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jurch
Mar 10, 2003, 4:24 PM
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Check out this site... it isn't new (june 02) so some of you might have seen it before..., but it's a must-read for every climber...
http://www.petermaass.com/core.cfm?p=1&mag=83&magtype=1http://
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jurch
Mar 18, 2003, 6:27 AM
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what's wrong with you guys?.... too lazy to reply or too lazy to read the article?
or it's just that you'd rather read about some hot-shots aid climbing 20m, 5.14d ''walls'' instead of real climbing... :))
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iliketobeoutside
Mar 18, 2003, 6:36 AM
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It was great. Taught me a lot and it made for a good bedtime story :D
But thanks for letting me know it was out there i am always up for learning new things.
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bigwallgumbie
Mar 18, 2003, 6:41 AM
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Wow. Thanks dude!
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apollodorus
Mar 18, 2003, 6:55 AM
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GREAT ARTICLE! Very nicely written. And the subject matter at hand, Mr. Humar, is to Reinhold Messner what Messner was to Hillary: a great climber who shoulder-stands on those before him and goes further than anyone thought possible.
FWIW: Tomaz SOLOED Reticent as his first big Yosemite wall. Chongo and PTPP dialed him in the Valley with logistics beta, and then he sent it. PTPP gave his only copy of The Chongo Book to Tomaz. PTPP is STILL trying to get Chongo to either sell the book, or at least give him another copy.
I couldn't find the photo of Tomaz, Chongo and PTPP, so this will have to do:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=2043
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rocmonkey
Mar 18, 2003, 9:49 AM
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Jurch
Thanks for the inspirational piece. You won't believe how the Tumaz-story just psyched me up. I am so in desperate need of rock that I fear clawing at my office walls in full view of my colleagues.
Really an amazing story about an amazing man.
True inspiration is what we find when we take the time to look close enough at those simple things around us. - Carl Jackson (18 March 2003)
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jurch
Mar 19, 2003, 1:57 PM
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hehe... very glad you like it...
few notes... at the end he says he's planning something that even his wife doesn't know ... that was Xixabangma in the autumn 2002 ... he's done it to the top, of course... just after stepping from the wheel-chair ...
I've collected the achievements of his expeditions (just the major outer-europe ones) for better presentation:
GANESH V, 6986 m
Southeast face. The first time the Japanese Route was repeated, with the new Slovene Variant (1000 m), 90° IV-V (75° IV). 2800 m
ANNAPURNA I, 8091 m
North face. After three days at an altitude over 7500 m he ascends the French Route alone and reaches the summit, 3900 m
AMA DABLAM, 6828 m
Northwest face. They climb alpine-style the new Memorial Route for Stane Belak - rauf, VI 90° (70° V, A2+). They descend down the southwest ridge, 1650 m.
For the route they climbed they receive the prestigious mountaineering award - Golden Ice-Ax 1996 (Piolet d'or 1996).
BOBAYE, 6808 m
Northwest face. He ascends the virgin peak alpine-style along a new route Golden Heart, V 85° (50-70°).
He descends along a new Memorial Routefor Vanja Furlan. V+ 90°, (50-70°), 2500 m
NUPTSE W2, 7742 m
West face of Nuptse W2. They climb alpine-style a new route Humar-Jegli?, 90° IV-V (50-70°, V), 2500 m
EL CAPITAN
He is the first European to climb solo one of the most difficult technical routes in the world in fifteen days. Reticent Wall VI., 5.9, A5, 850 m
DHAULAGIRI I, 8167 m
South face. He climbs alpine-style a new Mobitel Route up the central part to an altitude of 8000 m. VII, 90°, M7+, 4000 m
check out his site : www.humar.com (you'll find nice photos, few captions out of his book, which is truly heart/mind-breaking :))
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buzyrock
Mar 19, 2003, 2:51 PM
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I have read this article when it was posted on Outside web side. That article contains few pics of Tomaz. More than anything, it's a truely inspiring story about one of the most extraordinary climber of our generation
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dingus
Mar 22, 2003, 1:37 AM
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In reply to: what's wrong with you guys?.... too lazy to reply or too lazy to read the article? or it's just that you'd rather read about some hot-shots aid climbing 20m, 5.14d ''walls'' instead of real climbing... :))
I read it. I didn't think I had to publicly acknowledge it. Feel better?
DMT
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pbjosh
Mar 22, 2003, 2:25 AM
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In reply to: EL CAPITAN He is the first European to climb solo one of the most difficult technical routes in the world in fifteen days. Reticent Wall VI., 5.9, A5, 850 m
While I won't knock his achievement I think Xaver Bongard's solo of Jolly Roger beat him to the punch by 10+ years and drew a lot more attention, for what it's worth.
josh
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jurch
Mar 26, 2003, 4:45 PM
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dingus,
got nothing to do about me "wow, i read the article!!!!" or something similar... it's just that, i haven't read much about him on this forum and felt that many (most) of you don't know him and maybe should...
and pbjosh...
i think it never was claimed such an achievement... and talkink about attention it's always funny how climbers from slavonic countries never get so known... even though they have accomplished the most outlandish climbs...
for example... i haven't seen anyone on this forum mentioning the great Jerzy Kukuczka (i think he matches Messner easily...). funny, isn' it...
