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kagunkie
Aug 11, 2001, 6:24 AM
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This was coppied from Gunks.com
Its a long story....Read it!
Written by Larry Kniceley (police chief/climber)
Go to www.AudubonPolice.com, click on "Meet the Chief".
My climbing partner Mike and I had just finished CCK and had rapped down to the GT ledge to finish the last rappel. We walked over to the tree at the first belay that starts the second pitch to finish our rappel and get to the ground. A young woman was leaning on the tree belaying her leader up the start of the second pitch and we all engaged in conversation. I was standing on the Updraft corner side of the tree and had just completed tying our two ropes together, put them through the rings, sent them down and was preparing to rap. Mike was standing about two feet behind the tree when the leader stated he was about to "blow out".
He was at "the move" about 15-18 feet above the GT ledge.
Mike and I both looked up to see that he had no pro between himself and his belayer. I remember thinking to myself..."This is going to end up in a rescue". We asked him if he was OK and he said he didn't think he could hold on. Before either of us could react, he came off. He hit the GT ledge facing the cliff, literally folded in half with his butt hitting the ground then vaulted backwards off the GT ledge. He then pulled his belayer away from the tree and off the ledge, the rope running through her hands and over her legs causing severe injury to her hands and burns to her legs...she was now dangling over the edge. Mike immediately grabbed the rope and pulled with all he had, stopping the fall. I reached around the rear of the tree (to keep her from pulling me off), grabbed the anchor sling attached her harness, pulled with all I had and we were able to pull her up and to the rear of the tree. This was very difficult due to the weight of the fallen climber.
It appeared then that she may have been going into shock (her name is Carol, her partner Brian) and I shortened her anchor to the tree as the dead weight was still pulling her off the ledge. I started yelling for Brian to see if he was OK, and got no answer. I then started yelling for help down below and again got no answer. At the time, we were the only ones around that part of the cliffs. After a few minutes, Brian yelled up that he was injured but need to be lowered down as he was having trouble breathing.
Continued below...
[ This Message was edited by: kagunkie on 2001-08-12 22:50 ]
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kagunkie
Aug 11, 2001, 6:26 AM
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. We tried to do so, but were only able to let out about 5-10 feet of rope. Mike was then able to tie his end of the rope off, but the weight was still on Carol. I rapped down to assess Brian's injuries, find out where he was on the cliff, get him down the rest of the way and give him first aid. As I went over the edge, I was astounded to see Brian resting against the cliff about 5 feet from the ground and realized he had probably fallen over 100 feet. He was still complaining that he couldn't breathe. I yelled up to Mike his location and that I would cut the rope to get Brian down the rest of the way and relieve the pressure on Carol and on Brian. I ran over to my pack, got a knife, cut the rope and lowered Brian down so he could breathe and get as comfortable as possible. He had obvious head wounds, a severe left arm injury, numerous lacerations, scrapes, his color was ashen and he was bloody from head to toe. I was able to anchor him to a tree to keep him from moving around and trying to stand. Mike then was able to lower Carol to the ground.
I then began yelling down to the carriage road and after about 5 minutes, was heard by some mountain bikers who summoned help. That help arrived about 10-15 minutes later.
There were many folks who helped us at the cliffs that morning...And, as I don't remember all of your names, I'd like to thank you guys from the bottom of our hearts...You were great. Rich Romano, Rangers Bob and Bill, EMT's, EMS guide (Dave, I believe) and any other climbers who came to our aid that morning. If I forgot anyone I apologize, but thanks...
I'd also like to sincerely thank my climbing partner Mike West...If it hadn't been for his quick thinking, Brian may have hit the ground and possibly sustained more severe injuries or worse.
I called the preserve the next morning and spoke to Ranger Hank. Brian has multiple pelvic fractures, minor head wounds (he was wearing a helmet), severe left arm injury with unknown prognosis, collapsed lung and other internal and external injuries. He is expected to survive his injuries.
Lastly, to Brian and Carol...our thoughts and prayers are with you. We hope all is well and that you are healing quickly. Take Care...Larry and Mike.
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kagunkie
Aug 12, 2001, 1:07 AM
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Larry Kniceley is the police chief of Audubon New Jersey.
Go to www.AudubonPolice.com, click on "Meet the Chief".
I'd like to sincerely thank everyone for their kind words and pm's. But, Mike and I did what I believe any one of you would have done in the same situation....and that is simply helping other climbers in a time of need.
I've had some time to think about the accident since Wednesday and have come to what I believe are some very basic conclusions...
1. In emergency situations, climbers band together like a closely knitted family. They help each other, tend to each others injuries, console one another, give support and in the most dire circumstances...grieve together.
2. We must never take our sport for granted. We must be ever vigilant of our leaders, seconds, belays, anchors, surroundings and weather. And, we must employ all the other proper equipment and techniques we have at our disposal to make each other safe. It will be at a time that we least expect when we make that one little error which could cost us our lives or the lives of those we love.
3. Helmets matter. Period.
4. I realize that I love climbing even more since Wednesday. It could be from a respect perspective or just the fact that I think I woke up. I'd like everyone else to wake up too.
5. Climbers are an awesome group of people. If you doubt that, then see #1.
6. It was only by the grace of God that Brian and Carol survived their ordeal the other day. No other reason. There is a higher power folks, and He was on the Grand Traverse ledge on Wednesday.
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kagunkie
Aug 12, 2001, 1:20 AM
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The previous three posts were written by Larry Kniceley and Id like to thank him for sharing his experience with us. I hope we here on RC.com will learn something from his and his partners efforts during the rescue. People like him and Mike are the ones we should try to be more like!
[ This Message was edited by: kagunkie on 2001-08-11 23:50 ]
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boulder_chalk
Aug 12, 2001, 3:02 AM
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RIGHT ON!!!!!!!!
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coach
Aug 12, 2001, 9:11 PM
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Kagunkie,
You and your partner represent what we all hope is the average climber. One that not only loves climbing but is a concerned member of the climbing community and one that can be counted on. Hope that I have the pleasure of meeting you face to face one day.
Climb On
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kagunkie
Aug 13, 2001, 4:49 PM
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I edited the post to make it more clear. Sorry for the missing "who" part.
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