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xclimber47
Feb 20, 2005, 12:59 AM
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Hey, I had a question about anchor equializers. I had never really seen them before, but then I found one on the REI website, I was wondering if they could be used for toproping to speed up the process of setting up the toprope or whether they were just for setting up hanging belays or whatnot for multipitch climbs? If you have no clue what an anchor equalizer is heres a link: http://www.rei.com/...EI_SSHP_CLIMBING_TOC
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iridesantacruz
Feb 20, 2005, 1:03 AM
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could you give a link to it?
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climbinginchico
Feb 20, 2005, 2:21 AM
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Basically, what you have there is a fast simple way of equalizing an anchor. I would not use it personally because it is not redundant (if one arm tears, it can all go, unless cloved at each anchor point) and it will extend if a piece blows. A cordolette with an 8 is just as effective, and if done well, takes about as long.
Just my opinion.
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sharpendguy
Feb 20, 2005, 2:41 AM
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Have been using the Trango Equalizer for 3 years. They are awesome, use them for all types of climbing. For top roping they are great because no matter what direction you move the rope the anchor stays perfectly equalized,which will not occur with a cordelette. They are also redundant.
They could be longer but other than that they perform flawlessly.
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anykineclimb
Feb 20, 2005, 4:06 AM
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I've played around with them a little but still prefer a cordalette for my anchors.
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jimdavis
Feb 20, 2005, 4:55 AM
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In reply to: Have been using the Trango Equalizer for 3 years. They are awesome, use them for all types of climbing. For top roping they are great because no matter what direction you move the rope the anchor stays perfectly equalized,which will not occur with a cordelette. They are also redundant. They could be longer but other than that they perform flawlessly.
Perfect equalization never happens. Also, how is one strand redundant? You have to knot the upper strands of it for it to be redundant.
I could see it being usefull for programs, but $30 for a cordelette with only 1 purpose? I'll pass.
Cheers,
Jim
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skinner
Mar 3, 2005, 8:16 AM
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In reply to: I would not use it personally because it is not redundant (if one arm tears, it can all go, unless cloved at each anchor point) and it will extend if a piece blows.
What about the method of using 2 independent loops instead of tying any knots, that way you don't compromise the equalization properties of the anchor?
http://www.netspy.net/.../gear/fx/3-point.jpg
A couple loops of cordalette would work just fine, but I think 2 long pre-sewn DyneemaŽ webbing slings would keep the bulk down.
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mingleefu
Mar 3, 2005, 8:37 AM
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In the image above, if the left-most piece of pro blows, the left biner will fall. Same for the right side. Then you are left with a two-piece anchor being shockloaded onto a single biner. The other biner will fall down the rope to the climber or belayer. If the middle piece blows, then you shockload onto two biners- better, but still bad..
As well, It seems to me that any considerable load on the two lower biners would be sufficient to hold them tight enough together that the webbing would not be able to slide between them. To equalize, the left and right sides of that middle arm would need to move in opposite directions, which I could see being a problem under any substantial load, considering friction. It think it would equalize, but no more than a cordelatte can. You are better off tying a fig-8 a-la-cordelette.
It seems to me that the best case scenario would be knowing which direction the pull would be towards, and using a cordelette to equalize as best you can. If you dont' know what direction the pull will be, you probably shouldn't be the one making the anchor. It is not that hard to tie a cordelette reasonably equalized. Tie a clean knot, and take the time to do it right. Redo it if you have to.
.. merely as I see it..
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skinner
Mar 3, 2005, 9:09 AM
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You are absolutely right, if the right or left anchors fail you are on 1 biner, which I really don't think is that big of a deal because it will equalize on the remaining 2 anchors and people take huge whippers on single biners all the time when on lead.
I don't know about cordalette, but I have climbed with someone who always sets anchors in this fashion using slings, and they do equalize rather easily. I stood right beside the anchor as he attempted to pendulum around a corner watching it equalize back and forth on each swing.
Don't get me wrong, I am not proposing this as the ultimate solution, was just throwing it in as an alternate method
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paulraphael
Mar 3, 2005, 3:41 PM
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as in any anchor situation, you need to be able to judge if it's more important to have an anchor that can dynamically equalize, or one that can eliminate the chance of extension. you can't have both (but you can have a compromise: limited adjustment and limited extension, by tying knots). if your pieces are bomber (big trees, shiney half-inch bolts) but the route wanders, then go for a sliding anchor. if your pieces are more suspect but the route is straight up and down, then tie it off solid. if your situation is a mix (some of the worse of both worlds) then use your best judgement. consider more pieces of pro and more redundancy overall to make the best of a less than ideal situation. Just make sure you're aware of which pieces will be shockloaded if something fails--easier to do if you work to keep things simple.
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adnix
Mar 3, 2005, 5:23 PM
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In reply to: I was wondering if they could be used for toproping to speed up the process of setting up the toprope or whether they were just for setting up hanging belays or whatnot for multipitch climbs?
I don't think equalizing has that much importance if the anchors are solid. And if there's a chance of ripping, this thing doesn't have much use. But the biggest problem is that the whole piece will fail if one of the strands gets cut due to sharp edged. The thing is more of a toy than a tool.
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