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floof
Mar 28, 2002, 6:50 AM
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First off, thanks to pelliott for posting the url to an issue of the UIAA journal for mountaineering and climbing:
http://www.uiaa.ch/journal/20003.pdf
It's good reading. My question is about page 12. The article is called "About Ageing of Climbing Ropes". I was surprised with some of its statements. The article says that modern ropes are UV-stabilized and UV radiation may dull the color of rope but it causes no neglible damage. It also says that properly stored 10-15 year old ropes will still hold a UIAA fall. While I don't have enough info to refute the author's claims, I'll err on the side of caution and follow my rope's instructions regarding retirement.
But I was wondering about all the stuff I've read about UV being bad for webbing and ropes and retiring both after 1-4 years regardless of use. Does anyone have any info that might refute the article's claims?
TIA,
* * * John
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addiroids
Mar 28, 2002, 7:17 AM
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I have heard that about 200 climbing days is plenty for webbing as long as it isn't all chewed up in the first place. You always see those rock hard, bleached slings on rap stations. I'm sure you wouldn't want those on your rack. So there is a limit. And ropes the same. But usually your rope is ready for retirement before that anyways.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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apollodorus
Mar 28, 2002, 7:47 AM
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Addiroids, good call on the rock-hard and bleached slings. I like to use my own, even on raps, thank you.
But, how about this: yachtmen (a far more dangerous sport, according to the Numbers) prefer to use polyester for their sails and ropes. Why? It stretches less and lasts better in the sunlight. Their sails, in particular, would eat schnitt in a hurry if they were made of nylon.
HMM....
What about using polyester slings for belays and rap anchors???? Polyester yacht rope for static haul/fixing lines (Mammoth Terrace Death Jugs)???
All I know is, them sailor boys like polyester because the sun doesn't kill it so fast.
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miagi
Mar 28, 2002, 5:20 PM
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Thats a good idea apollo. I think im going to look up the specs (if i can find them) on the web for the polyester webbing.
As for you floof, I do know what your talking about and I was confused too about
the sunlight issue.
This is from the first post "When Should I retire my Rope" On Tradgirl.com
From the president of UIAA he released this statement that was reiterated in the post:
Quote: In a report on dynamic climbing ropes Pitt Schubert, President of the UIAA safety commission found the following....
6. UV radiation does not damage ropes. Nylon is UV stabilised and only the colour will be lost.
9. The suggested life span of 10 years which has been given for ropes is to help the user determine life span . However, after contact with ICI it was found that although after 10 years there was a measurable degradation in nylon (not just in ropes, but all nylon textiles) ageing itself would not cause a rope to break, unless it was loaded over a sharp edge.
So, they say that UV rays cannot hurt the rope. But rope can age and when it does, it degrades nylon but only will break unless loaded over a sharp edge. I dont know if this guys is right but this is what he said.
[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-03-28 09:21 ]
[ This Message was edited by: miagi on 2002-03-28 09:24 ]
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woodse
Mar 28, 2002, 5:34 PM
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Why do the rope mnfrs say that UV DOES hurt your rope and to minimize exposure?
woodsE
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howitzer
Mar 28, 2002, 6:28 PM
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Funny, when I looked at that link I was asking the same question, since my rope is about 5 years old but in great condition, as I didn't get used for about 2 years and was in a dark closet while I was working for a climbing place using THEIR ropes! According to that article age is not a factor, as the inner core of the rope does not degrade over time if not being used. (I think that was the jist of it). I think the 4 year limit is an average for ropes that get used an 'average' amount per year. In other words, does not apply to all ropes. As for the UV thing, my guess is that some damage must be done - consider what happens to human skin under UV radiation! I think that's where the warning came from, but now according to UIAA, UV is OK and not AS harmful as once thought to ropes.
That's how I understand it....
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djpuckle
Mar 28, 2002, 6:53 PM
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So, I can spray WD40 on my rope, but I can't pee on it?
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howitzer
Mar 28, 2002, 7:22 PM
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Your pee has UV radiation in it? Or does your can of WD40.... You may want to get that checked out....
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addiroids
Mar 28, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Nylon is a polymer with plasticizers embedded in it that makes it more dynamic. UV Radiation makes these plasticizers evaporate more quickly. Therefore the integrity of the rope degrades. Any materials engineers back me up on this one??
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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