Yeah, antibiotics are scary. But what are you going to do, for kidney infection? I try not to think too much about antibiotic use associated with breast cancer, and all this other stuff... when you have to take them, you have to. Or you might not live long enough to get breast cancer. But yeah, it is definitely not something to be taken lightly. And the attitude is really changing, slowly, but it is. When D. was a baby, the dr was of the "here, I will write you a prescription now, take it just in case". By the time A. came along, it was more of a "wait a few days, it might get better on it's own"

I hope those probiotics help. I always tried to take some probiotics after finishing a course of antibiotics. But I don't take them regularly.

Things I have read all say that it is really hard to repopulate the gut flora, and those probiotics improve things as long as you are taking them, but rarely result in the bacteria permanently repopulating the guts, so you have to keep taking probiotics for a long time. E.i. they just come out with the poop, instead of staying in your intestines, if you don't keep taking the probiotics to continuously replenish things. But while they are there, they do make things better.

There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff.

Was supposed to do a full day out today but my partner called yesterday and is leaving on a last minute trip to the Fins tomorrow. Bouldering instead today. Jealous bouldering.

That would explain why things one got gradually better after getting off antibiotics the first time. I only had a bottle of 30 probiotics to start with, and I popped one a few hours each time I took an antibiotic....and then for a while after I finished antibiotics. Needless to say the first bottle didn't last long.

This pack is another pack of 30, so I'll just take one a day until they're gone again. Hopefully things will be significantly better in a month.

I read a few other things while I was taking antibiotics the first time. The one study said that things recovered after one course of antibiotics, but if you have to take a second course within a few month your gut was pretty fucked.

Intestinal bacteria is remarkably important. I had some GI issues after my trip to the bugs (damn you, twizzlers!), and probiotics basically made life tolerable... especially if I chased the probiotics with some sugar water.

There is a lot of interesting stuff on gut flora. I mean actual research, and no just the popular writing from people who are trying to sell you stuff shit.

We know what you really meant...


Fixied. And it's the truth: Sausage Made With Bacteria From Baby Poop Isn’t as Gross as It Sounds

GO

Haha. I love when people are trying to explain science to those tho don't understand it. " The bacteria was ISOLATED from poop. By the time it i grown and makes it back into pills (or sausages) there is no carryover of the original material"

The people who go "ewww, gross", are probably typing it on the computer keyboard that have more live fecal bacteria than those sausages.

Making a sausage with it sort of defeats the purpose though. If you cook the sausage, you cook the bugs, too! If you don't cook the sausage enough to kill the good bugs, you risk also not killing Salmonella, and other crap shit.

You just keep pitching me these softballs, how can I not keep swinging at them? I do hope this time you did it on purpose. If so, that was a nice gift.

GO

So In an effort to gain recognition in Ontario for competitive ice climbing Nathan and I will be hosting a small figure 4 comp at a local climbing festival.

Get to the end (or do well) you'll get a beer. Proceeds go to the local access organization. So far we had to build the structure and the best I could do was get 50% off the beer, which will makes it $1.40 a can.

Hopefully this event actually makes some money for the access coalition and gets us some recognition. I've never been to this event before (it's only in it's second year) so it might be a flop. We'll see!

Hopefully not a flop. That's a fair bit of work though. Good for you guys.

*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

Oh, it counts (let's see if this statement makes jack out of hiding!)

I mean, hard to track progress without paying attention to this kind of stuff.

Nice werk, both you and the chickens.

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve.

*disclaimer- this is all gym talk so we all know it doesn't really count anyway*

3 weeks away from the first round of competition and last night I onsighted my first 11a. That means I'm two full number grades above where I started 6 weeks ago. Which is both good, and frustrating because I'm still improving so I feel like I won't truly be at my best in Spain if there's room to improve. Kicking myself for not taking the seriously starting in April or some such. But, it's nice to feel strong and to feel the work paying off. Outside of bagging 14ers I'm not doing any cross training, just climbing x4 a week.

Heading up to boulder canyon this weekend so we'll see if any of this makes a difference in the real world!

The garden is suffering from my absence but the chickens are up to 4 eggs a day!

Nice!

This is not necessarily something to be frustrated about. Everyone plateaus in their fitness and training at some opint, and it is VERY likely that you'll just reach a peak around the time you get to Spain. If you had a few years of training under your belt, and knew how your peaks and plateaus worked, that would be better, but it sounds like you're in a good place to be going to the comp in three weeks. Keep at it, don't overtrain, and when you add the mental psych of being in competition, you'll crush!

Nice!

This is not necessarily something to be frustrated about. Everyone plateaus in their fitness and training at some opint, and it is VERY likely that you'll just reach a peak around the time you get to Spain. If you had a few years of training under your belt, and knew how your peaks and plateaus worked, that would be better, but it sounds like you're in a good place to be going to the comp in three weeks. Keep at it, don't overtrain, and when you add the mental psych of being in competition, you'll crush!

Not over training is a big one when you're this close!

Will there be any live streaming?

good werk!

I'm not in terrible rock climbing shape, but I'm not in as good of shape as I was last year (almost, not quite though). But that's okay, but unlike Mo, a big reason for this is that I started my training for Ice Climbing World Cup over a month ago.

I'll still be slaughtered in the comps by the top end people, but I hope to climb respectably.

are you doing ouray or just Bozeman? If you're there I'd probably go to ouray to cheer you guys on, otherwise id go on a quieter weekend.

Did you see they're going to build a massive ice park near vail?!?

Speaking of training, I'm still in the power/max recruitment phase of my training. Was able to do some cool stuff at City, but am definitely not at my peak right now. Fortunately, I've been able to get to a gym every other day, and the campusing is really improving quickly!

The local gym near my folks' place in Logan is kind of mediocre; not great porbelms, infested with blond Mormons and their kids, and the campus bored does not even have consistent spacing. But, it still works. Yesterday I was in SLC for a book tawk, and dropped into the new Momentum gym there. That place has the best training set up I've ever seen; an entire second floor with a full weight room, two giant systems walls, six hangboreds including the Moon and Beastmakers 1000 and 2000, and six different sizes of 9 rung campus boreds with Metolius spacing. It was amazing; wish I had something like that in Fayettenam. Managed to finally do the fabled 1-5-9 campus move, although it was on really big holds, so not a big deal.

Hey Mo, it's tomato season up here, picked up a half bushel of Roma's last weekend for $13. Lovely big guys too.

I've been curious about making ketchup since you talked about it here a while ago, but I'm also thinking it's going to be too much effort if I have to skin them by hand, and WAY too much effort if I need to remove the skins.

How many tomatoes do you use for a batch? I don't go through that much ketchup in a year anyway.