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bakedjake
Mar 26, 2003, 4:54 PM
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I printed this and read it on the commute home. Interesting!!!
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jumaringjeff
Mar 26, 2003, 5:32 PM
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weee...........
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timstich
Apr 17, 2003, 12:51 PM
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After the author mentions his chakras for the third time in two paragraphs, I tuned the f*ck out. You new age people...
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dingus
Apr 17, 2003, 2:46 PM
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In reply to: dingus, got nothing to do about me "wow, i read the article!!!!" or something similar... it's just that, i haven't read much about him on this forum and felt that many (most) of you don't know him and maybe should...
Thanks Jurch. Didn't see your reply till now. I just thought your 2nd post a bit odd, is all. But this IS rockclimbing.com, not himilayanbigpeaks.com.
A couple of additional points: (you got me to thinking about that!)
In reply to: i think it never was claimed such an achievement... and talkink about attention it's always funny how climbers from slavonic countries never get so known... even though they have accomplished the most outlandish climbs... for example... i haven't seen anyone on this forum mentioning the great Jerzy Kukuczka (i think he matches Messner easily...). funny, isn' it...
1. I am personally at a point in my climbing career where I care not for tracking, taking note of, emulating or otherwise worshipping or even being particularly motivated by 'famous' climbers. Don't take this wrong cause it's not intended to diss your man, but what he does or claims to have done, and the surrounding controversy, doesn't really affect me at all. I'm not ever going to do any of his climbs and he's never going to do mine. I stopped reading the climbing rags years ago for this very reason.
2. Correct me if I'm wrong, but Kukuczka is dead and has been so for a long time. And he died climbing. Messner, on the other hand, was alive and well last I knew, protesting war in Baghdad. The point is, the claim of "greatest" or "easily matching Messner" doesn't hold up well in this most important of comparisons... staying alive. Messner is almost without peer, perhaps totally without peer, in this arena.
The reason I raised that point is obvious... will Humar live to be an old man or will he join the ranks of bold, half-crazy and very dead, eastern European climbers. If you are inclined to compare and make declarations of 'best' or 'world's greatest' I would submit that dying while climbing automatically renders one ineligible for the title.
Will Humar survive his obsessions, that is one of the interesting, if not dark, questions. I don't mention this to provoke you. But when I read of the repeated risks undertaken by this man, defying common sense and the better judgement of a lot of very experienced climbers, and also note the many 'near misses' he has survived, I wonder, at what point do the dice come up Snake Eyes?
Actually I don't wonder at all. I wish the man all the best. If he did that Lhotse face, t'would be an amazing thing.
But a final blunt question... would you encourage Humar to attempt the face, or attempt to dissuade him, given the chance?
DMT
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brianinslc
Apr 21, 2003, 5:00 PM
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[quote="dingus: Will Humar survive his obsessions, that is one of the interesting, if not dark, questions. I don't mention this to provoke you. But when I read of the repeated risks undertaken by this man, defying common sense and the better judgement of a lot of very experienced climbers, and also note the many 'near misses' he has survived, I wonder, at what point do the dice come up Snake Eyes?
Actually I don't wonder at all. I wish the man all the best. If he did that Lhotse face, t'would be an amazing thing.
But a final blunt question... would you encourage Humar to attempt the face, or attempt to dissuade him, given the chance?
I got a chance to chat to Tomaz for a while at the AAC meetin' at Snowbird in Feb. 02. Watchin' his show, and chattin' with the guy, I got the distinct impression that I was lookin' at a short timer. I asked him, wow, what next? He said Nepal, "because I have to go".
Encourage or dissuade? He's pretty psyched. Gotta handshake grip of steel. Very nice, pleasant feller. Hard to not encourage someone with that much passion. I'm not sure how you temper that type of appetite with some sort of "gee, be careful". He's in a very risky business. And, will probably continue to push it. Won't be just skill if he survives.
I'd suggest his book, No Impossible Way, as an interesting read with great pictures of some of the stuff he's done.
I wish him good luck.
Brian in SLC
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jurch
Apr 22, 2003, 9:00 PM
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dingus,
must agree with probably everything you said... but few points...
- if you find me himalayanbigpeaks.com, I would be very glad :)
- Kukuczka had exceptional new routes on 8000-ers and he didn't die because of his own mistake (like too many great alpinists...)
- yeah, I hope for Humar to stay alive... I think this is a major problem in slovenian alpinism, i mean he isn't the only maniac... there were so many amazing climbers, who had some fierce route but they aren't with us anymore... I don't know, he's been pretty lucky (or is the ghost-seeing...:), but who says that lasts forever?
oh, and encourageing (sp?)... that doesn't really matter... this is what he is and this is what he will do...
have a good time...
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