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Alaskan Affair 2005!
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Partner coldclimb


Feb 28, 2005, 8:24 PM
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Alaskan Affair 2005!
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OK, I figured since all the other get-togethers have some cool alliteration, ours should too. Especially since this will be the third annual affair.

Alaskan Affair 2005

Who all wants to meet up and climb for a couple weeks this summer? Place would probably be Hatcher Pass. Time can be anything except the end of June, since I'll be in the Arrigetch then. ;) It's about time to start planning. All you locals need to show of course, and if anybody from out of state is going to be in the area, you should definitely think about meeting up and doing some climbing in one of the best areas in the state! ;)

Discuss!


climber_chick


Mar 1, 2005, 8:13 AM
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woooooooooo, it's going to be off the hook! .... let's just hope i can go now... :shock:


flypn


Mar 1, 2005, 8:21 AM
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I'll prob be in, have to see when the forest service will let me off the leash though.... look forward to it

-cheers


Partner coldclimb


Mar 2, 2005, 9:04 PM
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In reply to:
I'll prob be in, have to see when the forest service will let me off the leash though.... look forward to it

-cheers

Sounds cool. Should be great climbing any time from June through August. I'd have to say July would be best. ;)


Partner coldclimb


Mar 7, 2005, 5:45 AM
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Bump. Let's get some discussion going on dates! ;)


prezwoodz


Mar 7, 2005, 7:48 AM
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You know im in. We should do a smaller one before june to.


cgailey


Mar 7, 2005, 8:07 AM
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Do it in August and my new wife and I will be able to come out.... ;)


tarzan420


Mar 7, 2005, 8:37 AM
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hmm, I might actually be able to make it to one of these for once!

Assuming i'm here this summer (50/50 right now, i'd guess), I'd be up for anytime before august (Very early august, I could make an appearance, but not do a whole lot, I will be en route to a wedding w/ all of my earthly possessions...)

Will speak up more if I find out that I'm going to be up here this summer...


Partner coldclimb


Mar 8, 2005, 10:47 AM
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Do it in August and my new wife and I will be able to come out.... ;)

This would be sweet. August isn't too bad as far as weather goes either, typically. How's the end of June and beginning of July look for you? Generally more dry then, although on can never tell.

Oh, and wouldn't a camping/climbing trip be a perfect honeymoon? :wink: :lol: :twisted:


tarzan420


May 2, 2005, 11:25 PM
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Any plans on this?

I will be here and have a vehicle (when it chooses to start :evil: ) so as long as it's before I head out of here for good more or less (Aug1-3 or so) I ought to be able to make it.


Partner coldclimb


May 2, 2005, 11:33 PM
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Should be before then for sure, cause I'm probably heading to Squamish in August. I think I'll propose June 27th-July 9th. How's that for everyone?


tarzan420


May 2, 2005, 11:58 PM
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That'll work for me, granted I won't be able to be there the entire time, but can probably pull some 4x10's and finagle my schedule around to make it down for a 4-5 day weekend.


Partner coldclimb


May 3, 2005, 12:36 AM
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Yeah, that'd be sweet. This also covers the 4th of July weekend, when everybody and their dog will be hiking the Reed Lakes trail (I'm serious). I'll set up my massive base camp and bring a smaller tent as well to get some more remote climbs in. This summer is going to be awesome! :D


hangerlessbolt


May 3, 2005, 1:00 AM
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Nearest airport?!?


Been wanting to get to AK forever...


Partner coldclimb


May 3, 2005, 6:16 AM
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Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is about an hour and a half from the rocks. If you make it that far, I know there's locals who can meet you and go the rest of the way. They'll be both here and on alaskamountainforum. :D


Partner tim


May 3, 2005, 4:25 PM
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Hmmm. May be time to start shopping for a cheap flight.

Now all I have to do is convince Alan or someone else similarly experienced to take a week off from their job... I'd really like to climb and ski a route on Denali. (ok, I'm lying, I'd really like to go after the Cassin, but I suspect I'm not up to the challenge yet... regardless, 22-hour days and yawning crevasses sound like ''fun'')


hangerlessbolt


May 7, 2005, 4:39 AM
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In reply to:
Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport is about an hour and a half from the rocks. If you make it that far, I know there's locals who can meet you and go the rest of the way. They'll be both here and on alaskamountainforum. :D

Marking the date on my calendar. I'll hollar if I can swing it


Partner coldclimb


May 7, 2005, 5:23 AM
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Would be sweet guys. Hope you can make it, at least for part of the time!


skinnyjim


May 30, 2005, 8:27 PM
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Count me in John.. I'll definately be there. :D


tarzan420


Jun 1, 2005, 4:01 PM
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Any news/plans on this? I will be able to make it down for a few days at least, at this point i'm mostly working around my fiancee's schedule.


