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leak
Aug 21, 2003, 5:48 AM
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anyone know what the first route onsite is at j-tree?
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thegreytradster
Aug 21, 2003, 2:55 PM
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Some unknown free solo by an unnamed Morongo Indian.
The first listed dates I know of are The Eye, 1957, Zigzag, 1956, Dick and Harold Webster. John Wolfe's 1970 guide book. This is really a Randy Vogel question. If anyone really knows, it would be him.
We also found some evidence that the Keys kids scrambled to the top of some of the formations above their ranch. Old jars, etc.
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rrrADAM
Aug 21, 2003, 3:05 PM
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Moved to Climbing History & Trvia. ~Adam
I know my first onsight at JTree. :wink:
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curt
Aug 22, 2003, 7:29 PM
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In reply to: Some unknown free solo by an unnamed Morongo Indian. The first listed dates I know of are The Eye, 1957, Zigzag, 1956, Dick and Harold Webster. John Wolfe's 1970 guide book. This is really a Randy Vogel question. If anyone really knows, it would be him. We also found some evidence that the Keys kids scrambled to the top of some of the formations above their ranch. Old jars, etc.
I can't find anything earlier than Zigzag either. However, I think the early climbing days in JT were never documented. John wolfe tells a story of being at JT in the mid-1950s and running into other climbers.
Curt
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crotch
Aug 22, 2003, 7:44 PM
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In reply to: I can't find anything earlier than Zigzag either. However, I think the early climbing days in JT were never documented.
And what an awful first choice for first documented route. ZigZag? Almost anything else in the area would have been a better choice.
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rockitjeff
Sep 8, 2003, 1:39 AM
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Mike Loughman (he's the guy who wrote that Sierra Club book on how to rockclimb... cover photo shows his wife stemming the opening moves to Mid-term)... he got talking of the great old days.. and how honed Robbins was, and Mike told me in all honesty he was at Hidden Valley Campground in the late 50's and saw Robbins free-solo the Lower Right Ski Track on Intersection Rock...
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fredbob
Sep 8, 2003, 3:27 AM
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Unfortunately, this seems to be a question to which we may never know the answer. In discussions I had with Robbins many years ago, it is clear that many of the routes in Hidden Valley that were climbed (even aided) in the 60s by locals (Wolfe, the Websters, Stark, Briggs, etc.) were actually climbed in the 1950s and early 60s by Tahquitz locals. But it seems that no one took the climbing at Josh seriously enough to record what was done.
Also, some climbing was going on in Josh in the 1940s. According to Wolfe's 1976 guide:The FA of NW side of Wedge was climbed in June 1956 by Jack Davis, Bruce Fortine & Rod Smith. A bolt ladder was put up on The Lost Pencil also in 1956 and The Pope's Hat in 1956.
I have heard rumors of an early Joshua Tree route "guide" (pre 1970 Wolfe guide). But, either it never existed or it was some mimeo type guide that only a few copies were printed and no copies have survived. I still hold out hope that a copy may turn up some day (like the 1937 Tahquitz Guide for which 1 copy did show up within the last 2 years).
If this first Josh guide were to turn up, it might answer some of these questions.
Here's a quiz:
1. Name the First Poodle Route.
2. Where did the name come from?
3. Name this 12d thin crack within walking distance of Hidden Valley.
4. What is the story behind the name?
Randy
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curt
Sep 8, 2003, 3:49 AM
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Randy,
I would offer Asteriod Crack, as a guess to your question #3. However, I could offer only a WILD guess as to the origins.
Curt
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fredbob
Sep 8, 2003, 4:17 AM
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In reply to: I would offer Asteriod Crack, as a guess to your question #3. However, I could offer only a WILD guess as to the origins.
BZZZZT.
Anyone? BVB?
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 8, 2003, 4:35 AM
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In reply to: 3. Name this 12d thin crack within walking distance of Hidden Valley.
I heard Kauk free'd "Brown Out" at 12d, don't know if it ever ended up in a guide.
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ride
Sep 8, 2003, 6:37 AM
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1) Poodles are People too...?
2) cause uh.... someone saved some old womans poodle that day? :?
