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Trojans1993
Oct 31, 2012, 4:59 AM
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Hello, I'm fairly new to climbing but having a heck of a time finding some shoes that are tight but not unbearable to wear. My first pair felt perfectly snug but stretched to too much after a couple uses so I got a different kind but the initial tight never would stretch and they were too tight to keep using.
What do you look for in a climbing shoe to determine if it is going to stretch a bit before using them. I just got some 5.10 Newtons that feel pretty darn snug but will feel great if they stretch a bit but I don't want to use them if they are not going to stretch. Thanks.
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acorneau
Oct 31, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Trojans1993 wrote: Hello, I'm fairly new to climbing but having a heck of a time finding some shoes that are tight but not unbearable to wear. My first pair felt perfectly snug but stretched to too much after a couple uses so I got a different kind but the initial tight never would stretch and they were too tight to keep using. What do you look for in a climbing shoe to determine if it is going to stretch a bit before using them. I just got some 5.10 Newtons that feel pretty darn snug but will feel great if they stretch a bit but I don't want to use them if they are not going to stretch. Thanks.
Shoes will always stretch to some degree. It may be just the slightest "break in" or they might stretch 2 sizes up (Mythos, anyone?).
Remember that lace-up shoes allow for post-stretch fine tuning of the fit more than a Velcro shoe.
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rocknice2
Oct 31, 2012, 1:04 PM
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How much they will stretch depends on the lining.
Unlined shoes stretch the most.
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kennoyce
Oct 31, 2012, 2:37 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: How much they will stretch depends on the lining. Unlined shoes stretch the most.
It also depends on what the shoe is made out of. A leather shoe will stretch a whole lot more than a synthetic shoe.
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pedro_sandchez
Nov 5, 2012, 3:34 PM
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I've owned probably 8 pairs of 5.10s. My experience is that their synthetic cawdura shoes stretch about a half size. When fitting shoes made of Cawdura, I always find the size that fits as close to how I want the shoe to feel comfort wise, and then buy the half size smaller. Works well for me. After 3-4 climbing days they stretch and have an awesome molded to my feet like fit.
Leather shoes are a little less consistent. When buying leather shoes, I usually buy the absolute smallest shoe I can get my foot in and still stand up without an absurd level of pain.
That said, the Newtons are made of "Perfalon" which 5.10 specifically states is stretch resistant. I have never owned a pair of Perfalon shoes, but since 5.10 calls them stretch resistant, I would speculate that they will stretch less than Cawdura. That being the case, I wouldn't bank on them stretching. If they are just slightly uncomfortable and maybe have one hot spot, then sure, they'll probably soften up a bit. But if you can't finish a route in them today, you probably won't be able to to in a month either.
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Trojans1993
Nov 5, 2012, 8:58 PM
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Thanks everyone for the comments. I didn't want to risk a weekend of cramped feet so I ran over to the Evolv factory store about 10 minutes away and they set me up with some great shoes and a great deal.
The 5.10's felt like a great shoe too but just a half size too small.
Great weekend of climbing all over Indian Cove this past weekend and managed to clean my toughest route yet - I may be hooked on this climbing stuff now  Just ordered my first rope and Grigri 2 so I can start building my own gear collection.
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