport, and the people who are involved in it remain as interesting and engaing as the folks I knew 30 years ago. There seem to a lot fewer dirtbag climbers nowadays than back in days of yore (at least as a proportion of the climbing population). No need anymore to live out of a car for months at a time. The whole sport climbing thing is, in my opinion, really kool. Climbing has come a long, long way in a relatively short time. My 14 year old son leads 5.11 (in the gym) and kicks my butt every stinkin' day.


bradkillough


May 15, 2008, 2:30 PM
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jgill wrote:
Back in the 1950s we used soft iron pitons and steel karabiners from Europe, and layed nylon rope. I actually started in the early 1950s with manilla rope, which was very scratchy and non-stretchy. My fondest memories are of long exploratory leads in the Tetons that were probably not over 5.7 difficulty, but required some mountaineering route-finding skills. I introduced the use of chalk in climbing to a larger climbing community at that time, and carried a small block of magnesium carbonate - bought at a drug store - in my shirt pocket. I did harder things, but those delightful climbs in sunshine and the cool, clear air, executed with a naivete that I now see was a blessing, are treasures in my memories.

I see someone has already checked the poll answer that I normally would have chosen, so I won't make it two! Cool
Thanks John for paving the way for the rest of us!!


bradkillough


May 15, 2008, 2:38 PM
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tundraline wrote:
I am 51 years old, and started climbing in 1961 (my dad was in the 10th Mountain Division). I had a bad climbing accident in 1978 and stopped all technical climbing until picking it up again last year. Now I really regret missing 30 years of climbing. Things have changed -- a LOT, and in pretty much the same way as in skiing. The equipment is way better, accepted climbing techniques are much safer, a lot more people are involved in the sport, and the general level of expertise is considerably higher than back in the day. Rock gyms help with conditioning in a major way, and I wish we had had them in the old days. Just as in skiing, it is very interesting to observe the evolution of the sport and note how much people's mindsets affect what becomes the average level of skill. Back in the day, at least among my climbing partners, leading just about any 5.10 was sort of a big deal. Yes the boots, protection and other gear generally sucked, but the biggest part was the idea we had at the time about the difficulty of 5.10s. Just about any respectable climber leads 5.10s nowadays. It remains (for me, anyway) the best sport, and the people who are involved in it remain as interesting and engaing as the folks I knew 30 years ago. There seem to a lot fewer dirtbag climbers nowadays than back in days of yore (at least as a proportion of the climbing population). No need anymore to live out of a car for months at a time. The whole sport climbing thing is, in my opinion, really kool. Climbing has come a long, long way in a relatively short time. My 14 year old son leads 5.11 (in the gym) and kicks my butt every stinkin' day.

Wow, you know thats kinda what happened to me and my son. I was working over the road and was knocked off a billboard sign by a crane. This happened at the time my son started leading and we talked about all the big routes and places we would climb and now we still climb together, but I'm limited on the climbs I can do. On the upside, we still climb together, but I mostly belay on the harder, more technicle routes now. My point is, we still spend time together, and hes graduating May 23, whew, time flies!!


(This post was edited by bradkillough on May 15, 2008, 2:39 PM)


Partner gandolf


May 15, 2008, 2:47 PM
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Wow, I am just happy that at the age of 47, I am not considered an "Old Geezer"


curt


May 16, 2008, 4:22 AM
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gandolf wrote:
Wow, I am just happy that at the age of 47, I am not considered an "Old Geezer"

Heh.. The AARP crap will start showing up in your mailbox soon enough.

Curt


Partner angry


May 16, 2008, 4:30 AM
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Why are there 4 John Gills? When writing the poll I knew he was an active member and I knew he was entirely different than any population, so I gave him his own category.

Seriously, that wasn't in joking.

Bunch of fucksticks you are, screwing with my pole.

Wait, that didn't sound right...


moose_droppings


May 16, 2008, 4:46 AM
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bradkillough wrote:
I am 51 years old, and started climbing in 1961

Man, sure wish I would of known someone to take me climbing when I was 4 or 5 years old. You were a lucky dude.


jt512


May 16, 2008, 8:38 AM
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angry wrote:
Why are there 4 John Gills? When writing the poll I knew he was an active member and I knew he was entirely different than any population, so I gave him his own category.

He has three troll accounts, just like everybody else.

Jay


wivanoff


Jun 20, 2008, 5:59 PM
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54. Trad. Started in 1972. Pretty much stopped climbing around '03 when osteoarthritis and bifocals made it kind of discouraging. Started again in '07 and am enjoying the heck out of it. Mostly easy routes, though.

