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oldrnotboldr
Apr 26, 2015, 7:14 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2005
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I've been searching for some climbing culture comparisons between Yosemite and Eldorado during those early years. I came to the climbing scene more as an alpinist than a rock climber in the late 1980's. It always seemed to me that Colorado and even Wyoming were a more transient and less formed culture. Perhaps more subdued? As well as more focused on new styles, routes, etc. Certainly hope some old schoolers will jump forward and correct any errors. Or at least a history buff to inform and correct any false assumptions.
(This post was edited by oldrnotboldr on Apr 27, 2015, 4:00 AM)
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kevin32248
Apr 30, 2015, 10:20 PM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2015
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I began climbing in '64 with Duncan Ferguson while we were students at South High in Denver. We explored the crags around Morrson Colorado. I can say without a doubt that we both escaped certain death by ignorance on numerous occasions. My first climb in Eldorado was in the spring of 1966 with Dickon Arndt. I knew next to nothing about my own capabilities let alone placing pitons. (nuts arrived on the scene in '68 or '69 depending on who you speak to) I fell while leading Red Garden route and broke my left arm as well as snapped the tip off of the transverse process on my 12th thoracic vertebrae. Not a great start. Months later, after healing, Dickon and I returned to Red Garden and completed the route. In the Autumn of '66 while attending the University of Colorado, I continued along my learning curve climbing with Dickon, Paul Sibley and Billy Roos. In '68 I benefited from the tutelage of Jimmy Erickson who also was a student at C.U. Jimmy was an accomplished free climber from the Devil's Lake area. After a stint as Jim's belay slave, I began to safely lead moderately difficult routes in Eldorado and the South Platt area. Jim and I were roommates in "69 and '70 and during this time he was a friend and climbing mentor. During the spring of '70 Dickon, Ron Cox and I made a pilgrimage to Yosemite where we learned a few big wall techniques then later that summer Dickon, his brother Burnie and I did an early ascent of D-1 (Kamps-Rearick) on the Diamond. I free climbed as much as I could but long sections were beyond my abilities at the time. In '74 after returning from 4 years in Hawaii I met Jeff Lowe and we became friends and business partners in The International Alpine School in Eldorado and Ouray Colorado. I still have a small house next to South Boulder Creek and continue to climb when opportunity allows. I am very familiar with most of the climbers and the community of Eldorado so if you have any questions, fire away. Cheers! Kevin
(This post was edited by kevin32248 on Apr 30, 2015, 10:39 PM)
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oldrnotboldr
May 1, 2015, 9:18 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2005
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Thanks for the input, Kevin. Sent you a message.
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