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dr_feelgood
May 24, 2014, 6:52 PM
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amarius wrote: lena_chita wrote: One in particular was, like, the best gym route I have climbed in a few years. Or maybe ever! So far I figured out 4 ways to "crush" it, but I feel crushed each time I get to the top. Need to watch you climb it, but it will probably be gone by the time our visits sync
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snoopy138
May 26, 2014, 6:35 PM
Post #102527 of 105309
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amarius wrote: lena_chita wrote: One in particular was, like, the best gym route I have climbed in a few years. Or maybe ever! So far I figured out 4 ways to "crush" it, but I feel crushed each time I get to the top. Need to watch you climb it, but it will probably be gone by the time our visits sync
You seem to have missed teh thread title.
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camhead
May 27, 2014, 12:45 PM
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Holiday weakend is over, so now I can have a real weakend. Nothing out of the ordinary happened; hammocks, harnesses on in the oarking lot, trustafarian campers getting mad that they have to pay money. Just the usual.
I did see a guy belaying a route at Junkyard short-anchored into a tree that was 35 feet from the base of the route, the rope was running nearly horizontally toward the climber's first piece, which was about five feet off the ground. Tried to get a photo, but then he saw me and gave me a dirty look.
This whole spring has been amazing; only one weekend with shit weather (the weekend that should have been the 'Vous, not surprisingly), which is a rate unheard of at the NRG.
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granite_grrl
May 27, 2014, 1:12 PM
Post #102530 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Holiday weakend is over, so now I can have a real weakend. Nothing out of the ordinary happened; hammocks, harnesses on in the oarking lot, trustafarian campers getting mad that they have to pay money. Just the usual. I did see a guy belaying a route at Junkyard short-anchored into a tree that was 35 feet from the base of the route, the rope was running nearly horizontally toward the climber's first piece, which was about five feet off the ground. Tried to get a photo, but then he saw me and gave me a dirty look. This whole spring has been amazing; only one weekend with shit weather (the weekend that should have been the 'Vous, not surprisingly), which is a rate unheard of at the NRG.
I miss the 'vous. :(
It's too bad they're no longer doing it, but I get it. For those who were organizing it was a lot of work and that work was getting harder to take care of.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 27, 2014, 2:18 PM
Post #102531 of 105309
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amarius wrote: lena_chita wrote: One in particular was, like, the best gym route I have climbed in a few years. Or maybe ever! So far I figured out 4 ways to "crush" it, but I feel crushed each time I get to the top. Need to watch you climb it, but it will probably be gone by the time our visits sync
Hi, Marius! And now I am supposed to tell you to GTFO. 
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 27, 2014, 2:26 PM
Post #102532 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: Holiday weakend is over, so now I can have a real weakend. Nothing out of the ordinary happened; hammocks, harnesses on in the oarking lot, trustafarian campers getting mad that they have to pay money. Just the usual. I did see a guy belaying a route at Junkyard short-anchored into a tree that was 35 feet from the base of the route, the rope was running nearly horizontally toward the climber's first piece, which was about five feet off the ground. Tried to get a photo, but then he saw me and gave me a dirty look. This whole spring has been amazing; only one weekend with shit weather (the weekend that should have been the 'Vous, not surprisingly), which is a rate unheard of at the NRG. I miss the 'vous. :( It's too bad they're no longer doing it, but I get it. For those who were organizing it was a lot of work and that work was getting harder to take care of.
Yeah, I was looking forward to the 'Vous, too. Weird though that it was a bad weather weekend at the new. it was absolutely perfect at the Red that weekend.
Sounds like I missed good temps, as well as the crowds of gumbies this weekend. Next weekend is supposed to hit 90s on Sunday. Ugh! and uh-oh! Banz says he will go to the Red with me, but I am debating the reasonableness of it.
We spent the weekend gardening. And doing house chores. And more gardening. My backyard looks a lot better after Heffe put in some major effort into garden-bed building. I am looking forward to planting it, as soon as vermiculite shows up. I suppose I should have gone to the local farm and tractor supply store, instead of ordering online. The big-box stores don't carry that shit around here.
Heffe's father volunteered to help with the greenhouse. Which would be awesome, if it actually happens this year!
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lena_chita
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May 29, 2014, 6:29 PM
Post #102533 of 105309
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The graveyard is fully functioning. Gerks are dead. Long live the gerks? Maybe?
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granite_grrl
May 29, 2014, 7:21 PM
Post #102534 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: The graveyard is fully functioning. Gerks are dead. Long live the gerks? Maybe?
*waves*
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lena_chita
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May 29, 2014, 7:38 PM
Post #102535 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: The graveyard is fully functioning. Gerks are dead. Long live the gerks? Maybe? *waves*
Oh good! I thought everyone succumbed to the heat wave, or something. how could it be 90F this weekend at the Red? NOT FAIR!!!!
Banz is now officially starting the new cycle of starvation and hanging bored.
