|
clee03m
Aug 6, 2013, 6:52 PM
Post #1 of 22
(18201 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 785
|
Hi, it has been a while since I have looked into roped soloing. I am looking to do some one pitch climbs both leading and top roping. What would be the best way? I had been considering a silent partner before and own a grigri. Any new technology that came out in the last 5 years or so?
|
|
|
|
|
ironmike
Aug 8, 2013, 11:55 PM
Post #3 of 22
(18038 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 36
|
Get the Rock Exotica Soloist. This This is your best option for TR and hands free leading.
|
|
|
|
|
meanandugly
Aug 9, 2013, 12:50 AM
Post #4 of 22
(18031 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312
|
ironmike wrote: Get the Rock Exotica Soloist. This This is your best option for TR and hands free leading.
|
|
|
|
|
distantThunder
Aug 9, 2013, 2:38 AM
Post #5 of 22
(18022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2012
Posts: 43
|
I looked into various options. I will be doing some solo climbing next week.
I have an old soloist. hate the thing! want one - I may give mine away. reason: the rope simply does not feed well thru the hardware. by the time you manually drag the rope thru the solist - you ask yourself "what am I doing this for?". I wonder why the designers did not ask themselves the same question.
meanwhile ... I will use the simplest system in the world. pretty much infallible. I will just set a couple of independent ropes on the route with loops tied about 8-10 feet apart. If I adjust one of the ropes, so the loops offset, I can clip in for every 4 feet that I climb upwards. so I only need two climbing cords tied into my harness with a biner on each one and I am done. independently backed up and I didn't need to spend $$$ on gear.
the main disadvantage of my primeval technique: you can't rapp down the ropes with all the loops tied into them.
the main advantage: you have to be a complete idiot to screw this up. you are always connected by one attachment to a rope at all times, and usually two.
dT
(This post was edited by distantThunder on Aug 9, 2013, 2:42 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Aug 9, 2013, 5:02 AM
Post #6 of 22
(18006 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
distantThunder wrote: I have an old soloist. hate the thing! want one - I may give mine away. reason: the rope simply does not feed well thru the hardware. by the time you manually drag the rope thru the solist - you ask yourself "what am I doing this for?". I wonder why the designers did not ask themselves the same question.
Are you talking about using the soloist for top rope soloing?
If so I agree and think there are better devices for that.
For lead soloing after a ways up you can rebelay the weight of the rope hitched via an old shoelace or small cord and tied to a piece of pro which helps it feed better through the latter part of the pitch.
|
|
|
|
|
distantThunder
Aug 9, 2013, 2:22 PM
Post #7 of 22
(17967 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2012
Posts: 43
|
moose-droppings
yes - you're right.
if I do solo climbing - I only ever do it with top ropes. I don't do lead soloing. Since I have a family, I make a personal decision not to take that risk. I have found that the Soloist does not run freely enough when doing top rope solo climbing.
dT
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Aug 9, 2013, 6:14 PM
Post #8 of 22
(17947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
distantThunder wrote: I looked into various options. I will be doing some solo climbing next week. I have an old soloist. hate the thing! want one - I may give mine away. reason: the rope simply does not feed well thru the hardware. by the time you manually drag the rope thru the solist - you ask yourself "what am I doing this for?". I wonder why the designers did not ask themselves the same question. meanwhile ... I will use the simplest system in the world. pretty much infallible. I will just set a couple of independent ropes on the route with loops tied about 8-10 feet apart. If I adjust one of the ropes, so the loops offset, I can clip in for every 4 feet that I climb upwards. so I only need two climbing cords tied into my harness with a biner on each one and I am done. independently backed up and I didn't need to spend $$$ on gear. the main disadvantage of my primeval technique: you can't rapp down the ropes with all the loops tied into them. the main advantage: you have to be a complete idiot to screw this up. you are always connected by one attachment to a rope at all times, and usually two. dT
PS-the designers primarily designed the Soloist as a solo-lead device. At the time it came out there were few (if any options) and it was definitely one of the best available...until the Silent Partner came out. It was not primarily intended to be used as a TR device. IMO, it works well for it's intended use (leading)and works just ok for top-roping. However, there are now better systems for either leading or top-roping. I have yet to find one system that excels at both.
