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iliketobeoutside
Apr 3, 2003, 6:35 PM
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I need some advice for my research paper. It is a fairly easy assignment of 5-7 pages. The topic i am working on is 5 climbs that were revolutionary and pushed climbing to new heights. I don't think i am restricting which syle of climbing since there has been a great achievement in all aspects of climibing. Another thing is that i need book sources. Any help and sugestions are greatly appriceated. Thanks in advance
-Jamie
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kyhangdog
Apr 3, 2003, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2001
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There is one issue in "Climbing" that addressed the topic you are describing. It was a few years ago, but if you can find it, it's directly on topic.
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mozea
Apr 3, 2003, 7:03 PM
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...and this is a paper for college? whew.......
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hellbent
Apr 3, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Is this paper for college?
If yes, then WOW.
If you look up old climbing magazines, they have a lot of stuff on classic routes that define the character of an area.
Let us know how your paper goes.
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iliketobeoutside
Apr 3, 2003, 7:27 PM
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Yes it is for college :D I got kinda lucky
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buckyllama
Apr 3, 2003, 7:46 PM
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Lynn Hill 1993/1994 The Nose (Free / Free in a day)
Slathe/Nelson 1947 Lost Arrow (first "modern" big wall climb)
Robbins/??? 1957 Northwest face of Half Dome (First grade VI)
Jardine 197? Elephants Eliminate (Most spectacular early use of cams)
Really the first 3 I think make the list for sure. I wouldn't spend time arguing the 4th one, I just wanted somehting that reflected the invention and use of cams and that's the first thing to pop to mind. As for the 5th, (and even the 4th if you disagree on that) it's pretty wide open. There have been so many amazing climbers and so many amazing ascents it's hard to narrow down. Mabye a list of 10 would be better. Some sport climbing ("Realization" perhaps). Some crazy runout/solo type stuff (Bachar-Yerian?) Bouldering. (John Gill gets the nod there, mabye he can reccomend a specific problem) I'd like to see Jim Bridwell on the list somewhere. I didn't even touch mountaneering at all.
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polarwid
Apr 3, 2003, 11:18 PM
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For mountaineering,
BRIDWELL and STUMP on the MOOSE'S TOOTH,
LOWE and KENNEDY, INFINITE SPUR
Early routes in the TETONS
ANYTHING by FRED BECKEY
Also, some amazing ascents in the HIMALAYAS in the 50s
Check out the first ascents of LOGAN and ST.ELIAS, then look at the dates...the conditions on these peaks turn back great climbers even today!!!
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bandycoot
Apr 3, 2003, 11:56 PM
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Go out and buy "defying gravity" I just finished reading it and it goes into depth about Yosemite climbing history, and what the climbs/people/things were that pushed climbing to new limits. they talk about RR on Half Dome, Harding on the Nose, Croft soloing Astroman, Bachar setting standards protecting on lead, Hills free of the Nose, AND MUCH MUCH MORE!!!!!
Josh
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merlin
Apr 4, 2003, 12:08 AM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2002
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maybe think about having some of the climbs from other countries????? punks in the gym at the arapiles... was supposedly the hardest for quite awhile... maybe good to include??? plus its from oz so its betta!!! ROFL
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jurch
Apr 8, 2003, 9:00 PM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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- Harrer, ... 1938 (i think) - North face Of Eiger - The last great problem of the Alps
- Herzog, Lachenal 1950 - Annapurna - The first summited 8000er and a great exploration as well (read the book if you haven't yet)
- Messner 1978 - Everest with no oxygen
- Kukuczka - pick one... K2 polish route probably
- Tomaz Humar 1999 - Dhaulagiri SF - The last great problem of Himalaya...
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phaedrus
Apr 8, 2003, 9:38 PM
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Don't forget the contributions by John Gill, who introduced chalk to climbing and developed the gymnastic style of climbing we all utilize so heavily today. There is a book called John Gill: Master of Rock by Pat Ament. (I forget who published it.) John is the person responsible for bouldering as we know it today, so his contributions definitely need to be included in any sort of paper on rock climbing.
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caveman
Apr 8, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Registered: Aug 7, 2002
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The nose
west wall of changabang
to bolt or not to be
the thimble
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sully
Apr 8, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2000
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Lynn Hill and the Nose....a definite must
Warren Harding's ascent of the Nose. Not the best in style, but who the h*$% am I to judge.
The book on Royal Robbins has a lot of Yosemite History (by Pat Ament)
Good luck on the paper.
:D
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