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yorkshireman
Mar 6, 2008, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2005
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When I was over in the US a couple of years ago, we visited Boy Scout rocks, (Amazing Face is amazing!)
While there, a local told us a story about someone coming along to re-bolt Earthcling, but was prevented by someone saying that Ed Drummond had hand-placed the original bolts while doing the first ascent, and therefore it would be unethical to re-bolt unless in a similar style.
Is this story true?
Does anyone have a definitive version?
I have tried to tell the story here in England, but no-one believes me.
Are the original bolts still there?
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tolman_paul
Mar 7, 2008, 1:14 AM
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Was this another climb at Diablo? I found this interesting thread regarding route development at Mt. Diablo.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=795084;page=1;mh=-1;;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC
BTW, I'm the guilty party that turned amazing face from a tr to a lead route.
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yorkshireman
Mar 7, 2008, 7:54 AM
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Good lead on Amazing Face! Was that after it was bolted?
Earthcling, is about 15 yards to the right of Amazing Face. I'd still be interested in it's history and the story I mentioned above.
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tolman_paul
Mar 7, 2008, 6:16 PM
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I don't see any route on the lower tier that is called undercling. The three routes I recall climbing down there were amazing face, which I bolted, the bolt ladder which went at 5.10d, and another 5.11 face climb that was to the right of the bolt route and traversed over to the bolt route for it's anchors.
It's been 14 years since I climbed there, so I don't know what has happened since then. I guess at the time I bolted amazing face it was illegal, though it went in under the radar, and it wasn't a well known climbing spot. In hindsight I wished I'd gone with glue in anchors as the sandstone there is very soft. A few years later a letter came out stating that bolting was illegal and anyonw who bolted would be ticketed. I can respect not putting in new routes, but would like to see the old manky anchors replaced.
I had misgivings about bolting the long established tr problem (amazing face), but am glad to hear how many people have enjoyed leading it over the years. Most decent lead routes seem to be start around 5.10, so it's nice to have a few moderate routes for folks who are new to leading.
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yorkshireman
Mar 7, 2008, 8:57 PM
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Here's a post from that thread you gave a link to:
"Earthcling/aka Dire Blow may be improved with another bolt replaced betweent the current 3rd and 4th bolts. I'm guessing when it was re-bolted they moved the 3rd bolt lower to a better clipping stance. But now there is a pretty good run out here. A friend of mine fell while making this clip (4th bolt) and only because of a good belay (the belayer ran backwards to take in slack) it saved him from decking. There is a hole with a broken off bolt in it about 3 feet above the 3rd bolt. If this bolt is replaced it would be a much safer lead. However I didn't check to see if there was a good clipping stance for this bolt placement. If there is a decent stance I'd like to see this bolt replaced."
I think it may be the bolt ladder you referred to, but I also got the impression that Drummond led it free, hand placing bolts for protection only.
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tolman_paul
Mar 7, 2008, 10:16 PM
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My thinking if the 4th bolt is good, just put a long runner on it so that it can be clipped from lower down.
Lots of ways to get around bolting bans w/ wipping out the drill and breaking the law.
As I said it's been many years, but I do recall the route with the broken off bolt. Personally I'd just say leave it as is, and rap down to add a sling for those that need one.
I'd really hate to see folks going bolt crazy and the rangers ressponding by chopping all the bolts.
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