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Re: [OneBadStud] Should someone learn hexes before cams?:
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graniteboy
Jul 26, 2015, 8:06 PM
Views: 13588
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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The OP asks the question as though learning to place cams and learning to place hexes is somehow a mutually exclusive proposition. I teach students the strengths and weaknesses and methods of placement on the same day. And Although we all mostly will place cams instead of hexes most of the time because they're usually a better protection option, hexes are in fact sometimes a better, safer protection form on alpine routes or anywhere the rock has loose blocks. Cams multiply the downward force of a fall into an outward force that is greater than the downward force applied to begin with, and can blow loose blocks out and get you killed. Passive devices (hexes) don't work that way, and as such are often a safer option in loose or blocky environments. And hexes weigh much, much less than an equal size cam, especially in the larger sizes, so supplementing your cam rack with a few hexes can save you some weight. Lastly, when you have to do a series of rappels on a remote route, which would you rather leave behind? a pair of ten dollar hexes, or a pair of 75 dollar cams? To pretend that only one of these tools should be used exclusively just shows people's lack of knowledge and experience in a wide variety of environments. I'm seeing a lot of lack of experience in these posts. Especially the ones who say "I've climbed X number of routes and never place hexes anymore, blah blah blah". They don't have any clue what they're talking about. There are plenty of dead people from cams blowing out a loose block and causing system failure. Back when cams first came out, there was an old kiwi guy called Dennis who used to hang out in the Valley. His was the first death I heard of due to cams causing an expando situation; he placed a couple cams under a boulder and lowered off, unleashing the boulder down on top of himself. fatal. The have been many, many other accidents and fatalities due to cams expanding things and either ripping out or causing rockfall that injured someone. So, kiddies, learn how to use all the tools at your disposal. But mostly, learn how to use the most important tool; judgement.
(This post was edited by graniteboy on Jul 26, 2015, 8:18 PM)
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Post edited by graniteboy
() on Jul 26, 2015, 8:18 PM
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