eflaaten
Aug 20, 2013, 8:02 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2010
Posts: 5
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Hi there, just want to get some thoughts on my routine for setting anchors etc. on multi pitch roped solo.
My setup: I use the Edelrid Eddy, rope in my back pack running over my shoulder (through a biner).
Routine:
Say I've already made the first anchor, ground level and I'm about to set anchor for 2nd pitch. I would:
1. place first piece for downwards pull high up (to leave space/cracks below for the later pieces for upwards pull)
2. clip myself to the piece so I'm secure while building rest of the anchor
3. clip my rope to the piece (really necessary?)
4. set the rest of the pieces for downward pull anchor, clip a long sling/cordelette, equalize, overhand, clip myself to the master point.
5. Clove hitch rope to master point. Clip it out of the piece in step 3
6. Take the rope out of Eddy, and re-attach Eddy to the rope going down to the previous anchor
7. Hang my back pack and climbing shoes at the anchor. Put on approach shoes.
8. Transfer weight to Eddy, unclip myself form master point, rappel down using Eddy with no prusik or backup, pass and leave the heavy pieces for the way up (I take the light ones, to create longer non stop jumar sections)
9. At the bottom, switch to jumars and tear down the anchor
10. Jug up, make approx total 3 back up knots to biner on belay loop, sort the pieces properly to harness etc. as I remove them to not have to re-sort at the top
11. At top, clip myself to master point. Create anchor for upwards pull, use screamer backed up by butterflied slack of rope. Klemheist the rope going from the upwards pull anchor to the best of the higher downwards pull pieces to keep rope and anchor in upwards position (that piece will act like the first pro)
12. Stack rope in backpack, making 1-2 butterfly knots for safety (plus knot at the end) Put backpack on
13. Detach jumars, hang them at anchor, and reattach Eddy to the rope from new upwards anchor. Pull tight to weight the Eddy, and unclip myself from old master point
14. Remove cordelette and pieces except the best piece from the old downwards pull anchor
15. Switch shoes and climb next pitch
Sorry if my explanation is bad, but I'd appreciate any input on the routine. It kinda works, but I could maybe streamline it or do some things better?
Thanks!
(This post was edited by eflaaten on Aug 20, 2013, 8:12 PM)
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