Partner coldclimb


Jun 1, 2005, 5:57 PM
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Well, there's not much to say. I'll be getting back from Thailand on the 24th, taking a weekend to rest, and hitching a ride to Hatchers the 27th. For the rest of you guys, I know most of you won't have the time to go the whole two weeks, so I'll just be there the whole time and if you want to drop by and climb for a while, you should definitely come join me. ;)


Partner coldclimb


Jun 9, 2005, 7:31 AM
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OK, so I'm off to Hatchers tomorrow, and then Thailand when I get back, and when I get back from Thailand I'll be heading into Hatchers for this whole gathering thingy. All you Alaskans had BETTER come! And if any of you non-alaskans are going to be around and need help finding the area or getting questions answered.... ummm.... maybe faust or cgailey will be around to help you. :) This isn't going to be as well organized as last year, cause I'm not going to be in the country, but it'll be good anyways. :D

Later all!


climber_chick


Jun 9, 2005, 8:14 PM
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man, i really hope i can go... though wait, i already forgot the dates in July. oh wait, June 27th through July 9th... hmmm, i will be here. i leave July 18th for Montana. hmm, i will see if i can make it. if for just a day even. ponder


Partner coldclimb


Jun 11, 2005, 7:51 PM
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man, i really hope i can go... though wait, i already forgot the dates in July. oh wait, June 27th through July 9th... hmmm, i will be here. i leave July 18th for Montana. hmm, i will see if i can make it. if for just a day even. ponder

You'd BETTER make it! You need to get out and climb! ;)

Whee, that was a fun (if very wet) trip to Hatchers. Now I get one night to pack for Thailand! :D And life is good...


tarzan420


Jun 17, 2005, 5:08 AM
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Well, I'll start an unofficial roll call:

Who's going to be there and when?
I'm going to drive down on the first, climb on the second and third, rest day/visit non-climbing friends around anchorage on the fourth, climb the morning of the fifth and head out.

Everyone else?


mourar


Jun 21, 2005, 9:54 PM
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yo, id love to do some climbing, im workink for a conservation corps. where and when? maybe i can get off.


mourar


Jun 21, 2005, 9:55 PM
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yo, id love to do some climbing, im workink for a conservation corps. where and when? maybe i can get off.


faust


Jun 22, 2005, 3:16 AM
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i'll be in alaska that week, and i'm planning on showing up at hatchers for a few days. i'll probably head up there from palmer early on the 30th of june and stay perhaps as long as the 2nd of july.

if the weather's crappy though, i'll probably wimp out.

john, let's try to yank those bolts this year!


Partner coldclimb


Jun 22, 2005, 6:02 AM
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In reply to:
i'll be in alaska that week, and i'm planning on showing up at hatchers for a few days. i'll probably head up there from palmer early on the 30th of june and stay perhaps as long as the 2nd of july.

if the weather's crappy though, i'll probably wimp out.

john, let's try to yank those bolts this year!

Word. I've been looking around some trying to find someone with bolt-pulling experience, but haven't been able to find anyone yet, and the ASCA never returned an e-mail I sent. Guess we'll just have to wing it. 8^)

Anyway, since nobody asked, the weather is nice here in Thailand and the climbing is excellent. ;) Pics will be posted sometime after I get back from this trip or Hatchers, or just whenever I get some empty time. 8^) 8^)

Life is good!


Partner coldclimb


Jun 24, 2005, 11:22 PM
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Hey all, I'm back in AK, and kinda sorta looking for someone with a truck to help me haul my massive base camp up. :wink: :oops: You'll get an equal share in the red vines and M&Ms... :angel:

Otherwise I have to go without the super comfortable yuppie amenities like the water cooler, the camp chair, and the tent that would shelter everything, including most of the truck. :lol:

I'll keep looking, just putting the word out. ;)


Partner coldclimb


Jun 26, 2005, 6:11 AM
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OK the super comfortable yuppie base camp is in. I think I may make several trips and ferry it back up Fairangel Creek off the left side of the end of the road to the big flat rock out in the pond there, since that place is cool. If you're up there looking for me, there's a trail on the left at the end of the road just before the gate that heads straight back there. I've got a massive grey tent with a green fly that should be visible from SOMEWHERE in the valley there, so I shouldn't be too hard to find. If I'm not at home there, I might possibly be over in Reed Valley or elsewhere with my smaller yellow REI HalfDome 2. I'm hoping to meet some more of you all on this trip! 8^)

Any questions, PM me or post here before Monday afternoon and I'll get them answered.


Partner coldclimb


Jul 8, 2005, 1:39 AM
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Geeze.

