False. I am relying on 2 separate strands. If either was to be cut (not expected to happen, but nonetheless), the attached biner or biners would still be connected to the anchor. In that setup, the 2 strands of material go to the limiter knots, and don't form a loop with each other. This is in contrast to one "loop" of a PAS, which would cease to be connected to anything if it were cut.


This is not rocket surgery.

I have been climbing for 18 years with over 1000 multipitch climbs, up to 5.12 trad, and I have never had a FF2, neither has any of my partners.

FF2 falls are rare. When leading, you get out of the high FF region fairly quickly as you place pro. But, we're building anchors to protect us in case things go wrong - not because we just want to fondle the gear (well, most of us).

Im wrong. I apolise. I guess I'm not going to be a rocket surgeon.

Still my point still stands. There are many parts of a climbing system that isn't redundant. That said I have often taken to bringing up two seconds with the Reverso when I lead. I normally claim I bring two seconds for redundancy.

My GOD there are a lot of wankers out there.....they read one thing on some forum and believe that the PAS is going to fail on a FF2! Why are you taking FF2 falls. I have been climbing for 18 years with over 1000 multipitch climbs, up to 5.12 trad, and I have never had a FF2, neither has any of my partners.
These are full strength slings, just like all the other ones you tie your limiter knots in and QUADS, and all that other shit
The op asked if it would work on bolt anchors, and yes it would work great. It might not be fully equalized, but it would be plenty good enough. So many of you anchor nuts want to build the perfect anchor, but there is NOT one that meets everything you need.
clip a loop to each bolt, clip the loop that hangs the lowest in between for the power point and you are done. at least there is no extension if one bolt magically fails!

+1

Hard to tell who the bigger idiot is here: the guy who says don't worry about factor-2 falls, or the guy who "+1"s him.

Jay

I.E., someone like John Long coming up with the equalette as an alternative to the standard cordellete setup. KISS - Keep it simple stupid.

So, 2 bolts? Double length sling, 2 limiter knots (overhand), clip master point in sliding X configuration, and clip the ends to the bolts. Solid placements (bolts), redundant, equalized, no extension (at least, limited extension.) Boom. Done, very simple. Don't fix what isn't broken. (Yes, there are other ways to do this, this is just a simple, standard one.)

My GOD there are a lot of wankers out there.....they read one thing on some forum and believe that the PAS is going to fail on a FF2! Why are you taking FF2 falls.

this is not standard for two bolts- in fact, despite Long schlepping this system for a couple of years now, i have yet to see (or use) it in trad climbing, let alone at a bolted anchor.

To bring this back on track...

OP, at what point do you un-girth hitch your PAS to construct the anchor? Or do you intend to belay from above the masterpoint with your crotch 4 inches from the wall?

As for your diagrams, I'm not sure where you got them, but the second one in the second attachment is showing a nearly perfect ADT- this is frowned on by most compitent climbers.

An ADT has two issues: load amplification and lack of redundancy. The sling is clove hitched to both carabiners. I don't see either issue in that anchor.

This is correct. There is no American triangle in either anchor.

Jay

I was wondering if any of you use it not to secure yourself TO an anchor, but to build an anchor on multi pitch routes.

The PAS is 42" long, so if you use the 4 last links for the anchor (2 per side) that leaves you the long girth-hitch strand and the first link for your connection to the first bolt. That should be about 18-20" of length (my guess).