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hatice
Jul 30, 2003, 3:47 AM
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I dont know the answer to this just thought some of you more experianced posters will know this....What is the hardest route (rating...ex. 11b) ever completed by a climber... might be a dumb question but im just curious
Thanx
-Cheers, Graham
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tarzan420
Jul 30, 2003, 3:57 AM
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There are plenty of 5.14d's, and a handful of climbs supposedly 5.15, even though many of these ratings seem to not be given by the climber themself (five-ten marketing department, anyone?)
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xanx
Jul 30, 2003, 4:36 AM
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ok before someone makes fun of you...
(sorry about the butchered names!!)
Hardest Routes (all unconfirmed and unrepeated)
Realization, 5.15a, Chris Sharma
Orujo, 5.15a, Fernandez
La Rambla, 5.15a, Ramon Julian
Akira, 5.15b, Fred Rouhling
Chilam Balam, 5.15c, Fernandez
Flat Mountain, 5.14d/5.15a, Yuji Hirayama
Many 5.14d's (action directe by Wolfgang Gullich, Intermezzo and Vakuumgeist by Klem Loskot, The Fly by Dave Graham, OM, ect...)
Hardest boulder problems (again, all but 2 unconfirmed)
Dreamtime, V15, Fred Nicole (confirmed, repeated by Dave Graham, Christian Core, Bernd Zangerl, Chris Sharma, Thomas Willenberg)
Black Eagle Sitdown, v15, Fred Nicole
New Base Line, v15, Bernd Zangerl (confirmed, repeated by Dave Graham, Fred Nicole)
Viva La Evolution, v15, Bernd Zangerl
Walk Away Sit start, v15, John Gaskins
Banshousha, v15, Tokio Muroi
Gossip, v15, Markus Bock
Trip Hop, v15, Sebastian Frigault
Tranzdendenz, v15, Thomas Willenberg
The Never Ending Story link, v15?, Chris Sharma
Morpheus, Project...
*DISCLAIMER* To my knowledge this is a complete and accurate list. some of it is just what i heard other people on this site tell me, so i have no idea if it is accurate. Other information i have found on other websites which may not be up to date, so sorry if it isn't all accurate. Also, before you flame me, i am just answering the guy's question based on what i know. sheesh.
EDIT: See akd's post below. I edited this one to try and keep everything in one list.
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akd
Jul 30, 2003, 5:33 AM
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Actually, there's also the new route of Yuji Hirayama, Flat Mountain, a long project for which the author proposed a 9a/9a+ grade.
Dreamtime was also repeated by Thomas Willenberg, FA of Transdendenz,a problem that costed him more effort than Dreamtime, thus he rated it 8C (V15).
Lastly, recently Chris Sharma linked two problems in the so called Magic Wood (the never ending story 1 +2, or in Deutsch, Die unendliche geschichte eins und zwei), that are rated 8A+ and 8B/+, respectively...
It's a pity what Xanx had to write in order that no one could flame him. It only shows the self-sufficient and arrogant attitude of some people that have nothing more important to do than criticize a person who is trying to exchange information on extra-hard sends, besides that they've tried those problems or not. It seems that whenever you write about something, you better have proofs that you did what you're talking about, or be seated next to a lawyer that confirms the source where you get tho info from.... c'mon, give me a break.
ps: Xanx, a problem not ascended (whetter it was a joke from thomasriebe or not), hasn't got any grade, it's called "project", IMHO. The proposed grade is what every one of us gives to a route/boulder when we do a FA
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unabonger
Aug 8, 2003, 12:13 PM
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[quote="xanx"]
Many 5.14d's (action directe by Wolfgang Gullich, Intermezzo and Vakuumgeist by Klem Loskot, The Fly by Dave Graham, OM, ect...)
Thanks for the list but Action Directe (at least) has been repeated, um, repeatedly...
UnaBonger
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rwaltermyer
Aug 8, 2003, 12:32 PM
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maybe its too early but akd, I don't get your point or logic.
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zmehl
Aug 8, 2003, 2:57 PM
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Isn't Flex Luthor a proposed 5.15a? It was done by Tommy Caldwell at the Fortress of Solitude.
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deleted
Deleted
Aug 8, 2003, 4:33 PM
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Define hard...try climbing 13+ at altitude onsight. does women and chalk need to be up there?
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akd
Aug 8, 2003, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: maybe its too early but akd, I don't get your point or logic.
The answer from Xanx here, came after a couple of threads that involved discussions about Chilam Balam and Realization i.e., and he was flamed, thus the *DISCLAIMER*...
He was flamed by the typical self-sufficient guy that says that he couldn't care less, but, nevertheless, posts in the thread...; he was flame by the "ethical" great climbers of this site that say that you have to have sent the line/problem in order to talk about it (doesn't matter if you are only naming it), etc, etc...
So, while in some ocassions I haven't agreed with some things Xanx wrote, it's kinda sad that he has to write a "disclaimer" in order to prevent future flaming. Imagine if everyone that's gonna write about something that they haven't sent had to write such a disclaimer?
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rwaltermyer
Aug 8, 2003, 6:12 PM
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I see.
Well, I guess, but if the newbies would learn how to use the Search option we wouldn't have that problem.
But you're right.
Atleast it's in the proper forum room. Got to give some credit!!
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overlord
Aug 11, 2003, 12:13 PM
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In reply to: Isn't Flex Luthor a proposed 5.15a? It was done by Tommy Caldwell at the Fortress of Solitude.
yes, i believe it is proposed .15a.
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