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ducfast
May 7, 2015, 5:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2011
Posts: 10
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How many of you dress and set your knots, if you don't know what I mean by dressing and setting a knot, dressing is when you have no twists through out the whole knot, setting is when you are taking all the slack so that you can not pull more then a quarter of inch out of the knot by pulling on the running end or free end of the rope?
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JimTitt
May 8, 2015, 6:41 AM
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Registered: Aug 7, 2008
Posts: 1002
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Any climbing knot that requires perfectly dressing to be functional is useless in the dark or a severe snow storm. Therefore we use knots which work no matter how they are tied.
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cracklover
May 8, 2015, 12:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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The only knot I always dress and set is my edk before rapping. I don't want to mess around with that.
GO
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dagibbs
May 8, 2015, 2:16 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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I use a figure-8 retrace for tie-in; I don't tend to dress it, but do tend to set it.
I often use an over-hand knot in a sling for power-points; if setting this for a top-rope I will dress and set the knot, and often leave a carabiner through the knot as a grab point for untying. For a multi-pitch anchor, I'm less likely to worry about dressing and setting the knot on the anchor as I do not expect it to be weighted as often. I won't leave it floppy, but won't dress it as carefully.
Clove hitch for attaching to an anchor or similar: can it even be undressed? Yes, I'll set it.
Over-hand knot (EDK) for rappel: I will set it; but not worry about dressing it.
Daisy-chaining my slings: dressed but not set.
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