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jammer
Apr 9, 2008, 5:49 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: bdbc wrote: oh, and epoch, i've been looking at that route for a while too, its a really nice line.  Just ignore the approach outlined in the 'New England Falcon Guide'. It will take you straight up the side of Cannon on the descent trail.  I know this for a fact.
Most of the work is getting to the base! The climb is sweet, if you start early. There usually is a long line if you get there late and then you are held up all day waiting for slower parties. The views are excellent, belay stations large and it is all worth it, if you have the patience. The walk off can be done at night, even though it can be very tricky, so be sure to bring your head lamp if you are getting a late start. I really enjoyed this route!
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losbill
Apr 10, 2008, 1:10 AM
Post #104 of 507
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Excuse me!!!
Perhaps you all forget. I am the Grand Poohbah of Friday Trad day!!! I am stunned by the effrontery of all of you making plans for WGR!!! All the more so when one of you is a damn Down Eastern!!!
Moby will be done. There is no more to be said!
More seriously I'm good to go for whatever.
Hey Notch!!!! Where the heck are you guy???? Have this image of you wandering around in endlessly in desert canyons doing one climb after another living on cactus pulp. Nice to hear you are home. Drop me an email and let me know what is going on.
Regarding the religious aspect of the event, as usual I am planning on climbing in my robes and collar and saying Mass every morning at the campsite.
God Bless,
Father Bill
PS
Jake watch that potty mouth of yours! I will be expecting you in the confessional tent.
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jammer
Apr 10, 2008, 1:47 AM
Post #105 of 507
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losbill wrote: Excuse me!!! pharmboy wrote: jammer wrote: Most of the work is getting to the base! The climb is sweet, if you start early. There usually is a long line if you get there late and then you are held up all day waiting for slower parties. The views are excellent, belay stations large and it is all worth it, if you have the patience. The walk off can be done at night, even though it can be very tricky, so be sure to bring your head lamp if you are getting a late start. I really enjoyed this route! Hey Al... what do you say we plan on WGR for Friday? You usually have to hang out at the camping area, but not so this year! Perhaps you all forget. I am the Grand Poohbah of Friday Trad day!!! I am stunned by the effrontery of all of you making plans for WGR!!! All the more so when one of you is a damn Down Eastern!!! Moby will be done. There is no more to be said! More seriously I'm good to go for whatever. Hey Notch!!!! Where the heck are you guy???? Have this image of you wandering around in endlessly in desert canyons doing one climb after another living on cactus pulp. Nice to hear you are home. Drop me an email and let me know what is going on. Regarding the religious aspect of the event, as usual I am planning on climbing in my robes and collar and saying Mass every morning at the campsite. God Bless, Father Bill PS Jake watch that potty mouth of yours! I will be expecting you in the confessional tent.
Why don't we just take over Cannon? If the whole tribe shows up, nobody would even consider being around a bunch of wacked climbers, and the whole place will be OURS!!! ... just a though ...
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c4c
Apr 10, 2008, 2:29 AM
Post #106 of 507
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jammer wrote: losbill wrote: Excuse me!!! pharmboy wrote: jammer wrote: Most of the work is getting to the base! The climb is sweet, if you start early. There usually is a long line if you get there late and then you are held up all day waiting for slower parties. The views are excellent, belay stations large and it is all worth it, if you have the patience. The walk off can be done at night, even though it can be very tricky, so be sure to bring your head lamp if you are getting a late start. I really enjoyed this route! Hey Al... what do you say we plan on WGR for Friday? You usually have to hang out at the camping area, but not so this year! Perhaps you all forget. I am the Grand Poohbah of Friday Trad day!!! I am stunned by the effrontery of all of you making plans for WGR!!! All the more so when one of you is a damn Down Eastern!!! Moby will be done. There is no more to be said! More seriously I'm good to go for whatever. Hey Notch!!!! Where the heck are you guy???? Have this image of you wandering around in endlessly in desert canyons doing one climb after another living on cactus pulp. Nice to hear you are home. Drop me an email and let me know what is going on. Regarding the religious aspect of the event, as usual I am planning on climbing in my robes and collar and saying Mass every morning at the campsite. God Bless, Father Bill PS Jake watch that potty mouth of yours! I will be expecting you in the confessional tent. Why don't we just take over Cannon? If the whole tribe shows up, nobody would even consider being around a bunch of wacked climbers, and the whole place will be OURS!!! ... just a though ...
Lets hold a church service! that ought to clear things out real fast! Especially if Bill officiates.
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wonderwoman
Apr 10, 2008, 5:22 PM
Post #108 of 507
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jakedatc wrote: losbill wrote: Jake watch that potty mouth of yours! I will be expecting you in the confessional tent. Fuck that shit  (disclaimer: not confessional in general for those who practice.. just the congruence of it and I.. uhh no)
What's the matter, Jake? Are you afraid you might be converted into a Born Again Trad Climber? 
