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spiesbach22
Mar 5, 2013, 2:20 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2011
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I'm planning a trip up the Direct Exum ridge on the Grand this summer and I'm trying to get some beta on gear. For anyone who's climbed the route before did you find that you needed climbing shoes or did you wear approach shoes the whole time.. I've seen mixed feelings on this and was wondering if someone with first hand experience could shed some light..
Second We're planning on going the last weekend in July does anyone know if we'll need an crampons or ice axes at this point to cross some snow fields or by this time in the year is the route pretty clear of snow/ beaten out so bad that you can walk it in hiking/approach shoes.
Any insight would be great thanks.
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edge
Mar 5, 2013, 2:37 PM
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I can only speak for the Upper Exum, which I was completely comfortable leading the whole thing in first generation approach shoes. If you are comfortable leading 5.7 in your approach shoes then I don't think you'll have any problem with the Direct.
As for the snowfields, it depends. Anything can happen to change conditions right up to the day of the climb. I summited in mid September and according to the rangers we were the first up after a major storm a week and a half before. I crossed the snowfields in my approach shoes and broke out an ice ax to plunge in the shaft (giggedy) as I kicked small edges for my feet. I had crampons in the pack, but they really weren't necessary.
Conditions for you could be completely different to either end of the spectrum.
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csproul
Mar 5, 2013, 2:55 PM
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I wore climbing shoes for the lower Exum. I think I kept them on for the Upper, but would have been ok if I'd put on approach shoes. There is at least a pitch or two of edgy face climbing on the lower and I would not have felt comfortable with approach shoes, but I'm sure there are people out there who would. Couldn't tell you about snow/ice. I did it in August and it was totally clear, but still a pretty cold start.
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olderic
Mar 5, 2013, 6:37 PM
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I've done the upper 4 times - twice after "approaching" via the lower. I've done the upper with all differrent types of footwear - approach shoes, real climbing shoes and mountain boots - no problem (although for the one move on the fritciipn pitch its nice to have something that smears well). For the lower I wouldn't be comfortable leading in anything but ral climbing shoes - but that is just me.
Only God - or the diety of your choice - could tell you today what the conditions will be like when you go. But on the average you would be able to get by without axes or crampons.
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rgold
Mar 6, 2013, 4:03 AM
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I've done the complete Exum Ridge from valley to summit and back (twice) in Robbins Shoes. In June kicking steps up to the lower saddle and glissading all the way down to the Meadows.
Robbins Shoes at the top of the Black Face
The nearest thing nowadays, is the La Sportiva Ganda. Pricey, but the ideal Teton shoe. Fit 'em right and you can do everything in them, hiking, snow fields, hard rock cllmbing, everything.
For snow fields, a good set of gaiters is a must. There is a high-top version, but I think these are better.
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dlintz
Mar 6, 2013, 5:12 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
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I did the Upper a few years ago. In retrospect I would've been fine staying in my approach shoes (FiveTen Camp Four) but in some spots the rock was very smooth and slick and I was glad to have my comfy trad shoes along. In the interest of getting to the summit quickly, I left them on until we topped out.
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spiesbach22
Mar 6, 2013, 4:27 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2011
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Thanks for the insight... i figured climbing shoes would be a good idea...
Now the real debate begins..." any reconciliations on approach shoes.. I climb at the gunks alot and i figured they would be nicer than my sneakers when scrambling up those rocky approach trails and they'd be really nice in the Tetons so I think I'm going to pick up some.. whats your favorite pair? and i'm looking for something on the cheaper side.. the la sportivas are way more than i'd like to spend.. but they do look really nice
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