(This post was edited by csproul on Aug 9, 2013, 6:37 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
meanandugly
Aug 9, 2013, 6:52 PM
Post #9 of 22
(17939 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312
|
distantThunder wrote: moose-droppings yes - you're right. if I do solo climbing - I only ever do it with top ropes. I don't do lead soloing. Since I have a family, I make a personal decision not to take that risk. I have found that the Soloist does not run freely enough when doing top rope solo climbing. dT
Mine runs great for lead solo...for TR solo I just use a grigri.
|
|
|
|
|
brews
Aug 14, 2013, 11:50 PM
Post #10 of 22
(17810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2002
Posts: 41
|
I ve been using a grigri (original) with a modification to attach the bottom to a chest harness to keep it vertically oriented. I only TR with this and almost exclusively at a little 25' crag near town. The nice thing about this is you get to the top and rapel down on the grigri, so for a short climb its ideal. No disengaging the ascender or soloist. Much more efficient. & when I climb alone I just want to go get pumped and leave. Been doing this for years with no problem except feeding is less smooth when its wildly overhanging, but I think that's the case for any device.
Ran into someone at the crag last year that thought I was nuts to use this. Its caught me lots of times as I'll run laps until my arms give out. Anyone had a bad experience with the modified grigri?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
sangoma2
Aug 15, 2013, 8:22 PM
Post #12 of 22
(17690 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2011
Posts: 13
|
I use a reverse in guide mode for lead, works like a bomb !!!
I've used a gri gri , modified gri gri , and a few various other methods, but back on my reverse, no moving parts !!!
I use a Petzl croll for TR , would use a mini traction if I had one.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Aug 15, 2013, 9:08 PM
Post #13 of 22
(17680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
sangoma2 wrote: I use a reverse in guide mode for lead, works like a bomb !!! I've used a gri gri , modified gri gri , and a few various other methods, but back on my reverse, no moving parts !!! I use a Petzl croll for TR , would use a mini traction if I had one.
Well, that's the beauty of it - everyone has to come up with what works for them. Your solution doesn't really do it for me due to a concern around novel/eccentric stresses in this application of the device, but hey, great if it works for you. No device or method is optimal or without drawbacks.
|
|
|
|
|
sangoma2
Aug 15, 2013, 10:06 PM
Post #14 of 22
(17669 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2011
Posts: 13
|
Healyje , you say "novel/eccentric stresses in this application" could you please expand on this , I don't wana die just yet.
Chris
|
|
|
|
|
PeterJones
Aug 19, 2013, 10:16 AM
Post #16 of 22
(17487 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2013
Posts: 1
|
Indeed :)
|
|
|
|
|
mikeyboyaz
Aug 19, 2013, 6:03 PM
Post #17 of 22
(17445 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2013
Posts: 10
|
sangoma2 wrote: Healyje , you say " novel/eccentric stresses in this application" could you please expand on this , I don't wana die just yet. Chris
I'm trying to figure out that aspect too as Petzl has defined solo TR with a Micro Traxion and Jumar style device, with alternate devices of minicenders and their derivatives.
http://www.petzl.com/...limbing/introduction
|
|
|
|
|
sangoma2
Aug 20, 2013, 7:44 PM
Post #18 of 22
(17374 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2011
Posts: 13
|
I think Healy was referring to my use of a reverso as a lead solo device and not to the top rope solo devices
still need to try an "Eddy"
(This post was edited by sangoma2 on Aug 20, 2013, 9:31 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
mikeyboyaz
Aug 20, 2013, 9:35 PM
Post #19 of 22
(17354 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2013
Posts: 10
|
sangoma2 wrote: I think Healy was referring to my use of a reverso as a lead solo device and not to the top rope solo devices still need to try an "Edey"
EDDY ;)
http://www.edelrid.de/...s/hardware/eddy.html
woah... fast typo correction...nice
(This post was edited by mikeyboyaz on Aug 20, 2013, 9:36 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
stephenreynoso
Feb 9, 2014, 8:44 AM
Post #21 of 22
(16231 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2006
Posts: 6
|
I use my minitrax perfect for top roping
|
|
|
|
|
dac33
Mar 12, 2014, 10:32 AM
Post #22 of 22
(15757 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 9, 2012
Posts: 44
|
clee03m wrote: Hi, it has been a while since I have looked into roped soloing. I am looking to do some one pitch climbs both leading and top roping. What would be the best way? I had been considering a silent partner before and own a grigri. Any new technology that came out in the last 5 years or so?
Read the soloing chapter in http://www.amazon.com/...and+kirkpatrick+high
|
|
|
|
|
|
IMG_4690 - Copy.JPG
