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Climbing history - 1970's
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arizonarockrat


Apr 21, 2004, 8:54 PM
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Climbing history - 1970's
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hey everyone! :D
I'm doing a report for school on the history of rock climbing in the 1970's. I was wondering if any of you might have some first hand experience, or if any of you know where I could go to research it. Thanks so much for your time!


vegastradguy


Apr 21, 2004, 9:04 PM
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try Pat Ament's History of Free Climbing in America for free climbing, theres probably some books out there that cover aid climbing and europe...i'm sure others will pipe up w/ some ideas.


thegreytradster


Apr 21, 2004, 9:21 PM
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The Gaines Guide to Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, has a fair historical section in the front. John Long, (vivalargo) has written a bunch of stories about this time frame. Old copies of Mountain magazine, (British but covered the American scene better than the local mags.) would also be good as well as Climbing magazine which was in its infancy then.


fredbob


Apr 21, 2004, 9:43 PM
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In reply to:
The Gaines Guide to Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, has a fair historical section in the front.

With all due respect for my co-author Bob (who for the last edition did most of the route updating and is far more knowledgeable than I with regard to new route activity at T&S), the history section was written and extensively researched solely by myself, first appearing in print in 1987 in Climbing Magazine.


leinosaur


Apr 21, 2004, 10:19 PM
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http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...ity/articles/72.html

Cool article from 1972 Chouinard catalog

encourages the lads to lay off the pitons, and pick up trad

dig it!

leinosaur


micronut


Apr 22, 2004, 1:59 PM
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In reply to:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...ity/articles/72.html

Cool article from 1972 Chouinard catalog

encourages the lads to lay off the pitons, and pick up trad

dig it!

leinosaur

That article is so classic! It was the manifesto of clean climbing, and Doug Robinson walked his talk, right up the first clean assent of Half Dome.


tecais


Apr 22, 2004, 2:25 PM
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John Gill's site has an excellent history section from a bouldering perspective:
http://www.johngill.net/


jv


Apr 22, 2004, 2:32 PM
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Here are some books that will help:

Rock Jocks, Wall Rats & Hang Dogs: Rock Climbing on the Edge of Reality, John Long -- to me, this book encapsulates the 70's climbing experience.

Defying Gravity: High Adventure on Yosemite's Walls, Gary Arce

Climbing Adventures -- A Climber's Passion, Jim Bridwell with Keith Peall

Camp 4-- Recollections of a Yosemite Climber, Steve Roper. This one basically ends at the 70's, so it's just background.

You should also check your public library's magazine collection for back issues of Climbing, Summit, and Mountain magazines. Also look for the mountaineering journal Ascent, published by Sierra Club Books. If your public library doesn't have these, try your local college/university library.

JV


Partner rgold


Apr 22, 2004, 3:23 PM
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Climbing in North America, Chris Jones.

Yankee Rock and Ice, Laura and Guy Waterman.

Ament's book is a prodigous effort but, as with all such projects, has some errors. If you want to be factually correct, I'd try to confirm it with another source.


nomadic


Apr 28, 2004, 5:10 AM
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http://www.climbingforlife.org/history.html

this is also a good web set , maybe it will help you ,
that is very coinside that i am also doing a report on climbing now ; perhas
we can share the infor together .


nomadic


Apr 28, 2004, 5:12 AM
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oh dear ; there are so many spelling mistakes ; consider i am a chinese ; so don't be too strict about that ! :lol:


slavetogravity


Apr 28, 2004, 5:23 AM
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In reply to:
Rock Jocks, Wall Rats & Hang Dogs: Rock Climbing on the Edge of Reality, John Long -- to me, this book encapsulates the 70's climbing experience.

I'll second that. :wink:


changlama


Apr 28, 2004, 7:06 PM
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Remember, not all history takes place in the United States, check out Chic Scott's "Pushing the Limits" for a Canadian perspective.


crotch


Apr 28, 2004, 7:13 PM
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Remember, not all history takes place in the United State

Right you are. Before 1776 some things happened in Europe. Carry on.

 

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