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backtrack
Feb 13, 2002, 10:59 PM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Feb 6, 2002
Posts: 20
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hi all... you all seem so friendly and willing to help, so i guess i'll just stick my question out there:
i've only really started climbing a month ago but have gotten a tad obsessive (4-5x/wk.) about it and have improved a lot... am a solid 5.8 now and a tentative 5.9... working on all the 5.9/10 routes i can get my little hands on, but the point is, i think it's time to buy some of my own equipment: i'm a gym rat, yes, but only because that's where i've started and that's where i have the opportunity to hit the "rock"-- however fake or on a wall it is!, but as soon as i get better (btw, how DO i know when i've gotten good enough to start climbing outdoors), i'm planning on hitting the rocks outside just as much. The only shoes i've yet to like-- actually, i love them for their comfort-- are the Scarpa reflexes-- i'm short (5'2") so it gives me enough support to be able to stand on my very tippy-toes and JUMP for those reaches, and are a lot more comfortable than the 5.10 Spires i started on... i'm very much a fan of the down-toed last and don't mind putting my feet through too much binding; i also have small feet (am. 5/ eu. 37)... but i'm such a poor college student that though i'd be willing to pay the hundred dollars or so for the scarpa reflexes, i figure-- if i'll be investing i might as well invest anyway, right? Would this be a good shoe for the long-term, or will i eventually grow to dislike it as i get better (hopefully); and on the more economic side, which do you think would be a better shoe: the mythos or reflexes, because though i can't find reflexes anywhere for less than a hundred, barrabes.com sells mythos for sixty-seventy...
thanks!
[ This Message was edited by: backtrack on 2002-02-13 15:00 ]
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rck_climber
Feb 13, 2002, 11:08 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2001
Posts: 1010
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Welcome to the family !
As far as your questions...
1. I think you'll be happy with those shoes as your ability increases and you begin to crank harder. They're a pretty high-end shoe anyway (with the cambered last) so you should have no problems with them later as you move up the ratings.
2. I've not seen the Reflexes for cheap anywhere, but there are some nice cambered-toe shoes at Sportextreme. I also saw some Scarpa Turbos in your size on sale at REI for just under $100 - great deal for these top-of-the-line shoes.
3. As far as when it's time to head outdoors... it's all a personal decision. Most of the guys I take for the first time, I take directly outdoors - in fact, they never see the inside of a gym until it's either dumping rain or snow. Just make sure you link up with an experienced outdoor climber and have at it. Good luck.
Hope this helps and, again, welcome.
Mick
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dustinap
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Feb 13, 2002, 11:36 PM
Post #3 of 3
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I LOVE MY MYthos for INSIDE and OUTSIDE.
I'd buy them very small though, they will stretch alot. I am about a size 9 shoe[mens] and buy a 7 mythos. They're VERY painful at first, but now I can be in them all day with no problems.
Hit outside rock right away. You may find you climb better outside then inside!
What gym are you climbing at also? What area do you live in?
BTW, always try shoes on first. The mythos fit me very good, but they might not fit your foot well.
Also, spend money, and really buy the gear you want. Don't buy a cheapo harness because you can upgrade it later. I learned this kind of stuff the hard way.
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