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rck_climber
Sep 5, 2001, 9:40 PM
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I've seen alot of talk lately about ropes and caring for them. For all this talk about caring for our ropes, there must be alot of love between us climbers and our ropes.
Therefore, I wanted to see what kind, length, width and features you all prefer in your ropes.
Personally, I'm a Sterling man to the end. My first rope was a PMI 10.5x50 (the sport climber's standard issue), but learned to hate it, it quickly became so stiff I could barely get it bent into an ATC, not to mention the sheath wore very quickly.
Now I thread my draws with a Sterling 10.2x60 and LOVE it (oh yeah, lots of care goes into it). It's considerably lighter than a 10.5 of the same length, yet takes just as many falls. None of that dry junk for me either, I'm careful to never climb in the rain (as much as possible in Colorado where the weather can change in 5 mins in the mountains), and never ice climb with it - so it's just a waste to me. The only feature that I wish I had, and don't, is the "bi-color" or "half-n-half" feature where the pattern or color changes at the mid-point so you can always find the half.
What about you guys? What ropes do you prefer?
Mick
[ This Message was edited by: rck_climber on 2001-09-05 14:41 ]
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screamer
Sep 14, 2001, 3:27 PM
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Sterling all the way, i'm on my third one, and love it. I've had a 10.5, the 10.2 and now i have the marathon 9.6?. they all handle really well and falls are super soft.
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jsm280
Sep 14, 2001, 5:53 PM
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Mamut flash 10.5 60m is my main rope.
I also climb on the sterlin and both handle great.
I have yet to run through either rope so I can't compare lifespan.
The PMI is not bad until you use better
I like the way mamut and sterlins handle and absorb
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krillen
Sep 14, 2001, 6:08 PM
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Edliveiss 11mm, double dry. durability and security.
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andy_lemon
Sep 14, 2001, 6:12 PM
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Of course there is alot of love for my rope, it is my lifeline between me and the ground... I have in my collection of ropes only two but they are both Beal 10.5 60m.
I've seen people have trouble with Bluewater ropes after a rappel. It seems as though they want to coil up. My Beal ropes do not do this.
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rck_climber
Sep 14, 2001, 8:28 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by Kr6er:
Will the Sterling rope give you any problems after a Rappel? I want to climb and rappel with one rope?
Ah, yes, another question for the ages....
Unfortunately, due to the very design of dynamic ropes, they are not very receptive to rappelling.
Dynamic ropes have a certain degree (varies with each rope) of stretch to minimize the impact of a fall. If there was no stretch in the rope, you can imagine that a 10-footer could easily snap your back in two. Furthermore, the stretch reduces the stress put on to placements or bolts (don't want to get into the bolt wars again ), this keeps them from being jerked right out of the wall on a good factor two fall.
This ability to stretch, while great for lead climbing, actually becomes a hinderance of sorts when top-roping or rappelling. As you rappel, you put alot of constant pressure on the rope and it causes the spindles inside to stretch as if they were taking the weight of a fall. Over time, this causes them to stretch out like an old rubber band and begins to lose some of its elasticity. The use of a belay device also twists the fibers inside the rope as they pass through the device so that, again, over time they will begin to "kinked" up, and exibit small loops in the rope where the fibers have begun to fatigue and twist. Lastly, a fast rappel generates alot of heat (just lean over after one and let the bare skin on your stomach touch the biner - OUCH!, believe me, I've learned this one the hard way more than once ). This heat also does a number on the delicate fibers inside the rope.
Don't get me wrong, you can certainly rappel on a dynamic rope, but need to be aware of its long-term affects on the rope abd take it easy when you do. I definitely don't recommend fast-raps on dynamic ropes.
The best rope to use in these type of situations is a static line rope that does not stretch and thereby takes that long-term fatigue due to rappeling and top-roping out of the equation.
Hope this helps,
Mick
[ This Message was edited by: rck_climber on 2001-09-14 13:29 ]
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rck_climber
Sep 14, 2001, 10:05 PM
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Thanks for the kind words, glad it helped. Having said all that, it occured to me that I never really answered your post. You can rap on a Sterling and I find it to handle the extra stress quite well.
You can find my complete answer at the top on which rope I, personally, prefer. I am very partial to the Sterlings as well. I'm about ready to get my next Sterling and think I'm going to go for a 9.7mm or so to further reduce weight. I've loved my rope and it has performed great for me, but alas, it's about to have to be set out to pasture. Noticed some bigger frays last weekend and it's begun to kink up a bit (because I don't take my own advice) - so time for another, but you can rest assured it will certainly be a Sterling.
Even after a season and a half of utter abuse, she's still soft and supple as the day I got her. There will be a small, basement service when I lay her to rest with the rest of the worn-out gear - at least she'll have lots of friends there.
Mick
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talons05
Sep 16, 2001, 4:29 AM
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Maxim makes a very nice bi-pattern dry rope, 60 meters. Very good handling and durability, 9.8.
I also like the Metolius super safe. Talk about durable. And it handles decently too.
AW
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rck_climber
Sep 16, 2001, 2:43 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by kr6er:
Soft and Supple you said Mick, sounds like my wife, but unlike your rope she'll last for more than a season or two.
Hopefully she's not been dragged across every rock face in the area, been dropped in the dirt, stepped on by newbies and suffered the all around abuse I mentioned either .
Mick
BTW, where's the deal through, I'm due for another anyway and dying for a bi-color this time.
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ericontherocks
Sep 17, 2001, 8:54 AM
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I use sterling
for trad climbs 9.5mm dry bi-color 60meter
all other climbing 10.3mm marathon 60m
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rrrADAM
Sep 17, 2001, 1:24 PM
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Bluewater 10.5 X 60.
I get a year out of each, I climb A LOT.
I keep 2 ropes, so I replace 1 every 6 months. I always end up replacing 'cause the sheath starts to fuzz up thru use.
Can't beat the price: $119.00 if you shop around. I have 2 new ropes waiting to be marked at midpoint and used when my current ropes wear out.
My 1rst rope was a Mammut 10.5 X 55 Dry, was a waste of $$$, since I only got a year out of it.
rrrADAM
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broganadams
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Sep 17, 2001, 7:23 PM
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I like this Cassin 9.7mm that tradgirl bought for 100 USD's. It has a 7 fall rating and it is 60 meters long. It is holding up very well and staying suprisingly clean.
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