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jakedatc
Apr 11, 2008, 12:00 AM
Post #109 of 507
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people with stronger convictions have tried.. i have gear and occasionally use it but changing my sport roots will probably not happen any time soon
Anyone been up near there recently? 'Biner wants me to help her with some group but i think it might still be soggy and ice falling down all over
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jammer
Apr 11, 2008, 12:52 AM
Post #110 of 507
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Nope. I will say that there is still snow in the woods around here, so I can imagine that there will still be some in the ascent and decent. I'm not positive, but the rock may still be seeping from the top. Just a guess ...
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losbill
Apr 11, 2008, 1:34 AM
Post #111 of 507
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Okay Jake, that's it! Unless you say a rosary or do some other really heavy penance of some sort you are going to be experiencing major league penalty slack the next time I belay you!!!! If I were you I wouldn't be planning to pitch off your "cruise" up MF.
Regarding choice of routes for Cannon we should be good to go with regard to "spring rock fall" on either WGR or Moby. Regarding wetness I don't think we will be dealing with spring seep on Moby in June. However it is my impression WGR dries out much more quickly than Moby after precipitation so that maybe a factor.
Another option is a variation off Wiessner's Dike a friend and I linked up last year. Some controversy exists regarding grading of the theoretical crux pitch. Both Bob and I felt it went at 5.7 something. Some Cannon regulars call it a 5.9. It is a good outing and perhaps we could straighten out the grading by getting some more people up it.
Father Bill
PS
Tiff--
Please let's not be confusing Roman Catholics with BACs! Some might consider it heresy and we all know that is serious business with the RC Church. Can we spell Inquisition?
-- Bill
PSS
Is it me, or does any mention of religion on the internet really bring out the wackos, present company excluded of course?
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cracklover
Apr 11, 2008, 1:50 AM
Post #112 of 507
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jammer wrote: So we all can see how this is shaping up, I edited the OP to include a list of those who said they will be there and those who are thinking about it. If your name is not there, and you want to be counted, you can PM me. I don't read every post here, so I might miss someone if I don't get a PM.
Well I said I was coming (and Allison's in too) like the second post in the last thread. Do I have to keep following the posts around and posting incessantly to be included? (not that there's anything wrong with that)
GO
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jakedatc
Apr 11, 2008, 2:13 AM
Post #113 of 507
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cracklover wrote: jammer wrote: So we all can see how this is shaping up, I edited the OP to include a list of those who said they will be there and those who are thinking about it. If your name is not there, and you want to be counted, you can PM me. I don't read every post here, so I might miss someone if I don't get a PM. Well I said I was coming (and Allison's in too) like the second post in the last thread. Do I have to keep following the posts around and posting incessantly to be included? (not that there's anything wrong with that) GO
hell no.. just show up and promise you won't make me clean Gunboat again... cuz.. i won't ;) (tho i'm not sure if you want to lead it again)
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jammer
Apr 11, 2008, 12:34 PM
Post #114 of 507
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cracklover wrote: jammer wrote: So we all can see how this is shaping up, I edited the OP to include a list of those who said they will be there and those who are thinking about it. If your name is not there, and you want to be counted, you can PM me. I don't read every post here, so I might miss someone if I don't get a PM. Well I said I was coming (and Allison's in too) like the second post in the last thread. Do I have to keep following the posts around and posting incessantly to be included? (not that there's anything wrong with that) GO
Sorry Gabe! I thought I had included everyone, but you know how it is, when you miss someone, it's usually the first in line!
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epoch
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Apr 11, 2008, 1:52 PM
Post #115 of 507
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To get away from the above conversation.
Myself, having never been to Rumney, I am looking now for the guidbook and am finding it really hard to come by. Granted, I never expected the shops here in Maine to have it. Portland and Augusta EMS don't carry it, Mainesport in Rockland doesn't have it. My sweep through Conway last week on my way back from Mt. Washington left me empty-handed too.
I heard that there is a revision in the works and am curious as to when it will come out, or even if I can get one. I am sure that there will be enough of us around to show newbs to the area, such as myself, the climbs to do...
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stride
Apr 11, 2008, 2:00 PM
Post #116 of 507
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I have never been to Rumney either. Is there a recommended guide (if there are more than one)?
Also, whats the climbing like? Most of my sport climbing has been down south (Red and New) and at my previously local sport crag in PA.
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cracklover
Apr 11, 2008, 4:06 PM
Post #117 of 507
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jammer wrote: cracklover wrote: jammer wrote: So we all can see how this is shaping up, I edited the OP to include a list of those who said they will be there and those who are thinking about it. If your name is not there, and you want to be counted, you can PM me. I don't read every post here, so I might miss someone if I don't get a PM. Well I said I was coming (and Allison's in too) like the second post in the last thread. Do I have to keep following the posts around and posting incessantly to be included? (not that there's anything wrong with that) GO Sorry Gabe! I thought I had included everyone, but you know how it is, when you miss someone, it's usually the first in line!