I guess the positive side of it is that I will catch up on my garden and house chores, go dancing, and maybe find out what my non-climbing friends are doing. It is a bit of a stretch, admittedly, but it could happen.
Need to set another route at the gym on Friday, too.
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cracklover
May 29, 2014, 8:16 PM
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lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee! Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas! That is awl. GO Didn't know you were moving? How far and how soon? Congrats to Alison for teh s3nd!
Okay, now I can reply - the site's been fucked up all day, and only now lets me post.
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.
Allison also crushed in the Creek. Sending three 11s - Scarface, Three Strikes You're Out, and Power Play. Go her!
In udder news from the Creek, I finally got my big mitts to stick well enough in Way Rambo to let me send. Going tapeless was key. Got totally crushed by Power Line, though. What a sweet climb. Got a bit closer when I went with bare feet and taped toes, but still nowhere near strong enough for that shit. A lot closer on Digital Readout. But holy hell that destroys my fingers on the parts where they'll actually fit.
GO
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cracklover
May 29, 2014, 8:20 PM
Post #102537 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee! Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas! That is awl. GO You guys staying local or moving moving?
You lost your chance(s) unless you head back east again too.
Actually, we'll be around another few weeks, but we're going to be pretty crazy busy. Would still be nice to meet up though. We're heading to ET in Golden this afternoon/evening if you want to come play.
GO
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granite_grrl
May 30, 2014, 11:58 AM
Post #102538 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: The graveyard is fully functioning. Gerks are dead. Long live the gerks? Maybe? *waves* Oh good! I thought everyone succumbed to the heat wave, or something. how could it be 90F this weekend at the Red? NOT FAIR!!!! Banz is now officially starting the new cycle of starvation and hanging bored. I guess the positive side of it is that I will catch up on my garden and house chores, go dancing, and maybe find out what my non-climbing friends are doing. It is a bit of a stretch, admittedly, but it could happen. Need to set another route at the gym on Friday, too.
It's been lovely up here....except for the black flies, but what can you do.
Got 140km on my road bike last week. So far only have 40km this week unless I can manage to get out tonight (which at best will only give me another 30km).
I was going to try to get at least 100km on the road bike a week, which is ambitious and I'm not 100% sure if I can make that happen (and still go climbing on Thursday evenings).
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granite_grrl
May 30, 2014, 12:00 PM
Post #102539 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee! Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas! That is awl. GO Didn't know you were moving? How far and how soon? Congrats to Alison for teh s3nd! Okay, now I can reply - the site's been fucked up all day, and only now lets me post. Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks. Allison also crushed in the Creek. Sending three 11s - Scarface, Three Strikes You're Out, and Power Play. Go her! In udder news from the Creek, I finally got my big mitts to stick well enough in Way Rambo to let me send. Going tapeless was key. Got totally crushed by Power Line, though. What a sweet climb. Got a bit closer when I went with bare feet and taped toes, but still nowhere near strong enough for that shit. A lot closer on Digital Readout. But holy hell that destroys my fingers on the parts where they'll actually fit. GO
I find the Gunks difficult in the summer. That rock really bennifits from lower humidity.
How long do you think you'll be stuck out there for?
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granite_grrl
May 30, 2014, 1:30 PM
Post #102540 of 105309
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WEEEEE!!!!
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 30, 2014, 1:30 PM
Post #102541 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee! Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas! That is awl. GO Didn't know you were moving? How far and how soon? Congrats to Alison for teh s3nd! Okay, now I can reply - the site's been fucked up all day, and only now lets me post. Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks. Allison also crushed in the Creek. Sending three 11s - Scarface, Three Strikes You're Out, and Power Play. Go her! In udder news from the Creek, I finally got my big mitts to stick well enough in Way Rambo to let me send. Going tapeless was key. Got totally crushed by Power Line, though. What a sweet climb. Got a bit closer when I went with bare feet and taped toes, but still nowhere near strong enough for that shit. A lot closer on Digital Readout. But holy hell that destroys my fingers on the parts where they'll actually fit. GO
Rumney is 3.5 hours from Yale, I don't know what you are whining about.
Congrats to Alison, Yale postdoc is an impressive achievement. Hopefully it turns out to be every bit as good as it sounds.
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granite_grrl
May 30, 2014, 1:30 PM
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Nathan and I are going to go to Canada's Wonderland this weekend!
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lena_chita
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May 30, 2014, 3:05 PM
Post #102543 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: Nathan and I are going to go to Canada's Wonderland this weekend!
I managed to avoid those kinds of places until now. I hope you have fun! (I guess...)
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granite_grrl
May 30, 2014, 3:45 PM
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Nathan and I are going to go to Canada's Wonderland this weekend! I managed to avoid those kinds of places until now. I hope you have fun! (I guess...)
Not your cup of tea I take it?
