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fo_d
Mar 26, 2002, 9:42 PM
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Wooohooo! I just got back from a knife show, where I sold almost all of my knives and after exspenses and buying more materials, I have $1500 to spend on a rack. That seemed like a lot at 1st but as some of you know that doesnt go far. so I bought 2 sets of Rock Empire micro and regular cams, the smallest csam in the set goes down to .47 inces the largest goes up to 3.5 inches, so I have a little left over after buying some other stuff and I'm tring to deside on getting the 3 smallest zero friends or the 2 largest tech friends, or 2 #5 tech friends. they all got really good reviews in climbing mag but I dont know if I'm more likely to need small cams or big cams. ant suggestions?
Thanks
Les
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miagi
Mar 26, 2002, 10:25 PM
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Well, it is up to you lol. I really dont know what the rock that your climbing looks like or what you will climb. I'd have to say even out your rack. You have some micro cams from rockempire already(im not sure what size they are but none the less, they are small) Perhaps, keeping this in mind, you should add larger pro to your rack to even things out unless you already have some fairly decent sized cams.
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jt512
Mar 26, 2002, 10:32 PM
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Eventually, you'll need both. I think if I were you, I'd get one #4 Camalot, and the two smallest Aliens.
You might find this cam comparison chart helpful:
http://www.climbingboulder.com/resources/comp_1280.gif
-Jay
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rockinrobby
Mar 26, 2002, 10:34 PM
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You didn't say if you had a set of nuts.
You should always have a set. Even if you only use them to set your belay station on
multiple pitches. There will come a time when
a cam just won't work. I have 2 sets of BD
down to a #5. I don't them any smaller.
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joemor
Mar 26, 2002, 10:59 PM
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u need pasive gear, there comes a time when cams just arnt as bommer as passive, go the passive!!!!
joe
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radistrad
Mar 26, 2002, 11:23 PM
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for the small sizes buy Ailens, you wont be dissapointed.
Buy 2 blu, 2 green, 2 yellow. If you have any $$ left over get some off-set ailens, they are awesome.
Let me add why I choose the Ailens over the competition, the Ailens have a narrower head widht! With a narrower width you can place the cams in shallower cracks. Compare them side by side at the store, it will be vert apparent to you
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-03-26 15:32 ]
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fo_d
Mar 27, 2002, 12:39 AM
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I got a set......errr nuts that is, I got plenty. I know you all can't tell me "for sure" what to buy, I don't know what I'll need for local rock because I'll be all over the place climbing on at least 3 different types of rock. but what I'm looking for is, experianced climber to say if they had to make the choice that I mentioned above, without knowing what you would need for the area you will be climbing in, what would you take? do you find you could live without tiny cams, or is it the 5"-7" monsters you dont need? I already have 2 sets of cams covering from .47" to 3.5", I think that with nuts and some hexes should cover alot of ground, but i'm looking at ennie, mennie, minie mo for the rest and thought I'd see what you all think.
Les
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fo_d
Mar 27, 2002, 12:52 AM
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ok, what I just posted still doesnt make any sense, so heres what I got tell me what to add with the $200 left.
I got:
2 sets (16 cams) .47-3.5"
2 sets of smilies stoppers with extra 11-13
1 set alum. HB off-sets
3 8-10 WC slung nuts
the 3 largest BD hexes (red, dark grey & yellow I think)
1 set of brassies
there, what am I lacking that I can fill with $200?
Les
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milesdesbrie
Mar 27, 2002, 12:54 AM
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I'd say go for the Aliens. They'll fit where nothing else will and, if you ever decide to do any aid climbing, are indispensable.
Looking at my rack, the smallish to medium cams are the ones with the most wear from usage.
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radistrad
Mar 27, 2002, 1:13 AM
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I dont think you will really need a cam over 4", I rarely use my #5 camalot or my #6 WC.
Ailens are the BEST for the small cams, they work great for aid and they are awesome for free climbing.
Buy Ailens.
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jt512
Mar 27, 2002, 1:27 AM
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fo_d, you planning on doing a lot of solo aid or something?
You don't need all that passive pro. I'm losing count of how many sets of nuts you bought. Two sets should be plenty. Slung nuts? They still make those? As to hexes, I know they have their afficianados, but mine haven't seen the light of day since I bought a second set of cams.
Can you return any of that stuff or sell it?
-Jay
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fo_d
Mar 27, 2002, 1:44 AM
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Hehe, jt512. no, no aid for me, I had some of the passive pro for setting top ropes. I also find myself setting several TR's at the same time so my whole family and anyone else we bring will have a variety of routes to choose from, and while all thats going on I'd like to still have gear left to lead other routes.
Les
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miagi
Mar 27, 2002, 3:19 AM
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ah your a family man eh? Hehe, its nice to get the whole group out and do something fun!
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