|
arrow
Jan 19, 2006, 2:56 PM
Post #1 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 69
|
Can anyone tell me the name of the route that Doug Robinson & Galen Rowell (I forget who else) climbed in '73? It was the first hammerless ascent of half dome. I remember reading about this in National Geographic when I was a kid but have never been able to find the route name.
|
|
|
|
|
flyfshmn
Jan 19, 2006, 3:02 PM
Post #2 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2006
Posts: 35
|
I think that it was the North West Face...
In reply to: Not only did Royal and his wife Liz put up a climb using solely nuts, they put up perhaps the best multi-pitch 5.8 in Yosemite. After their first ascent of Nutcracker Sweet (later shortened to Nutcracker), virtually all climbers who followed only used nuts. This act along with the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Catalog and the first hammerless ascent of Half Dome’s Northwest Face, would seal the fate of pitons forever. |
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Jan 19, 2006, 3:27 PM
Post #3 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
this is going to History and Trivia in 3....2....
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jan 19, 2006, 3:29 PM
Post #4 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
It was the Regular NW Face Route, in the June, 1974 issue of National Geographic.
That article changed my life, for real!
[edit] Dennis Hennek was the third climber.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Jan 19, 2006, 3:30 PM
Post #5 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
edge moved this thread from Slacklining to Climbing History & Trivia.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Jan 19, 2006, 3:30 PM
Post #6 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Read a Day in the Open, a night on the ground by Robinson. Good stuff, enlightening.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
arrow
Jan 19, 2006, 4:25 PM
Post #7 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 69
|
That article in National Geographic had a huge influence on my life too! Thanks fellas I'm hoping my shoulder rehabs well enough to climb that route in the not too distant future to fulfill a 32 year old dream.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Jan 19, 2006, 4:31 PM
Post #9 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*It was the Regular NW Face Route, in the June, 1974 issue of National Geographic.
That article changed my life, for real!*
Same here, I ran away from home and did NWF in 4 days with basically no climbing experience because of that article...my parents canceled their subscription to NG shortly thereafter...
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jan 20, 2006, 5:39 PM
Post #10 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
In reply to: *It was the Regular NW Face Route, in the June, 1974 issue of National Geographic. That article changed my life, for real!* Same here, I ran away from home and did NWF in 4 days with basically no climbing experience because of that article...my parents canceled their subscription to NG shortly thereafter...
OMG thats funny!
I find it interesting that people generally still want to/or find it acceptable to tear the walls up with non-clean methods, despite that great attempt at rasing the bar by those 3 climbers and many others at the time.
Why is that?
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Jan 21, 2006, 12:56 AM
Post #11 of 11
(5749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
I'm another one who read that article every few days that year (I was just out of high school). I still recall passages from it, e.g. that it was Robinson's idea to leave the hammer behind. Without telling the others until they were on the route! :D
|
|
|
|
|
|
