|
salamanizer
Jan 24, 2006, 7:39 AM
Post #26 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
Not replacing dangerous bolts because the FA party doesn't want them to be IMO is selfish, especially if those individuals don't climb that route anymore which in most instances is the case. Why should I die because some old a$$hole wants his old crappy bolts to remain. I do love to see old mank on the walls while I'm climbing though. Thats why whenever I replace bolts on a route that is old mank, I always leave one heritage bolt behind. Yeah, its adding a bolt next to an old one, but it helps to show the age and history of the route. I think all old routes should be left with one heritage bolt to rust away with time.
|
|
|
|
|
cintune
Jan 24, 2006, 1:03 PM
Post #27 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293
|
Another "heritage-ey" thing to do would be replace them with full-strength exact replicas. That'd keep everyone guessing. Is it mank or is it just anodized that way?
|
|
|
|
|
mendou
Jan 24, 2006, 1:52 PM
Post #28 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2004
Posts: 228
|
In reply to: Put "heritage" pieces where they belong: in a museum.
ditto... in my opinion if you have a manky bolt in the route there are just for nothing... mostly of them are safe even if looks some rust, but if you are very sure that is a manky bolt..replace it...
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Jan 24, 2006, 3:02 PM
Post #29 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
Put the rusty relics on display in a museum where they belong.
The argument of "Heritage" would hold much more water if it was a question of pins being replaced with bolts.
Aid route rebolting to me is a whole different story and far more complex.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Jan 24, 2006, 3:33 PM
Post #30 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
Seems to me that if you wanted to keep the route "behind glass" - something untouched now, the argument that these are the heritage would make sense. There is something about seeing the old hardware...
But, the point already made about the hardware as it exists now is not what it was at the time of ascent seems to me to hold more sway. We want the route to be "functioning." Climbable in the same style as the first ascent (more or less). Those ascensionists did not have to worry whether the bolt had rusted through or not...they were new!
As to bridges - in New England, they still preserve many covered bridges, but only drive on a few.
|
|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Jan 25, 2006, 5:19 AM
Post #31 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
In reply to: Thats why whenever I replace bolts on a route that is old mank, I always leave one heritage bolt behind. Yeah, its adding a bolt next to an old one, but it helps to show the age and history of the route. I think all old routes should be left with one heritage bolt to rust away with time.
I kind of like this idea. If nothing else, people would see what gear they would have been climbing on if someone hadn't taken the trouble to replace it.
|
|
|
|
|
colkurtz
Jan 25, 2006, 6:32 AM
Post #32 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 115
|
if he doesnt climb the route regularly then he should have no say. if he does get pleasure from climbing his old bolts then fine. i think its a good idea to leave something behind on a significant climb.
most likely hes just bitter he left behind his glory days. he should be put down
|
|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Jan 25, 2006, 7:05 AM
Post #33 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
In reply to: if he doesnt climb the route regularly then he should have no say. if he does get pleasure from climbing his old bolts then fine. i think its a good idea to leave something behind on a significant climb. most likely hes just bitter he left behind his glory days. he should be put down
We could kneecap the old boy sbaclimber mentioned in the first post with a chainsaw and he could still climb rings around us both. He climbs 5.11+ sport and boulders v8. It must be noted though, he is not the FA of the route in question.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jan 25, 2006, 10:08 AM
Post #34 of 34
(5197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
In reply to: It must be noted though, he is not the FA of the route in question.
Remember, I am not *planning* on doing anything (geez, read the entire thread :roll: )
Actually, there were 2 routes in question, and yes, the person in question was actually considering using the original bolts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
