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Ronadon
Feb 12, 2010, 6:42 PM
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I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym and most of the lead routes start around 5.10. I definitely don't feel ready to lead yet but I would like to hear other peoples experiences as to when they started. The gym near me teaches classes on it so I will probably try and learn there when the time comes. We have a really a nice place to climb outdoor here and it's bolted so it would be good to learn on eventually. You can TR it also so again no real push to learn leading right now but it is something that looks to be a lot of fun. When did you guys start?
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mar_leclerc
Feb 12, 2010, 6:46 PM
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When I was 10 years old I was like, 'leading is obviously more badass that TR'ing.. plus it counts as a real redpoint...' so I asked the gym owner to teach me and he did.
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silascl
Feb 12, 2010, 7:23 PM
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I took a lead class in the gym when I was top roping 5.10a-b. I didn't enjoy leading until I became much more efficient on steeper routes, and built up more endurance. At least in my local gym the average lead route is longer and steeper than the average top rope route.
If most of the gym routes you want to lead are 10s, then you should be able to top rope 10s before you start leading. A few mock leads to practice clipping and footwork around the rope won't hurt either.
As for leading outside, I started shortly after leading indoors. I still suck at it though.
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jcrew
Feb 12, 2010, 8:35 PM
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Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym ........We have a really a nice place to climb outdoor here and it's bolted
is there anything at your outdoor crag that's like 5.6, 5.7? i'd get someone more experienced to rope up with, belay slave and TR all the routes they want to do, then, under their tutilage and supervision, take a shot on something below your limit.
i started leading right away when i got into climbing. i was sketchy, took forever to complete a route, backed down a bunch, took some whips, survived. go for it, that's what all the shinny gear is for.
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west_by_god_virginia
Feb 12, 2010, 8:47 PM
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jcrew wrote: Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym ........We have a really a nice place to climb outdoor here and it's bolted is there anything at your outdoor crag that's like 5.6, 5.7? i'd get someone more experienced to rope up with, belay slave and TR all the routes they want to do, then, under their tutilage and supervision, take a shot on something below your limit. i started leading right away when i got into climbing. i was sketchy, took forever to complete a route, backed down a bunch, took some whips, survived. go for it, that's what all the shinny gear is for.
+1
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clews
Feb 12, 2010, 8:54 PM
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i started leading after a couple of months of climbing. I hadn't done much rope work until then, mostly just bouldering.
I was tr'ing 10's and went outdoors with some experienced friends and started leading 7's and 8's until i got effecient at clipping then i started pushing myself
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granite_grrl
Feb 12, 2010, 8:58 PM
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I bought a rack at got at 'er. There were tons of route open and available to me going that route, considering we're talking about the gym and grades this isn't something the OP is considering, but it's a worthwhile step that a lot of new climbers tend to skip.
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mr8615
Feb 12, 2010, 9:03 PM
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I wish I would've started leading right away and was never taught the 'stigma' about leading being harder and scarier. In an ideal situation, I would've just learned that leading is how you go up and learning to do it safely is how you learn to climb. Could've skipped the mental training wheels all together.
So I'm trying to say, go outside, get on something you would put someone on during their first day out, and lead it. You already understand the movement and techniques, get with someone who can make sure you're not going to kill yourself. Decide that you're physically capable of climbing without falling, regardless of protection systems, and do it.
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MS1
Feb 12, 2010, 10:06 PM
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Having done it myself, the gym is a shitty place to learn to lead. To find safe falls, you have to seek out really steep angles; if your gym lets you lead on vertical terrain, it's easy to screw up your ankle if you fall and catch a hold. I generally find indoor leading much scarier than leading outdoor sport climbs, at the same grade.
My advice (and it's how I've taught several friends to lead on bolts): Get outside on something super-easy. Emphasize low-angle with lots of stances. If you can find a bolted 5.5, this would be ideal. Short is good, too. Top-rope it once, and have a friend show you what not to do (i.e., back-clipping, z-clipping, rope-behind-leg, edge-loading biners, etc.). Also have them teach you how to set-up and how to clean a top-rope on bolted anchors. Then just get on the sharp end and do it.
Once you've got the mechanics down smoothly, take it to grades at which you will fall, but make sure the falls will be clean.