Never tried sport. Maybe someday when I'm old and feeble.

(This post was edited by wivanoff on Jun 20, 2008, 6:57 PM)


swoopee


Dec 31, 2008, 2:56 AM
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I am 47. Started out trad in 1974, climb mostly TR now, and mostly in the gym, something I never thought I'd do, but hey climbing is climbing, so I takes what I can get. Wink


digital_photog


Dec 31, 2008, 3:23 PM
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It sounds like JohnCook could ahve been writing about my experience. I am 58 years ond. Started climbing in the mid 60's Bouldering and and my first roped climb was in 1966. When we had our daughters climbing and other sports slowed down a lot. after about 1980 I didn't do any climbing other than for work as a millwright. Then an accident with a back injury ended that. Was walking with canes for several years. This year I was doing good enough that I got back into climbing. Mostly toprope but did lead one 5.8. I replaced all my old rope and slings this year. still use my old stoppers and hexes, have never owned any cams, but have climbed with a few who have them. We now have built a 20 foot wall in my barn and I am teaching my grandsons climbing. I don't get to climb alot since I usually am the only one to belay. Im now teaching my son-in-law and a neighbor boy to belay so I hope to get to climb more in the near future. This is my first post since I started browsing this forum about 2 years ago, after getting back into climbing.


Partner xtrmecat


Dec 31, 2008, 4:28 PM
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Allright, I'm in. Over your age limit and trad being my preference. I live where bolts are the norm with a little mixed climbing. Due to rock type and quality mostly. Prefer trad as I see the rock as a finite resource, and believe I can only make one clean ascent, after that it is just a climb, still fun but not the same as bottom up clean, me against what is afforded me.
I have been caught bouldering last spring at another forum's get together, and had a blast. I must admit it was fun. We also did some bigger trad stuff and never seemed to get around to sport.
Now I cannot get out as much as I would like and do not want to waste time on just climbing, but rather hit up the classic lines. Won't be too much longer and these will be out of reach.
Oh yea. I also aid the big stuff as time allows, but do it in the fairest means possible, IE if it goes clean I don't take a pin,head, or hammer. I have a pole for my ledge fly, and it hasn't had duct tape on it, nor will it ever.
Bob


Partner angry


Dec 31, 2008, 4:38 PM
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Hey, I heard that Hemmingway might not have actually made your sig quote. In fact, I've heard that there's a whole stack of "Hemmingway quotes" attributed to him that there's no evidence at all he ever said.


fitzontherocks


Dec 31, 2008, 5:37 PM
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angry wrote:
Hey, I heard that Hemmingway might not have actually made your sig quote. In fact, I've heard that there's a whole stack of "Hemmingway quotes" attributed to him that there's no evidence at all he ever said.

It's not in my Bartlett's Quotations, bit it is very widely quoted.
Anyhoo, since you asked, I make 50 in April. Started climbing in 2000. Started with toprope, moved to sport, and then trad. I like trad and sport fairly equally, but tend to do more sport since that's more readily available/accessible--probably 65/35 trad to sport. When time/convenience factors in, I reach for the draws. When I have the luxury of time, I grab the trad rack.


dingus


Dec 31, 2008, 6:00 PM
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angry wrote:
Hey, I heard that Hemmingway might not have actually made your sig quote. In fact, I've heard that there's a whole stack of "Hemmingway quotes" attributed to him that there's no evidence at all he ever said.


"Oh its not load...."

Hemmingway?????

DMT


notapplicable


Jan 2, 2009, 8:05 PM
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dingus wrote:
angry wrote:
Hey, I heard that Hemmingway might not have actually made your sig quote. In fact, I've heard that there's a whole stack of "Hemmingway quotes" attributed to him that there's no evidence at all he ever said.


"Oh its not load...."

Hemmingway?????

DMT

SlySly LMFAO


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Jan 2, 2009, 8:05 PM)


Maddhatter


Jan 3, 2009, 6:06 PM
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angry wrote:
This question is for the greyer generation on this site. Please be 49 years old or older to answer (see option 5).

I realize all you who started prior to 1980 or earlier pretty much only climbed trad. In fact, there was no trad, only climbing, and it was largely protected by removable gear.

Now that there's options, I wonder where you've gone. I'd like to know what style the older generation is climbing on. Please don't just answer based on your opinion, answer based on what style you are actually getting miles on.

In the trivia and history section because you trivial old bastards are history!!!


Classic, STFU Noob.


(This post was edited by Maddhatter on Jan 3, 2009, 6:09 PM)

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