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thegreytradster
Sep 8, 2003, 2:47 PM
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1. Poodles Are People Too
2. Gus the Poodle
3. Desert Shield
4. Don't have a clue
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elgecko
Sep 8, 2003, 4:03 PM
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3. Name this 12d thin crack within walking distance of Hidden Valley.
Moonbeam Crack?
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rockitjeff
Sep 8, 2003, 6:25 PM
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Speaking of obscure early guidebooks, can anybody besides fredbob tell me who authored the “Toad’s Guide”, when it was penned and to what climbing area?
I bet I still have my mimeographed copy in a dark, dusty file…
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fredbob
Sep 8, 2003, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: 1) Poodles are People too...? 2) cause uh.... someone saved some old womans poodle that day?
Right as to the first question.
In reply to: 1. Poodles Are People Too 2. Gus the Poodle
Right, on both counts. Pretty easy questions as the answers can be found at climbingjtree.com.
In reply to: 3. Desert Shield
BZZZT. Desert Shield is neither a crack nor 12d (maybe 13b).
In reply to: I heard Kauk free'd "Brown Out" at 12d, don't know if it ever ended up in a guide.
BZZZT. Good guess though, cause it is 12d thin crackish route (even though rated only 12b/c in the guide).
In reply to: 3. ....Moonbeam Crack?
BZZZT. Not a bad guess, but it is 13a.
BTW, Curt's guess was very good one too since Asteroid Crack is a very thin crack and is 12d.
In reply to: Speaking of obscure early guidebooks, can anybody besides fredbob tell me who authored the “Toad’s Guideâ€, when it was penned and to what climbing area? I bet I still have my mimeographed copy in a dark, dusty file…
Jeff, save that guide! It is definitely a collector's item.
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curt
Sep 8, 2003, 6:57 PM
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In reply to: BTW, Curt's guess was very good one too since Asteroid Crack is a very thin crack and is 12d.
What disqualifies my answer then? How far can you walk these days--anyway? Hahaha. OK, then--how about Acid Crack?
Curt
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fredbob
Sep 8, 2003, 11:28 PM
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In reply to: OK, then--how about Acid Crack?
Curt is right! But what about the next question....
In reply to: 4.. What is the story behind the name?
The first person to get it right gets a coupon for one FREE copy of Vol. 1 of the new Josh guide.***
*** void where prohibited; not honored at any retailer; available only from the author [when received from publisher]; employees of Department of Homeland Security may not enter.
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curt
Sep 8, 2003, 11:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: OK, then--how about Acid Crack? Curt is right! But what about the next question.... In reply to: 4.. What is the story behind the name? The first person to get it right gets a coupon for one FREE copy of Vol. 1 of the new Josh guide.*** *** void where prohibited; not honored at any retailer; available only from the author [when received from publisher]; employees of Department of Homeland Security may not enter.
I'll say the route name derives from LSD?
Curt
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rvega
Sep 8, 2003, 11:56 PM
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I really want that guide but I'm completely shooting in the dark here. Does it have to do with acid testing the rock?
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fredbob
Sep 8, 2003, 11:57 PM
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In reply to: I'll say the route name derives from LSD?
You are going to have to do a lot better than that.
In reply to: I really want that guide but I'm completely shooting in the dark here. Does it have to do with acid testing the rock?
BZZZT
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rvega
Sep 9, 2003, 12:00 AM
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What about the fact that lizards excrete uric acid? There are a lot of lizards there. I know that sounds pretty retarded, but hey who cares.
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rvega
Sep 9, 2003, 12:01 AM
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Heartburn while on the climb? Acid reflux sucks!
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rvega
Sep 9, 2003, 12:03 AM
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I have always noticed that the rock at JT made my hands burn like crazy. Was it that? The "acid-like" burn from rock? Anything? Am I getting warm?
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fredbob
Sep 9, 2003, 12:11 AM
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In reply to: Am I getting warm?
Stone cold.
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rvega
Sep 9, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Hmmmm, what about....I'm drawing a blank but I did think your "stone cold" was a funny pun. Ummm, let's see does it have to do with adjacent climbs? Is it a "well I name that one base climb so I'm call this one acid climb, ha ha ha."
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