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LostinMaine
Feb 12, 2010, 10:11 PM
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Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym and most of the lead routes start around 5.10. I definitely don't feel ready to lead yet but I would like to hear other peoples experiences as to when they started. The gym near me teaches classes on it so I will probably try and learn there when the time comes. We have a really a nice place to climb outdoor here and it's bolted so it would be good to learn on eventually. You can TR it also so again no real push to learn leading right now but it is something that looks to be a lot of fun. When did you guys start?
You lead after you've followed. Hopefully many pitches. (advice tidbit #1)
When I started "leading" I didn't know there was anything else. It was just called "climbing." Grab a handful of nuts, preferably belonging to a good belayer, get on a gnarly 5.4 or 5.5, and go for it. (advice tidbit #2)
I know people who have happily lived their entire rock climbing life without ever leading a 5.10 on gear. Waiting for the gym to tell you it's OK to lead sucks. Get on it! You'll be way happier leading a super easy route than TRing a rad 5.10 in the gym (advice tidbit #3)
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mhix13
Feb 12, 2010, 11:10 PM
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what everyone else said. somethign else you could try: if u know someone who trad. leads easier stuff (5.5-5.8) you can just pull the rope when they're done plugging the gear and you can lead it like a sport route... just clip the protection. A lot of easier routes are less-than-ideal to take a fall on though...
Just a thought if you have trad. climbers in your area.
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yokese
Feb 12, 2010, 11:31 PM
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Contrary to the opinion of previous posters, I think that the gym can be a good place to learn how to lead, even though I learned outdoors and I had to lead from day one (both my partner and I were absolute noobs with a lot of theory in our minds after countless hours of reading and practicing knots, a second hand rope, six brand new runners, two figure-eights and the cheapest harnesses and shoes we could find).
Anyways, in a gym you probably can find a wall steep enough and protection close enough to guarantee a clean and controlled fall. Even though the leading routes are normally 5.10a and above, nothing prevents you to use as many holds as you want to practice.
On the other hand, most of the easier routes outdoors are frequently ledgy and the pro is more spaced. Yes, you can learn how to clip on those routes, but you probably don't wanna fall in them.
Knowing when you can and you can't fall is probably one of the most important lessons to learn. Most of the time, the easy routes are a very bad place to fall.
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jcrew
Feb 13, 2010, 12:59 AM
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mhix13 wrote: trad. leads easier stuff (5.5-5.8)... ... ...pull the rope when they're done plugging the gear and you can lead it like a sport route... just clip the protection. .
5.8 trad. can be (or seem) a lot harder than 5.9 gym
this seems like bad advice. when a rope is pulled through gear, it can unset pieces or move placements into different, less secure positions. also, the original leader can run it out in a spot where you might want some gear. i'd never lead on pre-placed gear without being able to asses the placements and replace if necessairy. and i'd carry a few pieces in case i wasn't as bold/studly as the original leader.
(This post was edited by jcrew on Feb 13, 2010, 1:06 AM)
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TarHeelEMT
Feb 13, 2010, 8:03 PM
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Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym and most of the lead routes start around 5.10. I definitely don't feel ready to lead yet but I would like to hear other peoples experiences as to when they started. The gym near me teaches classes on it so I will probably try and learn there when the time comes. We have a really a nice place to climb outdoor here and it's bolted so it would be good to learn on eventually. You can TR it also so again no real push to learn leading right now but it is something that looks to be a lot of fun. When did you guys start?
Gyms usually have a grade minimum for leading to keep people who don't have a clue from trying it. That's a liability thing, rather than a statement that you need to be able to climb X grade in order to lead.
I started leading trad when my maximum gym climb was a 5.7, maybe a 5.8 on a good day. Go find an outdoor climb that well within your ability and go for it (provided you know how to lead safely).
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jeepnphreak
Feb 13, 2010, 8:35 PM
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5.9 is good enough. If you know how to bulid an anchor and know how to clip draws to a rope and bolt hanger ...
Find some one that know the out side routs and get you on a 5.7 or so.
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notapplicable
Feb 13, 2010, 11:41 PM
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Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym and most of the lead routes start around 5.10. I definitely don't feel ready to lead yet but I would like to hear other peoples experiences as to when they started. The gym near me teaches classes on it so I will probably try and learn there when the time comes. We have a really a nice place to climb outdoor here and it's bolted so it would be good to learn on eventually. You can TR it also so again no real push to learn leading right now but it is something that looks to be a lot of fun. When did you guys start?
