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capn_morgan
Oct 10, 2003, 8:02 PM
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i just read through tenn_dawgs post and it got me thinking about how different climbing is now than it was in the past. I think about my dads old climbing gear and i wonder how they did what they did with that..and WTF where they thinking :wink: He was climbing in the early to mid seventies while working as a NPS ranger in Kings canyon, unfortunatly he did not continue once my parents moved to VT where i was born so i did not start rock climbing until recently.
Was just wondering if any of the um.."more experienced" climbers on this site had any interesting, amusing or just plain crazy stories from "back in the day" :D
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mega
Oct 10, 2003, 8:30 PM
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There are two old schoolers in my climbing club. One has been climbing for 50 years at the Gunks. Back then they had hemp rope and did not do difficult multi pitch climbs because of rope durability on a leader fall. The AMC (who I now go with) dominated the Gunks for a while and would not allow difficult climbs out of saftey fears. Some other club (don't remember the name of it) came along and began doing more difficult routes.
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dynoguy
Oct 10, 2003, 8:37 PM
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I'm sure John Gill could field this one.
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polarwid
Oct 10, 2003, 8:40 PM
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It was not another "club". It was a group of GOOD climbers that did not agree with the "regulation" of the cliffs by any group. They pushed the standards two to three grades higher, but were well known for partying and drugs, and the occasional NUDE climb. Dick Williams was one of the "charter" members of the VULGARIANS, the name applied to them by the APPIES. That was the golden age of climbing in NY, and most of the best routes in the 5.9 to 5.11 range were put up by the VULGARIANS, since they were too difficult or dangerous for the pipe-smoking, tweed knicker wearing APPIES.
Hope that straightens that out... :lol:
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norskagent
Oct 10, 2003, 9:14 PM
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In the 80s, I named an obscure 10a at Moore's "old school", my buds had tried it but backed off and debated about placing a bolt or seeing if it would go all trad, when I went with them next go, I led it first time, no bolt (insert spray here) so...onsight, fa, ground up...hence the name. It's probably seen less than 5 ascents due to location and desire.
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mungeclimber
Oct 10, 2003, 9:46 PM
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In reply to: In the 80s, I named an obscure 10a at Moore's "old school", my buds had tried it but backed off and debated about placing a bolt or seeing if it would go all trad, when I went with them next go, I led it first time, no bolt (insert spray here) so...onsight, fa, ground up...hence the name. It's probably seen less than 5 ascents due to location and desire.
booo yah!!!
(insert accolades here)
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nagatana
Oct 10, 2003, 10:25 PM
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morgan, mind linking to the post?
It's funny, I was thinking of a similar thing last night after reading philbox's thread with archaic belay anchors. I was wondering how many fatal falls must've occured with ragtag, backyard-brewed equipment to make climbing gear what it is today.
While there's an array of fascinating gear out there, Black Diamond's ATC is my number pick for awesome design. It's got that minimalistic style, and works like a charm.
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bobtheboulderer
Oct 10, 2003, 10:43 PM
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You're right, those guys back then were crazy.
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nagatana
Oct 11, 2003, 5:50 AM
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Please wear your bandana for continuity next time. :wink:
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flying_dutchman
Oct 11, 2003, 6:25 AM
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you know, some things in history shouldn't necessary be repeated
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