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goatsoup
Feb 4, 2002, 2:03 AM
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I briefly was introduced to this new protection device, however i forgot the actual name. Its brand spankin' new and it seems very happy. I just wondering if anyone know what i was talking about. Description = Cylindrical, 2 pieces slide in hole, and err its like a cam and a wedge combined i think heh
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rockjock04
Feb 4, 2002, 2:21 AM
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Big bro? One part slides out of the other with a spring and it is used in cracks as widw as like 1 and a half feet. I think this is what your talking about. Back me up someone.
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paintinhaler
Feb 4, 2002, 3:15 AM
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I have seen them used but I didn't think they were new. I have saw some old pictures with people useing them.
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brinton
Feb 4, 2002, 6:23 PM
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It's a big bro alright, I've used one on lead once, and it took forever to place. The flare has to be just right. I'd prefer placing a cam anyday. Plus the big bros are expensive as heck.
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goatsoup
Feb 4, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Does it involve drilling some sort of hole? I just curious as to how they are used.
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gunked
Feb 4, 2002, 10:17 PM
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Everything you're desctibing thus far sounds loke a big-bro. I have a #3 and have used it on lead twice. Big-bro's do, however, have four holes drilled at angles into the colored (the outside) tube. If your's doesn't, then maybe it's not a big-bro. I'll do my best to describe an actual unit:
There are two cylindrical aluminum tubes. One fitting and able to slide along inside the other. The smaller of the two also has a, sort of, screw nut on it that's designed to lock it into it's open position once the unit is actually placed. The tubes, themselves, are also cut, on their oppposing edges, on an angle. This is so when it is fit into a parallel crack, on one side (the larger and colored tube side) the unit is higher, or further back than the direction of pull, than the other. That side is to be slung with spectra cord through the four drilled holes. This unit,as I remember, was designed by Craig Leubben, wide crack enthusiast, to protect BIG cracks. It works very well, in the direction of pull, in wide, parallel-sided cracks. In irregular cracks, it's questionable at best, but ? better than nothing?!? Anyway, that's all I got.
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indiesummit
Feb 4, 2002, 10:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 3, 2001
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If it is a Big Bro...
Evidently they work pretty well when you can find nipples on the rock (or elsewhere if you're lucky) and place one opening over it. Never placed one -- but they look pretty bomber. Better than lugging 2 x 4s up a route...
They're actually a decade or so old, I believe, originally a Lowe (?) product, and now manufactured by Trango...
Hope this helps...
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theamish
Feb 4, 2002, 10:51 PM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2002
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It's also possible from the "camming wedge" you described that you're talking about the Trango BallNutz. They come in different sizes and use a moving cylindrical plate against a type of wedge
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faphantom
Feb 4, 2002, 11:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Cmon boys; Big Bro's don't go in HOLES!
Our two-hoofed companion is referring to "Removable Bolts"...and they are new, bnut not brand spankin new, as they have been on the market for a couple years now.
Cylindrical- Removable Bolt
Camming device-Removable Bolt
In a Hole-Removable Bolt
And as far as Big Bro's go- they are bomber when placed in the right rock and the right placement. They can be ahassle when you don't know how to place them and/or are attempting to place them where they do not belong...such as IN HOLES!
F.A. Phantom
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gunked
Feb 5, 2002, 8:58 AM
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Oh yeah. Oops! ! I never was that good riddles!
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suicidal_soldier
Feb 5, 2002, 2:16 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
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it's definitely a BIG BRO!!!
seen that in a climbing book!
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smithclimber
Feb 15, 2002, 10:18 AM
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Registered: Feb 15, 2002
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Removable Bolts are what your talking about.
And umm...yes Big Bros DO go in holes. If the holes are big enough! Never heard of placing a Big Bro into a hueco for protection? After all, he never specified it as a DRILLED 1/4", or 3/8" hole.
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codey
Feb 17, 2002, 9:20 PM
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Registered: Jan 20, 2002
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They arent new?!
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apollodorus
Feb 19, 2002, 12:25 AM
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RIVETS! It sounds like rivets. He said drilled hole . . . must be rivets. Or dowels.
Seriously, though, it sounds to me like you're looking at some sort of expansion bolt. There are several methods of expanding them, normally with some sort of wedge action. Some have a conical wedge that fits into a hole; you put the wedge end into the hole and pound it in. Some have a screw that pulls two parts against each other, forcing them apart and expanding the anchor. There are about a zillion rock and concrete anchors out there, but only a few that are commonly used for climbing.
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