ASAP
While the bulk of the bolts are on the steeper walls and most of the routes on those walls are .10 and up, there are plenty of .7-.9 mixed in. Take the leap, it'll be worth it. I promise.
edited to add: I learned to lead a manchester and I think it's probably a better venue than the gym for that purpose. Just keep it simple and safe and you'll never look back.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Feb 13, 2010, 11:46 PM)
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potreroed
Feb 14, 2010, 2:05 AM
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The second time I climbed I led the route I followed the first time I climbed. Find a belayer you trust and go for it.
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oldsalt
Feb 14, 2010, 3:37 AM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Gyms usually have a grade minimum for leading to keep people who don't have a clue from trying it. That's a liability thing, rather than a statement that you need to be able to climb X grade in order to lead. I started leading trad when my maximum gym climb was a 5.7, maybe a 5.8 on a good day. Go find an outdoor climb that well within your ability and go for it (provided you know how to lead safely).
This is the truth for some gyms, but for others it is a reflection of the belief that leaders must be muy macho hombres. I learned to lead after one year of climbing, and only at 5.5-5.7. I took the test on a 5.7 route in the gym. Our gym's climbing director at that time believed that leading was a function of experience and climbing within your own limits.
At 60 years old, I will probably never climb 5.10 and I have no desire to do so. That contributes to why I won't climb 5.10 in the first place. I love to spend a day doing five or six pitches of 5.5 - 5.7 on gear or mixed sport. I am probably not the only climber in America who feels this way.
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mheyman
Feb 14, 2010, 4:50 AM
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notapplicable wrote: Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym and most of the lead routes start around 5.10. I definitely don't feel ready to lead yet but I would like to hear other peoples experiences as to when they started...When did you guys start? ASAP ...While the bulk of the bolts are on the steeper walls and most of the routes on those walls are .10 and up, there are plenty of .7-.9 mixed in. Take the leap, it'll be worth it. I promise...Just keep it simple and safe and you'll never look back.
Ditto: ASAP - if you want to.
All it takes is one route that you can lead.
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kane_schutzman
Feb 14, 2010, 8:18 AM
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Stop bein a pussy and tie in alreaady, shit
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Ronadon
Feb 14, 2010, 3:39 PM
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Thanks for all of the responses guys this is really awesome and really helpful. I definitely want to try and start leading ASAP now. I'm going to see if I can find someone to teach me in the area. Especially once it warms up here there will probably be a lot of people at the outdoor spot here. Thanks again guys super stoked on the responses.
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johnwesely
Feb 14, 2010, 9:45 PM
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I went on a month long climbing trip with a new climber last summer. I took him climbing a few times before that to teach him the basics. I am pretty sure he lead a route the first time we went out. I started him out on a 5.3 or so, so he could learn what to do, and then he led this fairly stout 5.6. He never had any trouble leading during the trip because that was all he knew.
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seatbeltpants
Feb 14, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Yip, ASAP is the way to go - the longer you put it off the bigger deal it becomes. Learn as soon as you can, and try to avoid top roping from then on.
In my limited experience the sooner you start leading and the more leading you do the better off you will be. It's a bit scary, for sure, but the only way to get past that and make the step up is to suck it up and do it.
Steve
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guangzhou
Feb 15, 2010, 12:48 AM
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Ronadon wrote: I'm curious at what point people learned to lead. I'm climbing right around 5.9 right now at the gym and most of the lead routes start around 5.10.
I learned to climb in the 80's. My buddy and I were self taught and I learned to lead as I was learning to climb. I was leading my second trip out. This was before sport climbing.
My first lead was a 5.4 crack at Goat Rock state Park. I had three nuts and a number 11 hex. I took a practice fall the next week on the same route.
Three years later, the same partner and I wanted to do the SOuth Face of Washington's column. We climbed almost weekend but had never aided. We learned to aid on Mickey's beach Crack, Stintson Beach, but gone now. We then practice a bit on the aid boulder in Yosemite. We slept on dinner ledge, fixed two pitchs above and aided two more the next day before we retreating because of snow. Two weeks later, we decided to do Leaning Tower to work on our aiding system. Had an excellent time.
If you want to lead, go lead. Take advice from those at the cliff who know what they are doing. Watch vedios and read books.
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Feb 15, 2010, 12:49 AM)
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