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neverwalk
Jun 10, 2010, 10:56 PM
Post #51 of 59
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Registered: Apr 10, 2010
Posts: 18
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Yeah, stupid expensive. Just ridiculous. Only way I can justify stuff like that is that I can write it off as a business expense. That plus pro-deals makes it possible. At full retail, I'm not sure I could justify it. Yes, it works really well, but....that's a lot of $$$
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hafilax
Jun 10, 2010, 10:59 PM
Post #52 of 59
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
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j_ung wrote: neverwalk wrote: For Guiding, LOVE the Petzl Gri-Gri and Freino combo. A great combo for almost any conceivable scenario. Built in friction option for lowering a "big" load, with just a simple clip, rather than grabbing an additional biner and adding it into the system. Gotta agree with you there, although the Freino's price tag is... daunting.
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splashclimber
Jun 13, 2010, 9:42 PM
Post #53 of 59
(1985 views)
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Registered: Jun 10, 2009
Posts: 14
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GriGri - with Petzl AmD
All other devices - Petzl 3d Attache (the newer lightweight one)
Currently trying the Petzl Attache (older one) when I autoblock (as the biner that goes around the belay rope). Have not tried it yet, but is smoother/more-rounded-looking than the new version of the Attache.
I need all the help I can get (even a few grams on a lightweight belay device) for trad climbs; but might as well use the same biner for crag/short approach climbs. I like to have one biner dedicated to each device for easy packing/planning. ( I am lazy too ) 
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vegastradguy
Jun 14, 2010, 4:18 PM
Post #54 of 59
(1950 views)
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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splashclimber wrote: GriGri - with Petzl AmD All other devices - Petzl 3d Attache (the newer lightweight one)
be mindful of using an I-beam style carabiner as your belay biner. i tested bd's vaporlock for three months before i shelved it due to wear. unlike round stock carabiners, those i-beam biners dont have the mass to lose.
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Alphaboth
Jun 18, 2010, 7:22 AM
Post #55 of 59
(1912 views)
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Registered: Apr 2, 2008
Posts: 116
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yeah i like the attache
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mihir
Jun 28, 2010, 11:25 AM
Post #56 of 59
(1861 views)
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Registered: Feb 24, 2010
Posts: 19
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Fixe Lotus
with Petzl reverso 3
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pacman529
Jun 28, 2010, 4:42 PM
Post #57 of 59
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Registered: Jun 17, 2010
Posts: 46
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jt512 wrote: psprings wrote: If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that. Larger belay biners reduce the amount of rope the belayer can pay out in an armful, making short-roping more likely. Jay
forgive my ignorance, but can you please explain this further? like what is short-roping?
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shu2kill
Jun 28, 2010, 5:23 PM
Post #58 of 59
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Registered: Apr 9, 2008
Posts: 352
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pacman529 wrote: forgive my ignorance, but can you please explain this further? like what is short-roping?
short roping is when you are leading and ask for rope, and you are not given the correct amount, the belayer feeds but not enough so you cannot clip quickly, or you cannot clip at all until the belayer feeds more rope...
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jt512
Jun 28, 2010, 5:27 PM
Post #59 of 59
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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pacman529 wrote: jt512 wrote: psprings wrote: If you want a smaller HMS, there are certainly options, but my opinion (and it's only my opinion) is that a big HMS with lots of room makes for very nice belaying a rappelling. I think the Jake does a great job at that. Larger belay biners reduce the amount of rope the belayer can pay out in an armful, making short-roping more likely. Jay forgive my ignorance, but can you please explain this further? like what is short-roping?
Short-roping is when the leader pulls up slack to make a clip, and the belayer doesn't get the rope out fast enough, so the leader has to wait for the belayer to catch up. Ideally, this should never happen; the climber should never feel tension from the rope while climbing or clipping.
The leader can pull up a lot more slack in an armful than the belayer can pay out. The leader can reach way down to grab the rope, and then pull out a yard or more of slack to make a clip over his head; but the belayer can only pay out as much slack per arm motion as the distance between his belay device and his hand when his elbow is fully extended. So, for each armful of slack the leader pulls out, the belayer usually has to pay out two or three smaller armfuls. The larger the belay carabiner, the less rope the belayer can get out per armful. I've found that using a smaller belay biner, like the Petzl Attaché, reduces the belayer's workload a bit, and helps prevent short-roping.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 28, 2010, 5:29 PM)
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