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fresh
Aug 9, 2007, 1:35 AM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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for primary placements, Long attributes SOS to someone I forget in climbing anchors.
Solid
Orientation
Surface area
fwiw I think KISS could be pretty aptly applied to acronyms. who's gonna remember to check every letter of ERNEST or STARRS?
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jt512
Aug 9, 2007, 1:44 AM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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If you need an acronym for a good gear placement, trad climbing might not be for you.
Jay
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flint
Aug 9, 2007, 2:37 AM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
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[quote "anniemarea"]I am looking for and acronym for good gear placement; something that may include solid rock, surface area, direction of pull, etc...[/quote]
My personal favorites are.......
That looks Ok?.?.?.?
TAKE, but as soft as possible.....
Wonder if my partner can reach back there.....
How far am I above my last piece?
Clipping, no wait..... replacing......
Well pull test #2 failed, maybe a cam will fit better....
I just wrapped the rope around that big thing there...
Hope that zippers before my partner sees it.......
Look! Booty, clip and continue.....
Holy Shit.... A few moments later I am still in the air and not on the ground......
My personal favorite, normaly bothering my belayer more than me....... yelling rock??? I mean GEAR....
When in dought, run it out...........
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zeke_sf
Aug 9, 2007, 4:27 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
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Here's a little gear-placement acronym I made for the b_e, um, I mean coffee thread that I use while climbing in the trad style:
metal. Barring slung features and wadded up pieces of tissue
placed in constrictions, most pieces are made out of some kind of metal. Is yours made out of metal? That's probably a good sign.
Easily cleaned. This is pretty much the top priority when placing gear--for your follower. Fuck them! Place the tricam. Yard on it hard!
Attitude. Does that placement sum up the way you're expressing your 'tude today?
Toprope. This is what you create by placing far, far above your head. It sometimes eases the uncontrollable leg spasms threatening to send you to the ground that is just 6' away--until you climb up and actually see what you placed. Gulp!
Bitches. They're in the peanut gallery below, and you can hear their "whispers" criticizing your placements plain as day.
Oh shit, my stopper just came out!
Meatbomb. A little redundant given the acronym, but would you meatbomb onto this placement?
Zeke. Would Zeke climb above it?
That's all the climbing wisdom I can bear to part with at this time. Stay safe?
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flint
Aug 10, 2007, 3:31 AM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 543
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zeke_sf wrote: metal. Barring slung features and wadded up pieces of tissue placed in constrictions, most pieces are made out of some kind of metal. Is yours made out of metal? That's probably a good sign.
Umm, I as well prefer metal, but often find the need to be more creative. Can you say Nalgene and offwidth.
zeke_sf wrote: Easily cleaned. This is pretty much the top priority when placing gear--for your follower. Fuck them! Place the tricam. Yard on it hard!
On days when I am feeling generous, I prefer placements that zipper when clipping into the next piece.
zeke_sf wrote: Attitude. Does that placement sum up the way you're expressing your 'tude today?
#8 hex being pounded into place with a #11 hex. Umm check
zeke_sf wrote: Toprope. This is what you create by placing far, far above your head. It sometimes eases the uncontrollable leg spasms threatening to send you to the ground that is just 6' away--until you climb up and actually see what you placed. Gulp!
But placing at the waist just means that I have to use more gear.....
zeke_sf wrote: Bitches. They're in the peanut gallery below, and you can hear their "whispers" criticizing your placements plain as day.
I know, Fuck them. I don't see them leading any 45 feet 5.6 climbs with only two bolts.
zeke_sf wrote: Oh shit, my stopper just came out!
Next time a piton will fit better.
zeke_sf wrote: Meatbomb. A little redundant given the acronym, but would you meatbomb onto this placement?
Hell yes. I put one of those foam things the cool kids use at the bottom.
zeke_sf wrote: Zeke. Would Zeke climb above it?
Who is zeke?
This is the best acronym yet, it is all about how easy it is to remember.
Thanks zeke
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zeke_sf
Aug 10, 2007, 5:04 AM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
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Glad you liked. You can substitute any name for the "zeke" at the end. As long as your name starts with a "z." Or maybe "d" or an "s." "Flint"? MEATBOMF? I'm sorry. Not gonna work. But Nalgenes are also good pro. Pitons? Yes! may I have another? Remember, every piton you pound is a fingerlock for the next generation.
Yeah, bitches criticize, but I don't see them sending our futuristic 5.6, two bolt test-pieces. Huh?! Thought so!
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