|
adatesman
Mar 10, 2008, 6:28 PM
Post #1 of 15
(5733 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Mar 10, 2008, 6:51 PM
Post #2 of 15
(5700 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
This should go in the lab instead of gear. Can you test other stuff like rope, webbing, 8 belay device, and biners ?
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 10, 2008, 8:05 PM
Post #3 of 15
(5650 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 11, 2008, 3:11 PM
Post #4 of 15
(5508 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Mar 15, 2008, 12:53 AM
Post #5 of 15
(5411 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
I've done informal testing on my alien hybrids, but I'll ship you mine for more formal testing. Thanks...!
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 15, 2008, 6:04 PM
Post #6 of 15
(5333 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
Mar 16, 2008, 10:20 PM
Post #7 of 15
(5268 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
For what its worth, I live near enough to Aric that I stopped over yesterday to get my 3 Aliens tested. They are: - red - stamped 1106, marking on head is 'L', which Dave from CCH said means he pull tested it - yellow - stamped 107, also marked with an 'L' - green - stamped 706, has an upside down 'v' or '^' stamped on the head Here is the red in the test rig: The red was pulled to 4 kN, and the yellow and green were pulled to a little over 3 kN. None blew apart the test rig in a fiery explosion of shrapnel, so I guess I can start climbing on them again. The tests did mark the lobes. The red showed the most wear and a slight flattening. The pictures below show the amount of marking. There is some flattening of the teeth on this lobe, right above the spring connection:
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 17, 2008, 12:41 AM
Post #8 of 15
(5236 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 20, 2008, 9:13 PM
Post #9 of 15
(5122 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
wormly81
Mar 20, 2008, 9:27 PM
Post #10 of 15
(5115 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2004
Posts: 280
|
A few questions: How hard are you pulling these cams? Is there any assurance that the pulling process wont do damage by itself?
|
|
|
|
|
joeforte
Mar 20, 2008, 10:57 PM
Post #11 of 15
(5078 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
|
Looks like your test jig has way too much texture. A flattened cam lobe creates an uneven cam angle. Try grinding it down to smooth it out some so you're not shearing teeth off the cams. Aliens do indeed have soft lobes, which is why they hold so well in marginal placements.
|
|
|
|
|
carbonrx8
Mar 21, 2008, 12:09 AM
Post #12 of 15
(5057 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2006
Posts: 267
|
Downloaded waiver and will be sending 3 cams from an unnamed company that has great design but poor qc this weekend. This offer is hella nice. Much appretiated.
(This post was edited by carbonrx8 on Mar 21, 2008, 12:09 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
Mar 21, 2008, 4:43 AM
Post #13 of 15
(5002 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
I guess I should have waited for other Aliens to go first ;) I wasn't terribly concerned about the flattening / marking, should I be? I was figuring it is similar to falling on them, which doesn't immediately mean they need to be retired. Am I underestimating the damage?
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Mar 25, 2008, 7:41 PM
Post #14 of 15
(4821 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
So, guess I should ask - you can test hybrids?
|
|
|
|
|
mustclimb69
Mar 26, 2008, 3:33 PM
Post #15 of 15
(4742 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 479
|
can you test some old biners untill they fail?? I have biners that have fallen great distances and others with significant rope wear. I would like to see what they fail at?
|
|
|
|
|
|