Thanks, man, no worries. Totally looking forward to it.
And Jake - not a chance. I may not be the quickest learner, but I do get the picture eventually. And the picture of that climb does *not* have me on it.
Don't know exactly when the new Rumney guidebook is coming out, though the last rumors I heard said this Fall. So you might want to hold off on getting a copy of the old one (if you even can) for now. Pretty much everyone else at the event will have one, so you should have no problem finding the routes you want. In the meantime, the routes db here is okay. Not as good as the GB, but the pictures and descriptions should give you at least a general idea.
Anyway, short answer to what the climbing is like:
Multiple small crags scattered over the side of a small mountain. Most faces have 10-20 climbs on them (though some, like Main Cliff and Waimea have a lot more). Walking between crags is typically 0-15 minutes. Bolts are well maintained and closely spaced. Almost all routes are only one pitch. The majority of the climbs are probably in the 5.10-5.12 range, but there are probably hundreds above and below that, if that's your fancy. The style of climbing is facey and medium-steep. The rock is schist - a grainy and wavy type that doesn't take natural pro well, but with lots of crystals of quartz, feldspar, and mica, that make the rock very grippy, almost to the point of being a little sharp at times.
If you've never been, it's definitely a worthwhile sport destination.
Hope to see lots of you there!
Cheers,
GO
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jakedatc
Apr 11, 2008, 4:13 PM
Post #118 of 507
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Old guidebook is out of print.. New guidebook supposedly scheduled to be released late spring early summer according to Ward and Bob Bruemme
Mountain project has a decent data base that has a lot of info and pictures
http://mountainproject.com/...ire/rumney/105867829
A bunch of us are about as good as a guidebook (and have the old one) so there should be no problems finding someone to show you where things are etc. There are many many routes that aren't in the old book too.. so going by a stock old book gets you into almost as much trouble as not having one at all :) "this feels really hard for a 5.7!!"
If there is a specific grade or type of route you wanna get on just ask.. between the folks who have posted here we have done a shizit ton of routes from 5.2 up to .12sumtin
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c4c
Apr 11, 2008, 6:08 PM
Post #119 of 507
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I'll sell you mine for $50 I saw one last year for $125 so $50 is a steal.
I bought mine for the Ruckus last year then never ended up using it because Jake/bill/ed/alan etc. are a wealth of knowledge and a tons of stuff isn't even in the old book.
It is handy to have to lend out to the Canadians eh?
The schist is sharp so be prepared for screaming tips by the end of the weekend! Super positive though. And soft grading. Fun.
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jammer
Apr 11, 2008, 6:26 PM
Post #120 of 507
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epoch wrote: To get away from the above conversation. Myself, having never been to Rumney, I am looking now for the guidbook and am finding it really hard to come by. Granted, I never expected the shops here in Maine to have it. Portland and Augusta EMS don't carry it, Mainesport in Rockland doesn't have it. My sweep through Conway last week on my way back from Mt. Washington left me empty-handed too. I heard that there is a revision in the works and am curious as to when it will come out, or even if I can get one. I am sure that there will be enough of us around to show newbs to the area, such as myself, the climbs to do...
Epoch, check the second post of this thread. I tried to make a list, per area, for those who do not have a guide. Other then that, Jake has a memory of an Elephant of everything in the book ... pick his brain for gold nuggets!
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jakedatc
Apr 11, 2008, 10:33 PM
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Alan i've only led ~105 routes .. though i do have some beta for others ;)
sit start to Son of Sammy might have to go down though!
so yea.. let me know what you're looking for and i'll think of something
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losbill
Apr 11, 2008, 11:11 PM
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If I may be serious for just a bit....
All you newcomers to Rumney, don't worry about a guide book. Don't buy the old guide even if you can find it. There are many new climbs that are not in it. We all have them annotated in our tattered and worn old guides. I am sure the new guide will be outstanding and well worth waiting for. Ward Smith et al don't ever seem to do something that isn't top notch.
We are really a very friendly and supportive bunch with a wealth of experience at Rumney who climb at all levels. GO is a very strong climber and he maybe right about the sweet spot at Rumney grade-wise. However whether you be a 5.4 climber or a 5.11+ climber you will find more than enough climbs at your level and someone in our little group who would be willing to "show you the sights".
Off topic!!!! Epoch -- got the urge for Tucks. How is it looking? Are you getting over often? Might be fun to hook up for some "fun in the sun".
Bill
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c4c
Apr 11, 2008, 11:16 PM
Post #123 of 507
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thanks for nothin Bill! I had them on the line for $50.
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losbill
Apr 11, 2008, 11:41 PM
Post #124 of 507
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Todd---
Oops!! My bad!
Bill
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