16 ROLLERCOASTERS WOOOOO!
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 30, 2014, 5:28 PM
Post #102545 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Nathan and I are going to go to Canada's Wonderland this weekend! I managed to avoid those kinds of places until now. I hope you have fun! (I guess...) Not your cup of tea I take it? 16 ROLLERCOASTERS WOOOOO!
I know they say, don't knock it until you try it. and I was actually cautiously open to the idea when Banz wanted to go to Cedar Point a couple of years back. But we never made those plans, and I really don't want to pay a lot of money to stand in long lines under hot sun for a chance to ride for 2 minutes on the thing that drops you from heights.
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caughtinside
May 30, 2014, 5:29 PM
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Power line is nasty. I got like 8 feet on that thing on toprope.
3 strikes was hard too, although I remember doing it end of the day. Desert corners are more work than fun I think.
Nice going on way Rambo. I think it only has like 12 feet of hard climbing. I would have liked a second go on it but a big crew showed up and wanted to do it.
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caughtinside
May 30, 2014, 5:31 PM
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Damn shame about the Connecticut thing though!
But it is an honor and some people are in to that whole east coast thing.
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cracklover
May 30, 2014, 5:52 PM
Post #102548 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee! Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas! That is awl. GO Didn't know you were moving? How far and how soon? Congrats to Alison for teh s3nd! Okay, now I can reply - the site's been fucked up all day, and only now lets me post. Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks. Allison also crushed in the Creek. Sending three 11s - Scarface, Three Strikes You're Out, and Power Play. Go her! In udder news from the Creek, I finally got my big mitts to stick well enough in Way Rambo to let me send. Going tapeless was key. Got totally crushed by Power Line, though. What a sweet climb. Got a bit closer when I went with bare feet and taped toes, but still nowhere near strong enough for that shit. A lot closer on Digital Readout. But holy hell that destroys my fingers on the parts where they'll actually fit. GO I find the Gunks difficult in the summer. That rock really bennifits from lower humidity. How long do you think you'll be stuck out there for?
Iz troo about the humidity thing out East. Oh well.
So... postdoc will probably be like 4 or 5 years, and then she'll look for a job. Most pharma industry is Northeast, Cali, or Europe. All our family is in the NE, so that's most likely where we'll set up long term. But the other options are certainly intriguing to me, too. If we have a kid we'll prob want family around. If not, I'd still like to be back east as long as my parents are alive, to help look after them. After that, all bets are off.
GO
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cracklover
May 30, 2014, 6:38 PM
Post #102549 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee! Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas! That is awl. GO Didn't know you were moving? How far and how soon? Congrats to Alison for teh s3nd! Okay, now I can reply - the site's been fucked up all day, and only now lets me post. Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks. Allison also crushed in the Creek. Sending three 11s - Scarface, Three Strikes You're Out, and Power Play. Go her! In udder news from the Creek, I finally got my big mitts to stick well enough in Way Rambo to let me send. Going tapeless was key. Got totally crushed by Power Line, though. What a sweet climb. Got a bit closer when I went with bare feet and taped toes, but still nowhere near strong enough for that shit. A lot closer on Digital Readout. But holy hell that destroys my fingers on the parts where they'll actually fit. GO Rumney is 3.5 hours from Yale, I don't know what you are whining about.
Go move to the Front Range for a few years and then you'll see what I'm whining about. 3.5 hours away is a fucking pain in the ass compared to getting in a half-dozen pitches in the afternoon.
But we don't actually need to go as far as Rumney for moderately decent sport - it's around two hours to Farley.
In reply to: Congrats to Alison, Yale postdoc is an impressive achievement. Hopefully it turns out to be every bit as good as it sounds.
Yeah, she's the smart and motivated one of the two of us.
GO
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cracklover
May 30, 2014, 6:51 PM
Post #102550 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: Power line is nasty. I got like 8 feet on that thing on toprope.
Power Line is cool as shit. Just really fucking hard. I'm at the point in my climbing where I can pretty much ringlock on tight green camalots on a vertical splitter till the cows come home. But when it drops to .5s or .4s, I'm screwed unless there's something for my feet.
In reply to: 3 strikes was hard too, although I remember doing it end of the day. Desert corners are more work than fun I think.
Depends - if you try to layback the whole thing, yeah. If you can work the feet and get halfway decent jams, it's pretty damn fun. Though I will admit that after Allison led Quarter of a Man, I thought it wise to let her clean it on the way down, rather than following it. 120 feet of greens and reds, whether in a corner or straight in, is definitely a lot of work. I've sent it before, and I wanted to save my strength for something else. Great line, though.
In reply to: Nice going on way Rambo. I think it only has like 12 feet of hard climbing. I would have liked a second go on it but a big crew showed up and wanted to do it.
Totally agree on the 12 feet of hard climbing. And yeah, the trouble is it's by far the best route at the crag, and the only good hard route there, so it does get gangbanged a lot.
While you were there, did you get on Chest Full of Kind? Short, but super-fun.
GO
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