So the weather sucks really bad in Hatchers this month. So badly in fact that a guy died just over the ridge from my camp. I bailed and ran away this morning in the first sign of sunlight in several days. Since LAST MONDAY I climbed six routes, and five of them were ON Monday and Tuesday of last week. The rain really sucks, cause when it does stop, everything is wet, and then when it starts to dry, the rain comes again.

Worst time I've spent in Hatchers yet, but it won't be the last time I get rained out. Sorry to have missed meeting anyone else who managed to show up. Did anyone make it?



Anyway, here's my pics. I would start a TR thread, but it's not worth it. :lol:


Camp from above. Undoubtedly one of the best places ever to camp. And hey, look, it was sunny when I took this.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/01.jpg


Flips off the rock into the lake in the evening on the sunny day:
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/02.jpg


I aided this route and James (skinnyjim) followed free. Dunno what it was, but it was fun.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/03.jpg

http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/04.jpg


Shasta atop the first pitch of toto.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/05.jpg


Matt Faust jumps the creek.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/06.jpg


Tracy brushes her teeth with the reflections of Pinnacle
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/08.jpg


Here's the rescue chopper that hung out for two days. :(
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/09.jpg


Todd pulls a tough problem
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/15.jpg


Libby is too slow on the draw.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/10.jpg


Jeff pulls the same problem
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/11.jpg


Marmots don't look up apparently. I rappeled to about ten feet away from this guy.
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/12.jpg


Tell me again how people can die in this weather? Oh yeah.... unprepared...
http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/14.jpg


4togo


Jul 8, 2005, 2:47 AM
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I showed up with one other climber on Sunday. My first time up there, so we spent most of our time muttering things like "That would be a great route there... if it weren't dripping wet."

We had two dogs (one of which managed to fall into the creek... great) and couldn't find a place for them to ford the water, so we ended up having to content ourselves with boulders on the road-side of the water... which meant more muttering about wet. Wet, wet, wet.. but we made the drive from Anchorage, so we had to at least make a token effort, right? :)

Apparently the death happened about the same time we were up there. Talk about a tragedy. Also a real wake-up call about how we're sometimes just one wrong decision / moment of ill-preparedness away from death in this great land of ours.

As far as I can tell from the articles, they were really ill-prepared :(

Lisa


tarzan420


Jul 9, 2005, 2:12 AM
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We made it down as well, but bailed more quickly. We rolled in late Friday night (10pm), and after some dinner loaded up the packs and started finding a place to cross the creek, as I had reasoned that you folk were probably over in the bowl between the Pinnacle and Fairangel Wall (am I right?). Needless to say, We didn't find a way across, and ended up camping fairly close to the road. The next morning, we set off to the Monolith, me thinking I could probably lead even a wet 5.4. Turns out, after several false starts, that I was wrong. Luckily, two friends from Anchorage/Palmer happened to show up then and even found us, and they took care of climbing it for me. We decided enough was enough, w/ regards to the rain, and set off, in search of drier climbing. Got some fun, short pitches in on the Seward Highway that night, and even epic'ed on my first aid lead. Did lots of sightseeing and lots of driving, though. Hopefully I can make it back for some drier climbing sometime, though - looks beautiful.


Partner coldclimb


Jul 9, 2005, 2:21 AM
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In reply to:
We made it down as well, but bailed more quickly. We rolled in late Friday night (10pm), and after some dinner loaded up the packs and started finding a place to cross the creek, as I had reasoned that you folk were probably over in the bowl between the Pinnacle and Fairangel Wall (am I right?). Needless to say, We didn't find a way across, and ended up camping fairly close to the road. The next morning, we set off to the Monolith, me thinking I could probably lead even a wet 5.4. Turns out, after several false starts, that I was wrong. Luckily, two friends from Anchorage/Palmer happened to show up then and even found us, and they took care of climbing it for me. We decided enough was enough, w/ regards to the rain, and set off, in search of drier climbing. Got some fun, short pitches in on the Seward Highway that night, and even epic'ed on my first aid lead. Did lots of sightseeing and lots of driving, though. Hopefully I can make it back for some drier climbing sometime, though - looks beautiful.

Hey, sounds awesome man, glad you managed to get on some rock even if we didn't get to meet up. You had our location pegged, my tent was visible from the road at the gate. I didn't anticipate the river crossing sucking so bad, it was quite fun jumping across with a 75 pound pack on. Sucks that the weather was so bad, hopefully we can manage to meet up and climb sometime in the near future on some dry granite.

And yeah, learning that someone died so relatively close to my camp was a sobering experience. The weather was horrible, but I hadn't given it a second thought, with my tent and dry clothes so close. Terrible story for those guys. :(
News report is here for those interested. Requires registering.

I'm definitely still game to climb, so if you folks feel like getting out sometime and are in the area, definitely let me know. The rock has to dry off sometime! :wink:

 

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