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moose_droppings
Apr 6, 2010, 5:05 AM
Post #51 of 59
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thechef wrote: Honestly though, how often do you run out of rope on an established route?
Honestly, I rarely climb established routes. Been there done them. When I'm able I spend most of my time chasing down remote Conn routes in the hills, I'm trying my best to get on every one of them. Chasing them down leads me to many other unclimbed (as far as I know) routes in the BC.
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thechef
Apr 6, 2010, 5:14 AM
Post #52 of 59
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Fair enough,
I carry the kitchen sink on FA's, including cord, and surely if in an alpine setting knott having that 20 feet of 7 mm could mean your ass!
Too much for me on a standard multi-pitch route, but it has it's application.
Good discussion here.
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marc801
Apr 6, 2010, 5:27 AM
Post #53 of 59
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moose_droppings wrote: What do you use if you've already used up all the rope and all your slings just to get where you are? Tic toc tic toc tic toc.
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moose_droppings
Apr 6, 2010, 5:28 AM
Post #54 of 59
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marc801 wrote: moose_droppings wrote: What do you use if you've already used up all the rope and all your slings just to get where you are? Tic toc tic toc tic toc. You seem to keep running out of rope. You're probably belaying in the wrong spots.
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patto
Apr 6, 2010, 5:32 AM
Post #55 of 59
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Doesn't change the fact that you are attempting to solve a minor problem of the cordalette (imperfect equalisation) and replacing it with a major problem (introducing the possibity of shock loading).
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moose_droppings
Apr 6, 2010, 6:08 AM
Post #56 of 59
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Is 3" to much shock loading, where's the cutoff drop length? A small drop drop with four knots in 18-20 of cord still dangerously shock loading?
Do you suppose every cordelette that gets tied is perfectly orientated and has no extension if a leg blows?
I'm not trying to convince you to use it, never have, I accept that and have always been past that for anyone not interested. Please accept your not going to convince me there's never a use for it. I'll use the rope, cordelette or whatever I find simplest at the time and place to anchor in with.
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shu2kill
Apr 9, 2010, 3:47 PM
Post #57 of 59
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ptlong wrote: Josh, it isn't an equalette. You can call it that but the fact remains that it is a sliding X. If you read Long's book you would remember that he clearly distinguishes between the two both in form and performance. Your method was already discussed previously in at least one of those threads. Whether or not it is the way to go is a matter of opinion. For what it's worth I don't like your approach.
isnt an Equallete basically a sliding X with limiter knots?? from the link someone posted before, i got this:
In reply to: Sliding X: ................... If you are worried about extension in your Sliding X, then you can simply add overhand limiting knots to each leg of the Sliding X............
In reply to: Equalette: ........ To tie an equalette with a sling, simply tie two overhand limiting knots in the sling, one on each side of the center of the sling. The limiting knots should be several inches from the center to allow equalization. Clip each end of the sling to your pro, and clip yourself into the master point of the anchor with 2 locking carabiners, one ‘biner on each strand of the master point (as shown above). If you only have one locking ‘biner to attach yourself to the master point, then put a twist into one of the strands of the master point, and connect yourself as you would to a Sliding X........
so what i understand is that a 2 piece sliding X with limmiting knots is the same as a 2 piece equalette/ with 3 or 4 pieces, its not the same, but for 2, it is. o am i wrong??
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acorneau
Apr 9, 2010, 4:02 PM
Post #58 of 59
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shu2kill wrote: isnt an Equallete basically a sliding X with limiter knots?? from the link someone posted before, i got this: {snip} so what i understand is that a 2 piece sliding X with limmiting knots is the same as a 2 piece equalette/ with 3 or 4 pieces, its not the same, but for 2, it is. o am i wrong??
Yes, the middle is basically a sliding X with limiter knots, but the part you're missing is the Equalette has clove hitches on the individual pieces.
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shu2kill
Apr 9, 2010, 4:55 PM
Post #59 of 59
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acorneau wrote: Yes, the middle is basically a sliding X with limiter knots, but the part you're missing is the Equalette has clove hitches on the individual pieces.
thanx. since the text says:
In reply to: To tie an equalette with a sling, simply tie two overhand limiting knots in the sling, one on each side of the center of the sling. The limiting knots should be several inches from the center to allow equalization. Clip each end of the sling to your pro, and clip yourself into the master point of the anchor with 2 locking carabiners,
i thought it was basically describing a 2 piece sliding X. but on the pics i can see the hitches, i assume this is to equalize individually all the legs??
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